Kush-Kaya, Kol'tso route, 5A, F6a

The beginning of the route to point R4 is shared with the routes:

  • "Krokodil" (V cat. diff.)
  • "Shkuroder" (V cat. diff.)
  • "Po tsentru cherez kusty" (II–III cat. diff.)

The route starts from a large ledge ("first football field"), located above the lower belt of rocks. The ledge is distinguished by the red rocks hanging above it.

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Crimea. Kush-Kaya, Kol'tso route, 5A, F6aimg-1.jpeg

One can reach the "first football field" ledge by first climbing from right to left along a narrow slanting shelf with trees (60 m), and then 20 m up simple rocks.

Climb 15 m up a small counterfort in the left part of the ledge, then traverse right across a slab to a narrow ledge leading to a tree at the base of a large internal corner.

Climb 40 m up the internal corner's cracks (medium and large placements) — R2. Another option is to climb a narrow chimney to the right of the internal corner (V cat. diff.) "Shkuroder".

From point R2, climb rocks of below-average difficulty to a cirque (80 m).img-2.jpeg

Upon entering the cirque, move along gentle slabs (50°) towards the internal corner formed by the right and left walls of the cirque.

Point R5 is at a pine tree at the base of the corner. From R5, climb 30 m up the corner, then along its left wall to a small bush — R6.

From here, climb up and right along the complex rocks of the corner, gradually transitioning into a crack. Along the way, pass two small overhangs (V+AI). The belay point is on an inconvenient ledge — R7.

From the ledge, climb 40 m up and through a system of cracks to reach the "dvoechny" ridge. Belay points: R8, R9 or R9', R10'.

Source: alpinist.biz

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