I. Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Vychuk-Dara valley.
3. Peak — "5200" peak via the right part of the NW wall, first ascent.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1360 m;
   • height difference — 1200 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 666 m; including 6th category — 82 m;

Peak BOLGARIA (5666 m) via peak 5600 along the Western Ridge (Central Pamir) Area Map

Geographical Location

The gathering place for the climbers of MOS DSO "Zenit" in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolyutsii in the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The summit — Peak Bolgariya — was the target of the ascent. It belongs to the mountain chain stretching south from the highest peak in the area — Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m). On the opposite, western, side of the valley, the peaks of the Yazgulemsky Ridge stretch from north to south, most of which exceed 5000 m in height. The area is dominated by six-thousander peaks located in the northern part of the valley:

MOSCOW REGIONAL COUNCIL Sports Society "Zenit" Protocol No. 322 dated November 24, 1970 4A — first ascent Peak 5398 "Army Men". via the Southwest wall (Central Pamir) 1970 Peak 5398 (view from camp "3700")

Sports Club of the Army of the Leningrad Military District

Peak "Armeitsev" (5398 m) via the Southwest Ridge (first ascent)

The route was completed by the team of the Armed Forces of the Leningrad Military District on August 7-8, 1977. 1978 I. General view of the peak 5398 m, Armeitsev Map of the Yazgulem-dara area

Approach to the summit

The peak Armeitsev (5398 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, which has a northeast-southwest orientation over a short distance. The spur, where the peak is situated, has an eastern and southeastern orientation. This spur starts from the peak 5700 m, borders the upper arm of the Yazgulem-dara glacier from the south. At the slopes of this spur, the Yazgulem-dara glacier makes a sharp turn to the south and flows along the eastern slopes of peak Armeitsev. On the other side of peak Armeitsev lies a large cirque, bordered from the west by the crest of the Yazgulem Ridge, and from the east by a spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, branching off near the Lower Khurdzhin pass.