ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent to the summit of Corona (4810 m) via NW wall, diff. cat. 6A, 1210 m height difference, 5 days, 42 hours of travel time.
Passport
Climbing category — winter I. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range
- Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via NW wall ice cascades, category I route. Presumed difficulty cat. — 6A, first ascent, combined. Height difference: 1210 m, length — 1400 m. Length of 5th — 6th difficulty sections — 980 m. Average slope — 63°. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :-: | | 87⁄52 | 37⁄75 | 55⁄0 |
- Climbing hours: 42 h, days — 5
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the summit of Corona I via the southern ridge with information on technical difficulty and climbing features.
Korona (I-st) 4810 m
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateA description of the route to the summit in MI symbols with a detailed diagram and photograph.
ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS, MI:
2500
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateA climbing route description, including detailed information on difficulty, duration, and equipment required for the alpine ascent.
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4 | 5 | 2 | 50 | 40 | 2I | ||
| 3/3 | 7/3 | 3 | 60 | 30 | 20 | ||
| 3 | 9 | 5 | 55 | 80 | 20 | ||
| 4/3 | 5/5 | 2 | 80 | I5 | 19 | ||
| 2 | 7 | - | 70 | 25 | 18 | ||
| 5 | - | 6 | 4100 м | 60 | 30 | 17 | |
| 4 | 8 | 3 | 12 pitches, 24–19 rock, 36–23 pitons, 3 ice | 65 | 55 | 16 | |
| 5/5 | 7/7 | - | 90 | 20 | 15 |
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the mountain peak with sections of snow-ice and rocky terrain, including technically difficult sections, elements of ITO and overnight stays organization.
Pitch 0–2. Start — bergschrund. It is better to cross it in the left part of the lowering, as the width of the crevasse and the wall of the bergschrund are somewhat smaller. Further movement is along the ice slope with a steepness of 50–55° to the rocks. Insurance through ice screws, use of ice screws and piolet-traction (French: "piolet-traction", Russian: айс-фифи). Pitch 2 — 5. Rocky belt, steep granite monoliths, limited selection of cracks. At first, movement along the inner corner, then a small cornice; after it, along an inclined crack to the left. Very difficult climbing, passing in aide (French: "aide", Russian: ИТО). When planning the passage of this section, it is best to use preliminary processing. For insurance, the entire set of rock equipment is used:
- pitons (Russian: крючья),
- nuts (Russian: закладки),
- cams (Russian: френды),
- piton-ladders (Russian: крю-коно-лесе-нки) etc. Pitch 6 — II. A small inclined shelf, overnight stay is possible using a hammock or a square piece of fabric under a tent. Further:
- Very difficult climbing along a vaguely expressed chimney
- Exit under a cornice