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Route Description: С стене
First ascent via the North Face of Peak 4630 in the Hissar Range; technically challenging route rated at category 6 difficulty.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent category — technical. 2. Ascent area — Gissar Range. 3. Ascent route — first ascent via the north wall of Peak 4630 m, Zamin-Karor NE. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1450 m, average steepness 74°, length of complex sections 1390 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock 227, ice 41, bolted 11. 6. Total climbing hours — 65. 7. Number of nights on the route — 4, all uncomfortable, semi-reclined, and in hammocks. 8. Team. The ascent was made by a team of instructors from the "Varzob" alpine camp of the CS DSO "Tadzhikistan". 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification:
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit of Zamin-Karor (4525 m) in the Hissar Range, climbed by the "Avangard" team in 1977.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical class.
- Yaghnob. Hissar Range.
- Summit Zamin-Karor 2nd West via N-3 slope, 4525 m.
- Category 5B (rated).
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m; length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 460 m; average steepness — 70–75°.
- Pitons hammered for belay:
Route Description: СЗ стене
Report on the ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor West via the Northwest wall by the Lapshin route, category 5B difficulty level.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Gissar Range
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: P-ya Zapadnaya peak Zamin-Karor 4525, Lapshin route
- Difficulty category: 5B – rated
- Route characteristics: via the northwest wall
- Height difference: 1500 m
- Average steepness: 65–70°
- Length of sections: R1 – 215 m; R2 – 160 m; R3 – 250 m; R4 – 300 m; R5 – 520 m; R6 – 65 m
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of technical ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor via the North-West wall with the analysis of the route and its passage by a group of climbers led by Petko V.I.
Description of technical ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor via the North-West wall with the analysis of the route and its passage by a group of climbers led by Petko V.I.
Route Description: Правой части СЗ стены
Description of the first ascent via the right part of the NW face of Zamin-Kator I Zapadnaya peak (4303 m) in 1979 by a group of climbers led by A. Vinokurov.
II. Climbing Passport.
I. Climb category — TECHNICAL. 2. Northern spur of the Gissar ridge. 3. Summit — ZAMIN KAROR I West, height 4303 m, via the right part of the NW wall. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m. length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m. length of sections with 6th difficulty category — 690 m. average steepness — 80° 6. Pitons hammered:
Route Description: центр. части СЗ стены
Ascent description to Zamki Karor peak (4303 m) via the central part of the NW wall with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.
PASSPORT
of the ascent made in a/l "Varzob" 1976
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Hissar Ridge
- Peak, its height, ascent route 1-3. Zamin-Karor peak (4303 m) via the Central part of the N-3 wall (repeated route)
- Proposed difficulty category — 6B cat. dif.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1303 m, average steepness — 83°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 920 m.
- Number of pitons driven for belaying and creating ITO: rock pitons — 215 pcs and 34 pcs, ice pitons — none, bolt pitons — 7 pcs.
Route Description: центр. части СЗ стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Zamin Karor I via the North-West Wall, difficulty category 6B, climbed in 1977 by a group of climbers led by Valery Poshvin.
- Climbing category: technical
- Climbing area: Gissar Ridge
- Climbing route with summit height: Zamin Karor 1st West via NW ridge, Shramko - 4303 m.
- Proposed difficulty category - 6B
- Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness 73°, length of sections IV–VI cat. diff. 850 m
- Pitons driven: rock 57, ice 0, bolt 0
- Number of travel hours: 29
Route Description: СЗ стене
Report on the ascent of a challenging 4th category rock climbing route on Sanghi-Kaporan mountain in 1979.
44
Climbing Report of the Ukrainian Sports Committee Team at the 4th USSR Alpine Climbing Championship (Technical Class) 1979
Climbing Details
- Climbing Class: Technical
- Climbing Area: Yaghnob Wall
- Peak, its Height, and Climbing Route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the wall.
- Proposed Complexity Category: 6B.
- Route Characteristics: height difference – 1353 m; route length – 1670 m; average steepness – 87°; section lengths: 3 – 200 m, 2 – 10 m, 4 – 250 m, 5 – 640 m, 6 – 570 m.
- Number of Pitons: for belaying:
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the passage of a 6A category difficulty route to the summit I-st Western in the Gissar ridge of Pamir-Alay.
PASSPORT
- Class of technical ascents
- Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range, Yaghnob River area
- Zamin-Karer, I-st Western via N-3 wall (Samoded Route)
- Difficulty category — 6A
- Height difference — 1180 m, route length — 1380 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 1215 m, average steepness of the route — 70 degrees, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 71 degree
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: |
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the climbing route to the summit, completed by the team in February 1994, with a detailed description of the tactics and actions on individual sections.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent type: winter
- Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge
- Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route /
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Height difference:
- wall section: 810 m
- total route length: 1583 m
- wall section length: 983 m