Ascent Passport

1. Rock class
2. Region Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak Kush-Kaya
4. Route via the Southwest wall through the "sole" on the right
5. Cat. diff. 4B, first ascent
6. Route characteristics: height difference — 440 m. length — 510 m. average steepness — 60°
7. Used rock pitons — 6 pcs.

Ascent Log

I. Rock climbing category 2. Region: Crimea, Bati-Liman 3. Peak: Kush-Kaya 4. Route: via the center of the Southwest wall 5. Climbing category: 4B 6. Route description: height difference — 410 m, length — 470 m. Average slope — 61° 7. Equipment used: 20 rock pitons, 13 stoppers 8. Duration: 5 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours 9. Ascent leader: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov, team member: Andrey V. Levin. Coach: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov. Ascent completed on November 9, 1980.

Kush-Kaya, Kol'tso route, 5A, F6a

The beginning of the route to point R4 is shared with the routes:

• "Krokodil" (V cat. diff.)
• "Shkuroder" (V cat. diff.)
• "Po tsentru cherez kusty" (II–III cat. diff.) The route starts from a large ledge ("first football field"), located above the lower belt of rocks. The ledge is distinguished by the red rocks hanging above it. Crimea. Kush-Kaya, Kol'tso route, 5A, F6a

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: via South wall, "rybka" (The Fish)
5. Category of difficulty: 5A
6. Route description: height difference — 390 m, length — 460 m, average steepness — 58°
7. Equipment used: rock pitons — 18 pcs, nuts — 2 pcs
8. Climbing time — 6 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours
9. Climbing leader: Udovitsa Aleksandr Viktorovich, participant: Vorobyov Mikhail Yuryevich

Author: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol Today we climbed "Mezhdubolie" - a new route on Merdven-Kaya (Uarch-Kaya). No bolts! The idea to climb this beautiful and untouched line between Alina and RedFox on Merdven-Kaya (Uarch-Kaya) came to my mind a week ago, when we were climbing the "Alina" route. Right from the bottom, there's excellent terrain for climbing and natural protection. So we decided to tackle this line. Today, the idea was realized. An excellent route, pure technical climbing, no bolts, no pre-drilled holes, no prior preparation, honestly from the bottom up in 2 hours 0 minutes... The third pitch - we climbed straight up - very logical. We intersected the RedFox line, but didn't encounter a single bolt on the way until we reached the R5 station of RedFox. We finished the last pitch on it. The whole climb took 2 hours. Useful gear:

• several small stoppers
• several small aliens
• a set of cams from 0.5 to 4

Merdven-Kayas — 16. "Right Slope"

Massif: Merdven-Kayas (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 3А V Authors: A. Lavri­nenko, O. Po­pov Year of creation: 2012 Number of pitches: 8 Time to complete: 3–4 hours Route description: A logical line that leads up a couloir to the ridge and then through a complex wall to the summit. The route is monolithic, but there are loose rocks on the gentler sections of the couloir. It is hazardous in rain and during snowmelt. Not recommended for large groups. The approach starts from where a dirt road leads to the base of Khergiani rock. Follow the trail upwards, bearing right to bypass Khergiani rock, then up a couloir (with some simple scrambling) to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Traverse right along the terrace and descend to the base of the couloir. R0–R1: 60 m

• Up the simple rocks of the couloir to the left to reach a tree
• From the tree, traverse right, then upwards
• Belay station on a ledge with personal anchors

"Fnesta" Route 4A 270 m 6a/5cA1 Lavri­nenko A., Mi­ryuk O.

The ap­proach be­gins from the place where a dirt road goes to the Khergiani rock. Up the path, bearing right, bypassing the Khergiani rock, then through a couloir (some simple climbing) to a large inclined grassy ledge. Up along it — to the base of an internal corner where the route begins. R0–R1 55 m 5c Always up the corner, the difficulty gradually increases. Protection with large stoppers and friends; several trees are encountered. The belay station is on a tree at the beginning of a wide chimney. R1–R2 60 m 5c Up the chimney, pass under a plug, then:

• along a ledge slightly right,
• up, bearing left, towards an internal corner formed by a large boulder and the main wall. The entire pitch is very easy except for 7 m through the internal corner. Above the corner — along a ledge left, to a juniper, with a belay station on it.

Mer­dvеn-Ka­yasy — 14. “Present”

Massif: Mer­dvеn-Ka­yasy (Khergi­ani) 856 m Complexity: 4Б V A1 Author: Lavri­nenko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 5 Length: 225 m Time to ascend: 4–6 hours Route description: The approach begins from the place where a dirt road leads to Khergi­ani rock. Follow the path upwards, bearing right, bypassing Khergi­ani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some simple scrambling to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack. R0–R1 40 m Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and slots; the climbing is steady, and protection is easy to organize. Equipment:

• medium and large cams
• stoppers The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and room for own pitons. IV

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa — Crimea. Merdven-Kayas. First ascents. Results of the first half of 2007.

"Present" Route 4B

Lavrinenko A. Tsushko T. The approach starts from the point where a dirt road goes to the Khergiani rock. Follow the trail upwards, bearing right, bypassing the Khergiani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some easy climbing to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack. 0–1 40 m 5c — Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and cracks. The climbing is uniform, and protection is easy to organize (medium and large friends, stoppers). The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and our own pitons. 1–2 52 m 5c — From the station, move upwards to the right, climb over a large boulder, then continue upwards into an internal corner, and up through the corner transitioning into a chimney (stoppers, pitons) to reach a strongly inclined grassy ledge. Ascend the ledge to the left towards a large pine tree. Belay station. 2–3 54 m 6a A1 From the station:

• move upwards to the left towards a small ridge
• continue upwards through internal corners

Merdven-Kayasa — 18. “May 9”

Massif: Merdven-Kayasa (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 5A VI A2 Author: Lav­ri­n­en­ko A., Kuz'menko A. Year of creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 220 m Duration: 4–6 hours Route description: The route starts on the left part of the S wall, transitions to the right part of the wall at the top, and leads to the very summit, to the triangulator. There are destroyed sections. Approach to the route — from a small abandoned quarry:

• up to the right, bypassing the lower rocky bastion,
• further along the talus couloir (about 200 m),