Ascents

1. Climbing category: Rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Vilnius, 4120 m, first ascent via the northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 820 m
   • Average steepness: 53°
   • Length of sections: R1–R100 m, R2–R160 m, R3–R530 m, R4–R200 m, R5–R200 m.

Report on the first ascent of Peak "Vilnius" via the NW buttress, category 3B difficulty Team of the "Zalgiris" Sports Society. Leader: A. P. Baublis. Coach: A. V. Petrov, Master of Sports. Vilnius, 1973.

1. Introduction. Rationale for the Route Choice

From July 13 to August 13, 1973, sports training camps for Lithuanian mountaineers were organized in the Fan Mountains by the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR. Along with other tasks, the camp leadership planned to ascend an unnamed peak and decided to name it "Vilnius" in honor of the city's 650th anniversary. During a consultation with N. Paganucci, a great connoisseur of the Fan Mountains, it was discovered that near the base camp, in the area of the Akhsu River (also known as Akhbaсай), there was a beautiful unnamed peak that was chosen as the object of the ascent.

2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Peak "Vilnius" is a rocky massif with steep walls on the east, north, and west sides, and only on the south side does it connect via a narrow pass to the "Zonatar" peak. From this pass, there is a convenient and quick descent via scree to the west. The northern wall connects to the eastern and western ridges, along which two ascent routes to Peak "Vilnius" were planned. Both routes are purely rock climbs, with snow only at the summit and in some places on the northern part of the peak. The approach to the foot of the peak is convenient and takes about 1.5–2 hours of walking from the base camp by the Arg River. The path goes along the right bank of the Akhsu River. After fording the river at the koshi (rapids), one exits directly to the routes. This location has a convenient spot for a bivouac.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region of ascent — 5.3.А.
3. Peak Vilnius, 4120 m.
4. Difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics, length of sections: II, III, IV, V — 400 m, 30 m, 160 m, 120 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | | For belay | For standing pitons (ITOs) | | :------------------ | :-------- | :------------------------- |

Sports group of MGS DSO "SPARTAK" gathering Serebryakova V. 2nd sports category — leader Bashkirov V. CMS, Ginzburg V. CMS, Klimashin V.V. 1st sports category, Bychkov A. 2nd sports category, Ponomarenko B. 1st sports category, Sadovnikov V. 1st sports category, Leonov K. 1st sports category — representative of a/l Varzab.

— 2 — The foaming distribution follows this pattern:

• Nn-lp­ppp­purov
• Tu­tup­ppp­-lsr- li­s
• Aran­chso­v-Јi­lov Then count by (2) and (3). The section is not very long, 30–40 m, but steep. At the pass, all the participants of Катьцит and Перопутная started at 9:00. Then they moved along the gully, traversing the funnels of Перопутная and Медведна (4) and (5). The ascent to the peak Бпо­б — (6) is done via destroyed slopes with simultaneous belay. We reached the peak at 14:30. We started descending from the peak at 14:30. We descended to the ridge below the funnels of Бпо­б and Бо­две­дна. From this point on, we descended, roped together, along a gentle slope that descends to the river Бпо­б. Further, we followed the right bank of the river Бпо­б or a trail through a clearing with a rainforest. We returned to camp at 15:40. V N O L N

1. The ascent to the peak Бпо­б via the western ridge is a Category 2A route.
2. The height of the peak is approximately 440 m.

In the western part of the Zeravshan range, between the basins of the Sev-Charya and Ktut-Charya rivers, a relatively isolated massif rises - the so-called Seven Lakes. The upper parts of this mountain node reach a height of 5500 m. Peaks exceeding 5000 m:

• Chishtarg - 5487 m
• Bolshaya Ranza - 5415 m
• JKCDOP - 5208 m
• Energiya - 5105 m and others (up to 10 peaks in total). The Seven Lakes occupy the space between the Zeravshan and Ryesassky ranges. Large glaciation in this area is predominantly found on the northern slopes. South of the upper Bolshaya Ranza, in the upper reaches of the Penander-Charya river, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the vast and very picturesque Lake Penander-Chul of dammed origin. This area is still little explored.

12 ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL.
2. Ascent area: – 5.3. PAMIR-ALAI, Zeravshan Range, Malaya Ganza glacier valley.
3. Summit — BELY KLJUCH, 4900 m, via south-west face — FIRST ASCENT.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. dif.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 877 m « — 6 cat. dif. — 127 m

I. Climbing category: combined technical 2. Climbing area: Fann Mountains 3. Белый Барс, 4505, via N. Ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, sections 5–6 cat. diff. 240 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belay 42, for artificial holds II, including 50 rock, 2 ice, 1 bolt, total 53. 7. Total climbing hours: 21 hours 8. Number of nights: 1, semi-reclining 9. Petrov Andrey Evgenievich — leader, 1st sports category, instructor Averyanov German Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor

SUMMIT: BELY BARS (4505 m) Via the southern ridge, 4A category of difficulty, rock Description of the first ascent made on July 27, 1967 by a group led by Davydenko V.N. (Chelyabinsk region, Miass) Description compiled by: Davydenko / leader Chelyabinsk Regional Alpine Federation 1967

1. Introduction

In the ridge located south of the peak Bolshaya Ganza, between the passes Omsk and Anzak, lies the peak Bely Bars (Lalangi Safet - the Tajik name, means "White Leopard"). The first ascent - according to information provided to us by the well-known expert on the Fann Mountains, Mr. Paganutsi N.V. (Karaganda) - was made via the southwestern short edge (route 3B category of difficulty, unclassified) by a group from Karaganda in 1962. Approaches to the Omsk pass from the northwest from the Arg river area and from the southeast from Lake Iskanderkul take 3-4 hours. The peak Bely Bars is clearly visible from the area of the peaks Saharnaya Golova, Kaltsit, and Krasnye Zori, and the group's path - from under the Omsk pass on the western side.

9. Ascent to the summit of "Palangi-Safed" (White Bars). (approx. 4A) (from Omsk Pass). The summit "Palangi-Safed" (White Bars) (4565 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the southern spur of the summit Bolshaya Ganza to the east of the Arg river gorge. The peak is rocky, without snow cover, ice is found in crevices and chimneys facing north. The rocks are very destroyed, but have few cracks for hammering in rock pitons. In the cracks, wedges can be used for belaying. No notes were found at the summit. The approach to the summit is from Lake Iskanderkul up the Sarytog River, then along the Arg River and then up the Anzak River and its right tributary (along the way) to the Omsk Pass. By the second half of summer, both these rivers (Anzak and its tributary) become very shallow and even get lost among the stones. It is better to spend the night under the pass, where there is water, firewood, and no wind. The ascent begins to the north of the Omsk Pass, at the beginning of the ridge. First, we go along a steep internal angle 20 m long and exit to a large site. Along the site, we approach the rocks and, turning right, along a ledge we approach a cleft. We ascend the cleft to a protruding stone, convenient for belaying. From the stone, right and up 20 m along a wide crack, we exit to the second site. On it, a control cairn was left. To the right of the site are cliffs. Further up 20 m along a steep couloir, and then 40 m up the rocks of medium difficulty. Then left and 35 m along an inclined oblique fissure. Ahead is the first gendarme (Path from the large site to gendarme No. 1 in the photo). We ascended the gendarme along an inclined shelf and after a 30-meter descent from it along a sharp ridge, we reached a saddle. Behind it is the second gendarme. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right and along slabs with a steepness of 60° we exit to gendarme No. 3, which is bypassed on the left along heavily destroyed rocks.