центру В стены
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateClimb report on Peak Engels via the East Face, made in honor of the 50th anniversary of the USSR.
To the USSR Championship in Alpinism
Report on the Ascent of Peak Engels via the East Face
(Category: High-altitude Technical Ascent) Expedition Leader — Master of Sports USSR, Senior Instructor LEVIN B.V. Team Coaches:
- Honored Coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports USSR MARKOV V.G.
- Master of Sports USSR, Senior Instructor PLYSHCHEVSKY M.A. Team Members:
- Captain: MALTSEV V.F.
- Deputy Captain: OVCHINNIKOV M.F.
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateReport on the passage of a category 6 route on the eastern wall of Pik Engelga (6510) in the Shakhdara Range of the Pamir Mountains in 1988.
Ascent Log
- Class: HIGH-ALTITUDE
- Ridge: SHAKHDARINSKY
- Peak: Engels Peak (6510 m) via the CENTER OF THE EAST FACE
- Difficulty category: 6
- Height difference: 1340 m, distance 1885 m
- Category V difficulty sections: 315 m
- Category VI difficulty sections: 360 m
- Pitons used: | Piton type | Quantity |
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateAscent record of Peak Engels (6510 m) via the East Face, 6th cat. diff., climbed in 1979 by a team guided by Yu. Popenko.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class — high-altitude.
- Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Shahdara Range.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Engels, 6510 m, via the center of the eastern wall.
- Difficulty category — 6.
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 830 m. Average steepness of the wall — 78°.
- Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 164, ice 5, bolt 26. Including for creating Intermediate Technical Objectives (ITO): rock 22, bolt 26.
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Peak Engels via the center of the eastern wall, category 6 difficulty, describing tactics, techniques, and safety measures.
Ascent Passport
- Class: HIGH-ALTITUDE
- Ridge: SHAKHDARINSKY
- Peak: Peak ENGELS (6510) via the CENTER OF THE EAST FACE
- Difficulty category: 6
- Height difference: 1340 m, distance 1885 m
- Sections of V difficulty category – 340 m
- Sections of VI difficulty category – 360 m
- Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateThe 1984 ascent of the Len Gor Sport Committee team to Peak Engels via the east face, category 6B difficulty, with a detailed description of the route and tactics.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
of the ascent made at the Central Sports Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society alpine championship in 1984 Ascent category — high-altitude Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Kishy-Jerob gorge Ascent route — Peak Engels (6510 m) via the center of the eastern wall — 6B Characteristics of the ascent:
- height difference (wall) — 1000 m
- average steepness — 74°
- length of complex sections — 875 m (height difference 840 m, steepness 80°) Pitons used: rock — 168, ice — 9, bolt — 9 + 15*, chocks — 19
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateAscent record of Sergei Kolobaev's team via the East Face of Pik Engels (6510 m) in the Pamir Mountains in 1984, rated as Grade 6 difficulty.
PASSPORT
I. High-altitude class 2. South-West Pamir 3. Peak Engels 6510 m via the Center of the eastern wall 4. Difficulty category — 6 5. Elevation gain: 1410 m, wall length 900 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 530 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°. 6. Pitons hammered:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 90/18 | 1/8 | 82/21 | 18 |