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First ascent via the North Face of Peak 4630 in the Hissar Range; technically challenging route rated at category 6 difficulty.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technical. 2. Ascent area — Gissar Range. 3. Ascent route — first ascent via the north wall of Peak 4630 m, Zamin-Karor NE. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1450 m, average steepness 74°, length of complex sections 1390 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock 227, ice 41, bolted 11. 6. Total climbing hours — 65. 7. Number of nights on the route — 4, all uncomfortable, semi-reclined, and in hammocks. 8. Team. The ascent was made by a team of instructors from the "Varzob" alpine camp of the CS DSO "Tadzhikistan". 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification:

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Description of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit of Zamin-Karor (4525 m) in the Hissar Range, climbed by the "Avangard" team in 1977.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Technical class.
  2. Yaghnob. Hissar Range.
  3. Summit Zamin-Karor 2nd West via N-3 slope, 4525 m.
  4. Category 5B (rated).
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m; length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 460 m; average steepness — 70–75°.
  6. Pitons hammered for belay:
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor West via the Northwest wall by the Lapshin route, category 5B difficulty level.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Gissar Range
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P-ya Zapadnaya peak Zamin-Karor 4525, Lapshin route
  4. Difficulty category: 5B – rated
  5. Route characteristics: via the northwest wall
    • Height difference: 1500 m
    • Average steepness: 65–70°
    • Length of sections: R1 – 215 m; R2 – 160 m; R3 – 250 m; R4 – 300 m; R5 – 520 m; R6 – 65 m
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Description of technical ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor via the North-West wall with the analysis of the route and its passage by a group of climbers led by Petko V.I.

Description of technical ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor via the North-West wall with the analysis of the route and its passage by a group of climbers led by Petko V.I.

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Description of the first ascent via the right part of the NW face of Zamin-Kator I Zapadnaya peak (4303 m) in 1979 by a group of climbers led by A. Vinokurov.

II. Climbing Passport.

I. Climb category — TECHNICAL. 2. Northern spur of the Gissar ridge. 3. Summit — ZAMIN KAROR I West, height 4303 m, via the right part of the NW wall. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m. length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m. length of sections with 6th difficulty category — 690 m. average steepness — 80° 6. Pitons hammered:

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Ascent description to Zamki Karor peak (4303 m) via the central part of the NW wall with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.

PASSPORT

of the ascent made in a/l "Varzob" 1976

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Hissar Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route 1-3. Zamin-Karor peak (4303 m) via the Central part of the N-3 wall (repeated route)
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B cat. dif.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1303 m, average steepness — 83°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 920 m.
  6. Number of pitons driven for belaying and creating ITO: rock pitons — 215 pcs and 34 pcs, ice pitons — none, bolt pitons — 7 pcs.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Zamin Karor I via the North-West Wall, difficulty category 6B, climbed in 1977 by a group of climbers led by Valery Poshvin.

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Gissar Ridge
  3. Climbing route with summit height: Zamin Karor 1st West via NW ridge, Shramko - 4303 m.
  4. Proposed difficulty category - 6B
  5. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness 73°, length of sections IV–VI cat. diff. 850 m
  6. Pitons driven: rock 57, ice 0, bolt 0
  7. Number of travel hours: 29
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Report on the ascent of a challenging 4th category rock climbing route on Sanghi-Kaporan mountain in 1979.

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Climbing Report of the Ukrainian Sports Committee Team at the 4th USSR Alpine Climbing Championship (Technical Class) 1979

Climbing Details

  1. Climbing Class: Technical
  2. Climbing Area: Yaghnob Wall
  3. Peak, its Height, and Climbing Route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the wall.
  4. Proposed Complexity Category: 6B.
  5. Route Characteristics: height difference – 1353 m; route length – 1670 m; average steepness – 87°; section lengths: 3 – 200 m, 2 – 10 m, 4 – 250 m, 5 – 640 m, 6 – 570 m.
  6. Number of Pitons: for belaying:
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Description of the passage of a 6A category difficulty route to the summit I-st Western in the Gissar ridge of Pamir-Alay.

PASSPORT

  1. Class of technical ascents
  2. Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range, Yaghnob River area
  3. Zamin-Karer, I-st Western via N-3 wall (Samoded Route)
  4. Difficulty category — 6A
  5. Height difference — 1180 m, route length — 1380 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 1215 m, average steepness of the route — 70 degrees, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 71 degree
  6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: |
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Description of the climbing route to the summit, completed by the team in February 1994, with a detailed description of the tactics and actions on individual sections.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent type: winter
  2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge
  3. Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route /
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Height difference:
    • wall section: 810 m
    • total route length: 1583 m
    • wall section length: 983 m
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