XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship Ice and Snow Climbing Category

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi East 4918 m via the center of the North face (route by V. Grishchenko, 1982), category 5B, third ascent by the Ukrainian SSR team Team Captain /M. M. Gorbenko/ Senior Coach /V. S. Sviridenko/ Tactical Actions of the Team. I. Deviations from the Tactical Plan and Reasons for Deviations:

• On the first day, there were no deviations from the tactical plan;
• On the second day, there was a later arrival at the pre-summit ridge, reason: complex snow conditions in the upper part of the route;

Ascent Passport

I. Ice and Snow Ascent Category 2. Central Caucasus, Bezengi 3. Eastern Mizhirgi via the Center of the North Face (V. Grishchenko route) 4. Estimated 5B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent 5. Elevation gain — 1700 m, route length 2090 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1680 m. Average steepness — 55°. 6. Pitons driven: rock: 2; bolt: —; chocks: —; ice screws: 218. 7. Time to the summit — 23 hours and 2 days.

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1982. ICE-SNOW ASCENTS CLASS.

Report

REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MIZHIRGI EAST, 4928 m, VIA THE CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE BY THE RS "AVANGARD" TEAM, TRUD SPORTS SOCIETY. Team Leader: V.I. Grishchenko. Team Coach: L.V. Kensitsky. RS "AVANGARD", TRUD Sports Society, Kiev, ul. Volodarskogo, 1. Tel. 74-40-22. Team Leader V.I. Grishchenko: 25205, Kiev, ul. Peschanaya, 28/32, apt. 46. Work Tel. 44-10-65, Home Tel. 71-08-74. Coach L.V. Kensitsky: Uzhgorod, ul. Shumnaya, 22/23. Tel. 90-51, ext. 3-53. The heights of the summit and the start of the route were determined using a map; the heights of the bivouac sites were determined visually and by the number of ropes climbed.

Profile of the wall from the left

Photo taken on August 16, 1981, at 11:00, using Industar-70 lens, distance to object 4.5 km, N 4, H 4500.