135. VTSSPS-Karaugomsky South — North (combined route, category 2B, Fig. 20, 29). The path from the Tsey region KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau under the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevices), approach the right side of the saddle connecting Bokos to VTSSPS-Karaugomsky across the plateau. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund using a snow bridge, and ascend 80–100 m up the snowy slope to the snowy saddle (belay). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy slope, then a simple rock ascent leads to the South ridge of the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif. Further along the long, simple, heavily destroyed, and snow-covered South ridge with numerous simple gendarmes, approach the rock ascent to the South summit. Ascend the 15–20-meter wall (loose rocks — piton belay) to the South summit. From the South summit, traverse along the simple, heavily destroyed rock ridge to approach the wall of the Central summit and ascend it straight up (loose rocks — belay) to the Central summit of the massif. From the Central summit, traverse along the long, gently sloping snow ridge (cornices) to reach the North summit. From the North summit, make a short descent onto the snowy North ridge and then descend along it (cornices), followed by its right slope, overcoming the bergschrund in the lower part, and descend rightward onto the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau. The duration of the route is 6–8 hours excluding approaches. Fig. 29

Fig. 28 119. Dubl pik Se­ver­ny (4516 m) via East slope (route is combined, G. Belikova, 3B cat. dif., fig. 28). The path from CSP of Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Severnaya branch of Tsey glacier opposite the col of Dubl pik is described in route 83. From the bivouac, descend to the center of the ice-snow slope descending from the col between the South and North summits of Dubl pik across the glacier plateau. A large snow cornice overhangs from the col.

“Live” rock - piton protection, with several small gendarmes and narrow, short saddles, ascend to the site of the East shoulder of the ascent between two small gendarmes. From the site, overcoming a small gendarme head-on, cross the saddle and via steep rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the ridge, ascend to the Big gendarme. The Big gendarme can be initially bypassed on the shelves on the left side, then via steep couloirs (“live” rocks, protection) ascend behind it to the snowy saddle under the 3rd gendarme. The gendarme is overcome head-on via rocks of medium difficulty. Bypass the 4th gendarme via steep destroyed rocks, with an exit above the saddle under the gendarme. This gendarme is passed via rocks of medium difficulty on the ridge, then via the sharp snowy 200–250-meter ridge (cornices), via simple rocks the ascent to the summit of Zaromag. From the gendarme “ZIL” hours. Descent to the south. The duration of the route is 3 days.

Fig. 21 89. Karaugom East (4495 m) via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by V. Lubents, category III, fig. 21). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau to the northwest (closed crevasses) and approach a wide snowy saddle on the ridge connecting the peaks of Vologata on the right and Karaugom on the left. Reach the bergschrund on the left side of the wide snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow (belay) 300–400-meter slope to the saddle. Here, turn left. Further:

• Along the wide ridge of the saddle (cornice)
• Then along the gradually increasing steepness of the North-Eastern ridge of Karaugom East (cornices)
• Exit through a 10–12-meter ice wall onto the takeoff rocks (pitched belay) Along simple and medium-difficulty takeoff rocks («live» stones, pitched belay) of the North-Eastern ridge, ascend to the shoulder. From the shoulder, along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily destroyed and snow-covered rocky ridge («live» stones — belay) reach the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 6–7 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Source:

Mos­kvich

The Mos­kvich peak (4009 m) is located in the central part of the Kalper ridge, between Passionar­iya to the north-east and Lagau to the south-west. To the west, into the Tsey gorge, the summit drops with:

• steep rocky edges
• ice and snow slopes To the Kasar gorge, to the Mos­kvich glacier —
• gentle, but heavily destroyed simple rocky slopes

219. Mos­kvich from the west via couloir and North-Eastern ridge, beyond cat. diff. (G. Bu­kharov, A. Ber­dichev­skiy, B. Dor­ofeev, A. Zak­harov, G. Kuch­kin, I. Smir­nov,

Fig. 37 183. Ronketti East — Main (combined route, category 3B, Fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to East Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83 and 179. From East Ronketti, descend (using rappel and athletic method) along the steep 180-200-meter West Ridge, bypassing the Sharp Gendarme on the left, with an exit to the sandy areas of the col between East and Main peaks of the Ronketti massif. From the col, move straight up along the crumbling, simple and moderately difficult rocks of the 150-meter East Ridge to the pre-summit wall of the East Tower of the Main peak. Along the moderately difficult rocks of the 35-40-meter wall (the most challenging part of the route - piton belay), then along the simple, gentle East Ridge, ascend to the East Tower of the Main peak. From the East Tower:

• first, along the simple rocky ridge,
• then along the snowy ridge, descend to a narrow snowy isthmus (cornices).

Fig. 30 — at the barob, SSKauuny, 15. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or the village of Dzanaga (group of 420 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the northern slopes of Uvarov peak, is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) along the snowy plateau approach the northern slope of Uvarov peak. From the plateau, along the snowy slope reach the bergschrund and, overcoming it along a snow bridge - Along the snowy, almost horizontal ridge of the shoulder (cornices), then along the sharp steep snowy ridge (cornices - insurance) exit to the third shoulder. From here along the gently sloping, wide, местами острому (кар­ни­зы), then along the steep left-snowy Northern

Chernyshev Peak

Peak Arkady Chernyshev (3900 m), named in memory of the coach of the BMSTU climbers, is located in the Main Ridge, in the southeastern corner of the Western branch of the Karaugom Plateau, rising above it by 150–200 m. To the north of the peak, the Eastern summit of the Bokos massif towers, and to the west, there is a low trapezoid of Uvarov Peak. Chernyshev Peak was conquered by:

• V. Miklashevsky,
• I. Erokhin,
• L. Kalishevsky,
• K. Limarev,
• A. Chernobrovkin,
• V. Feodosiev, and others on August 8, 1946.

Malaya Kaidzhany (3700 m)

via the Eastern ridge, Cat. 1B–2A The summit is situated on the eastern boundary of the Central Caucasus. It is the northernmost summit in the northern spur of Pik Spartaka.

• To the south, Malaya Kaidzhany is connected by a ridge to Severная Kaidzhany (3969).
• To the north, a long ridge descends to Sanibanskii pass (1800 m).
• To the east, the Eastern ridge steeply descends into the Darial gorge. The summit was first ascended by B. Gолубев's team in 1947, traversing the Kaidzhany massif from the north. The Eastern ridge was climbed by V. Kuprin's team in 1971, and has been repeated several times since. Departure from Ordzhonikidze along the Military Georgian Highway to Verkhnii Lars village. 200–300 m before Verkhnii Lars, a trail (abandoned road) branches off to the right into the Belaya Rechka gorge. Be cautious on the trail, as the slopes of the Belaya Rechka gorge are steep. After 2–2.5 hours of walking, the trail joins another one descending from the right slope at a wider part of the gorge, and follows it onto the Eastern ridge of Malaya Kaidzhany. The broad, grassy ridge-koши offers good camping spots. The camping altitude is 2000 m (according to the altimeter). The path continues along the ridge. The ridge:
• is steep and grassy at the beginning of the ascent;

121. Volnaya Ispaniya via West Ridge (Category III route) From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) ascend along the Adylsu gorge road. After 300 m, turn right off the road and descend to cross the Adylsu river on a temporary bridge, above the confluence of the stream from the Kashkatau glacier. From the bridge, the trail goes through a flat forest, then steeply ascends and exits onto the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatau glacier. Further ascent along the trail on the moraine ridge leads to platforms at its end. From here, it's possible to ascend 150-200 m up-left to platforms near the "Rusty" cliffs. The initial bivouac is on the platforms. From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp, 3-4 hours.