So­kol — 9

Jap­o­n­sky sa­dik 5A cat. dif. (Yu. Li­sh­ayev)

R0–R1: 40 m, 6a+, A1. In some places natural protection is in destroyed cracks. Station on existing pitons and personal protection gear. Be careful, rocks are destroyed. R1–R2: 35–40 m, 5b. Careful exit to a ledge with trees (so-called "Japanese garden"). Station on one of the trees. R2–R3: 45–50 m, 5b+. Even climbing along the crack, with convenient belay organization. Exit to the station is to the right out of the crack, 6–7 m along the slabs to the ledge. Station on two bolts on the ledge. R3–R4: 45–50 m, 5c+. Even climbing along the crack upwards to the "nashlyapka"

Author: Yu. Vasilenko

Description of the "Brov'" route, 5A, Sokol mountain

The route is very beautiful and diverse in climbing. Stations on bolts. Nowadays, the route has been re-drilled by Misha Voloshinovskiy for climbing and is done mostly with free climbing, except for the "brov'" section. To start, one needs to approach the wall from the road. The climbing is similar to 3rd category routes, and belaying needs to be organized. The start of the route is on a ledge under the "Brov'" cornice, to the right of a slab leaning against the wall. At this spot, two gaps lead under the cornice. One can move either through the right or the left gap. Sokol, Brov' route, 5A R0–R1: 45–50 m, 6b, belaying on bolts + own protection, station on a bolt and two pitons (the left variant of reaching the station requires a pendulum). The start of the first rope is through a slab, which is the crux of the rope. The climbing is mixed, with free climbing interspersed with aid climbing, and constant "under-climbing". 1st variant.

• Climb 10 m up the slabs, then traverse right to the "right" gap, and up through it to the station. 2nd variant.

So­kol — 29

Ho­hla po ze­re­ka­lam 5B cat. dif.[№14]

(A. Kruglenko, aka «Ho­hol») Ho­hla po ze­re­ka­lam 2nd rope R0–R1: 50 m, 6B, A1. Up the crack through a characteristic tree, then up left to a neat traverse left to a piton. After it — a tricky move (hole). Station on a bollard and pitons. R1­–­R2: 50­–­55 ­m, 6B, A1. Up and slightly left via a system of cracks to a bollard, through it — exit to a flattening, then right up a neat traverse

Triangle — 9

Authors: Bublik Sergey, Shimko Nikolay, Ukraine. Photos: Shimko Yu., Komlyk Yu., Vasilyeva N.

A new route in Crimea on Triangle peak

The route is dedicated to our friend Masha Khitrikova...

Treugolnik — 11

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Ukraine

New route on Treugolnik "Zvezdniy" 6B

The next day we climbed. But no, the championship rules put us in a situation where we had to climb "fast and light". And how can you climb fast when there's snow, rain, frost - so we had to spend the night stylishly, without a sleeping bag and with a bonfire.

To summarize:

The line turned out to be directive to the bastion.

• The complexity of some sections is really A3+ (maybe even A4). Very similar to the first ropes of Krizuk's route on Peak Odessa 4810 m.
• Danger - by my standards - is off the charts.
• Style - couldn't be easier.

Foros kant. Telezhenko, 2B cat. sl. A strong key rope requires the leader's ability to climb and belay on rocks not less than F 5 c–6 a. This means that if there isn't one, then it's better not to go. To fail to climb and abandon the route is one thing. To fall off and ... is another.

By the Eastern Edge (ПК), 2B (V. Kozinogo route, 1973)

The route goes through a wide internal corner that vertically cuts through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering in the ridge between the peaks of Forosky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and serves as a conditional boundary between them. From the road, near the alpinist camps:

• 200 m up along the trail
• then 50 m along simple rocks under a reddish overhanging wall located slightly to the right of the wide internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no category). On the R3–R4 section — first up the slab, and then up and to the right 20 m (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–60, II–III). On the final section of the route — first left and up 25 m to a small couloir. From it, up to a large, overgrown with bushes, couloir. Along it, 25 m up to the summit plateau (R4 — summit: 120 m, 50–60°, I–II). Variation: On the R1–R2 section — from the grotto up, first along the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+). The length of the main part of the route is about 240 m. Time to complete the route is 2–3 hours. P.S. The full name of this route is not "Right Edge" as some people think, but "P — — — and kitten". This is not a literary name given by the first ascenders — Dnipropetrovsk students who got into trouble on this route.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Forosskiy kant. Routes of the "Green corner"

At the end of January, we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) climbed a new route in the left part of the Forosskiy kant, along the left edge of the "Green corner". The route looks so logical that it's surprising it wasn't climbed earlier. In the very corner, human tracks are visible, but whether it was completed to the top - I don't know; at least, I saw 2 rappel loops. The route starts at the same point as the left variant of the Kant, and goes left; the 2-grade route goes even further left. 125 ± 2 m, 5B, TD "along the left edge" Pugachev, Lavrinenko 35A TD - Timofeev's route

Chelebi — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main ridge of the Crimean mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. Relative height 200 m, absolute height 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (e.g., Bershov's route, there are several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yayla along the cliff towards the Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Shaan-Kaya — 11

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Alexander Lavrinenko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is jutting out to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes have been completed), all 6B category. To get under Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Reach Alupka "Pitomnik" stop