1. Climbing type — snow-ice
2. Climbing area, ridge — Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Ak-Kem valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Belukha Vostochnaya, 4506 m, via icefalls of the North-West wall
4. Difficulty category — approximately 50, first ascent
5. Main characteristics of the route: height difference — 1506 m, length — 2033 m, average steepness — 57°, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 543 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 10, ice — 95, no screw-in pitons, placed protection — 8
7. Moving hours — 13 h

RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP in ALPINISM ICE-SNOW CLASS BELUKHA EASTERN 4506 m via North-West wall through icefalls first ascent SAYANOGORSK 1986 Addresses:

1. Krasnoyarsk Krai Saynogorsk

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Altai, Katunskie Belki.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Belukha V. 4506 m, via the North face through the saddle, ice.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1500 m, length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 214 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 6, ice 55.
7. Number of climbing hours: 12 hours.
8. Overnights — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification:

Be­zu­la V. 4378

ALPINIAD

of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik"

Gorny Altai

Ak-kem valley July 10 - August 20 1963 Ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha from the cirque of Men-su glacier

Report

on the ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge (route category 3B) On July 26, 1963, a group of climbers, participants of the Alpinad of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik", consisting of:

ASCENT PASSPORT. I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Mensu gorge. 3. Belukha Eastern, via the pillows of the south-eastern slope. 4. Proposed — Category III, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °. 6. Movement hours — 8 hours. 7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none. 8. Leader — Kuznetsova Tatiana Yurievna — II sports category. Participants:

Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Mensu gorge.
3. Belukha East, via the south-eastern slope.
4. Proposed — for category complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °.
6. Climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none.
8. Leader — Afanasyev A.E. Team members:

160 m I

R13 100 m 40° II

R12 35 m 85° II

R11 45 m 45° III

R10 200 m 40° II

R9 50 m 75° II

R8 100 m 45° II–III

R7 30 m 85° II

R6 20 m 55° III

6Б.АК-010К

Участок R0–R1. Snow slope 40°, 200 m. 2nd diff. cl. The ridge is bypassed on the right. Участок R1–R2. Over rocks 55°, 60 m — to the main ridge 4th diff. cl. Участок R2–R3 — 150 m, 40°, main ridge, at the end a control point. Участок R3–R4 — 200 m — 50°, rocks 3rd diff. cl., in the direction to the sharp жандарму on the ridge. Участок R4–R5 — 150 m. To the right along the rock shelf 2nd diff. cl. Участок R5–R6 — left upwards along rocks and shelves 100 m, 50°. Descent. Участок R6–R7 — 20 m. Snowy rocks 55°, 4th diff. cl. Entry onto the edge. Участок R7–R8. 1st ва­лет on the ridge, from the left along the wall with a ще­лью, in counter-pressure 10 m. transition into a steep groove 15 m. Total length of the section 30 m., steepness 85°, 5th diff. cl.