USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION Central Council of the SDSO "Burevestnik", Bauman MSTU sports club

Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via South Face of the Pamir Mountains. (Report)

Team Coach A. Ovchinnikov Team Captain L. Dobrovolsky Fortambek Glacier — Moscow, 1966 www.alpfederation.ru I. Brief Geographical Description, Exploration, and History of Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya

Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m

Left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge

led by Chochia P.A. 1988

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range, section №4.1 of the route classifier on mountain peaks.
2. Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge.
3. Proposed: 5B — 6A difficulty category (first ascent).
4. Route character: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1800 m. Route length: 2900 m. Length of sections:

Ascent Certificate

1. Category of high-altitude ascents.
2. North-western Pamir. Northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya. Height 7105 m. Via the South-Eastern slope. Route is combined.
4. Route category 5B.
5. Height difference 2925 m.
6. Pitons used: rock 16, ice 50. Number of placed protection elements: 12.
7. Total climbing time: 18 h 30 min.
8. One bivouac was made on the route. The bivouac site was carved into the snow and ice ridge. The bivouac was comfortable and met safety requirements.

High-Altitude Climbing Category

Report

on the ascent of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, submitted for the primacy of the Central Council of the "Burevestnik" in the 1976 season Team of the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association October 1976 Team captain V. Belyakov Moscow

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: High-altitude
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations: Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) via Southeast Ridge, category 5B complexity
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 2925 m, average steepness — 40°, complex section length — 1105 m
5. Pitons used: rock — 2, ice — 2, bolted —
6. Total climbing hours: 34 hours
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 4 bivouacs, comfortable, on moraines and snow platforms on the ridge, safe.
8. Team name: Team of climbers from the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Sports Society
9. Full name of team leader, participants, and their qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude ascents.
2. North-Western Pamir. Northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya. Height 7105 m. Via the South-Eastern slope. The route is combined.
4. Route category 5B.
5. Height difference 2925 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 16, ice 50. Used 12 pieces of protection gear.
7. Travel time: 18 hours 30 minutes.
8. One bivouac was made on the route. The bivouac site was carved out in a snowy-ice ridge. The bivouac was comfortable and met safety requirements.
9. Selivanov M.A. CMS — leader

70 Б13

GEORGIAN ALPINE CLUB
named after A. DJAPARIDZE ASCENT TO PEAK EVGENY KORZHENEVSKY (7105 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE
REPORT Tbilisi — 1973
Team Leader: D. Dangadze Peak E. Korzhenevsky (7105 m) massif.

Ascent Passport

1: Ascent category — high-altitude 2: Ascent region — North-West Pamir, Moskvina 3: Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations — east-east face of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m 4: Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1900 m, average steepness (before reaching the ridge) — 50°, length of difficult sections — 423 m 5. Number of pitons used: rock — 51 pcs., ice — 6 pcs., bolted 6. Total climbing hours — 34 h 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — five; three semi-reclining, two reclining. 8. Team name — Armed Forces of the USSR.

Dedicated to the 100th anniversary of V. I. Lenin's birth

Report

on the traverse: Peak 6200 – Peak E. Korzhenevskoi – Peak Chetyrekh, made by the team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Education and Sports on July 28 – August 15, 1969, for the USSR Climbing Championship 1969 in the traverse category. The traversed peaks are located in the northwestern Pamir, in the Muk-su river basin. The most significant meridional ridge of the Pamir – the Academy of Sciences Range – branches out in its northern part. From Peak Akhmat Donish (6665 m) to the northwest, a powerful spur extends, bearing the peaks:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m);
• Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m);
• Peak 6200. After Peak 6200, the spur sharply descends towards Muk-su.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: