Russian Championship in Mountaineering, high-altitude technical class. 2018

Report

of the Sverdlovsk region team on the ascent via the right part of the northern wall to the peak Parandas, 4640 m (Fan Mountains). 6A route Arkhipov. July 27-29, 2018 Yekaterinburg, 2018 General photo of the northern wall of peak Parandas.

Route Passport

1. Route classification: High-altitude technical.
2. Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains (northern part).

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Shan mountains, Zeravshan ridge
3. Peak Zamok via the right part of the North wall of Parandas shoulder
4. Proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1100 m, length 1892 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 876 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 76° (3800–4380), including:

• 6 cat. diff. 86° (3960–4060)
• 85° (4080–4165)

PASSPORT

1. Technical category.
2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range. /Northern part./ Alaudin Lakes.
3. p. Zamok (5070) via the right part of the northern wall of the "bastion"
4. cat. III (Arkhipov's route)
5. Height difference 1270 m, route length — 2142 m. Length of sections — R0–R1 cat. III — 851 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78°
6. Pitons used:

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Ridge.
3. Peak Zamok via the right part of the North wall "bastion".
4. 6A category difficulty.
5. Height difference: 1270 m, length — 1930 m. Length of 6A category difficulty sections — 256 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (p. Parandas) — 76.
6. Use of protection points: | rock pitons | bolt hangers | chocks | ice screws |

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains — northern part
3. Peak: Zamok (via Arandas), V. Arkhipov's route
4. Climbing category: 6A
5. Elevation gain: 600 m, including 600 m of wall climbing Total route length: 850 m, including:
   • category 5 difficulty — 375 m
   • category 6 difficulty — 250 m Average route steepness — 75°