Technical Plan for Ascending Dubl'-pik Peak (4580 m) via the Eastern Ridge

Category of Difficulty: 3A category of difficulty (according to technical description) Peaks:

• Dubl'-pik Peak (4580 m) (southern)
• Dubl'-pik Peak (northern)
• Dubl'-pik Peak (N-2) (C) Route Sections (main, from "Dubl'-pik southern" peak):
• R0: 40 m II+ snow

Description of the ascent route to the summit Zaramag, 4221 m, from the south, via the left couloir. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

From the lower Zaramag camps in the Zaramag gorge, head towards the glacier descending from Mt. Zaramag. Cross the stream and river via a small bridge and ascend right-upwards along the trail in the direction of the ridge moraines. Approach the left moraine and ascend it. Traverse across the scree to the right (in the direction of travel) moraine. Follow it until the reddish rocks and, bypassing them on the right, continue upwards to the upper camps. The journey from the lower camps to the upper ones takes around 2 hours. From the upper camps, head left upwards, traversing under the slopes of the Adai-Khokh massif to avoid the conical moraine. Reach the Zaramag glacier. The journey from the upper camps takes 30–40 minutes. While crossing the glacier, move left towards the ridge with Mt. Zaramag, visible against the skyline (1.5–2 hours). Bypass the ridge on the left and head towards the rocky white-yellow "island", leaving the entire Mt. Zaramag massif on the right (in the direction of travel). (Fig. 1) Ascend the snowy-icy slope (about 45°) to the right-upwards, 4–5 ropes. CAUTION! Crevasses possible! Continue in the direction of the steep, snowy-icy, even couloir between the gendarme on the ridge leading to Mt. VTsSPS and Mt. Zaramag. The couloir's steepness is 30–35°, and in its upper part, 40–45°. The extent is 8–10 ropes. The couloir is visible from bottom to top. In the middle of its upper part, a rocky "island" is visible. There may be ice in the upper part of the couloir. Travel in crampons or with piton protection. (Fig. 2)

VTSPS Shoulder West Ridge 200 m snow slope 2 Hanging Glacier Drop 150–200 m 45°–50° 3–4 Big Wall 70 m 4 Slab-wall 40 m 4 Ridge 3–4

ROUTE 4B VIA THE NORTH RIDGE R10–R11 120 m 20° II SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R9–R10 120 m 40° III SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R8–R9 120 m 30° II SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R7–R8 60 m 60° III SNOW AND ICE WITH ROCK OUTCROPS R6–R7 60 m 60° III UNSTABLE ROCK R5–R6 60 m 70° III+ ROCK WALLS R4–R5 160 m 70° III, IV UNSTABLE ROCK R3–R4 170 m 60° IV UNSTABLE ROCK

6. V. Zaromag via North Counterfort and East Ridge, cat. 4B

EAST RIDGE ZIL PASS SADDLE BIG G. I P. II P. III P. IV P. WEST RIDGE VCSPS SHOULDER FRESHFIELD PASS

Zarsmag 4B

V. Zardmag via North face of the "Zil" Gendarme and East ridge

Route difficulty category: 4B

• R14
• R13
• Saddle
• R12
• R11
• R10
• R9

Passport

Ascent

1. Climbing category — rock, ridge.
2. Region — Tsey, ridge — Kalper.
3. Peak Kalper, 3802 m, ascent via the southwestern edge.
4. Complexity category — 3B.
5. Height difference — 700 m average steepness — 45°, length of sections: 3rd cat. diff. — 160 m, 4th cat. diff. — 150 m.
6. Number of rock pitons hammered — 9 pcs.
7. Number of travel hours — 5 h.

Streams R0 160 m 3 (45–50°) R2 120 m 2 45° R3 60 m 3 80° BLACK RIDGE R4

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4