Route №21 «Nadezhda»

(G. Tkachenko, M. Vorobyov, D. Savchenko, I. Shvets, 1978) 5A VI A2 355 m (9 pitches). Average time to complete — 5–8 hours. A beautiful and logical route. There are no anchors on it, so climbers will need not only the ability to navigate rocky terrain well, but also a set of varied equipment, including:

• anchor pitons
• large cams From the parking lot, ascend via the trail to a large clearing. From here:
• first, up along the forest path,
• then up and right along ledges and gentle slabs.

Ascent Passport

I. Rock class 2. Region Crimea, Batiliman 3. Peak Kush-Kaya 4. Route through the center of the Southeast wall, "integral" 5. Complexity category 5A 6. Route characteristics: height difference — 290 m length — 320 m average steepness — 65° 7. Used pitons: rock — 12 pcs.

Ascent Passport

1. Type: Rock climbing
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: via South wall, "pants" via left pant leg
5. Difficulty category: 6A
6. Route characteristics: Height difference — 370 m, length — 440 m. Average steepness — 58°
7. Equipment used: Rock pitons — 13 pcs, nuts — 20 pcs
8. Duration: 7 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours
9. Ascent leader: YArunov Aleksandr Georgievich, 2nd sports category, participant: Nesterov Vitold Petrovich, 1st sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: via South wall, "pants" via the right pant leg
5. Difficulty category: 5B
6. Route characteristics: height difference — 370 m, length — 440 m. Average steepness — 58°
7. Pitons used: rock — 28 pcs.
8. Duration: 6 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours
9. Ascent leader: Pavlov Yuri Dmitrievich, 1st sports category, participant: Devin Andrey Viktorovich, 2nd sports category

Kush-Ka­ya, Se­nokos route, 5B (M. Volo­sha­nov­sky — S. Nad­to­chiy)

The route was started on January 6, 1994, by Simferopol climbers S. Nadtochiy (Ter­ror­ist) and M. Voloshanovsky (Mi­shel). Completed in May 1994 by Ter­ror­ist solo. The perilous ropes hung until 1996, and in the upper part of the R3–R4 section, they still hang. The route is rarely climbed, and not everyone reaches the end. The route is a natural wa­ter­course, which is why from May to October the cracks are clogged with earth and grass, so Ter­ror­ist named his route "Se­nokos" (Hay­cut). In winter, the route is much more pleasant, but you still have to do some "gar­den­ing". The route starts 20 m to the right of the split, along which the first rope (not counting the ap­proach) of the "Pray­aya shtan­i­na" (Right pant leg) route 5B passes. Kush-Ka­ya, routes R0–R1: From the knocked-out piton arrow straight up along a thin crack for 10 m, then along a slab towards a bol­ted hook. From the hook to the left upwards, to a ledge under the over­hang. The over­hang is passed on the right side (there is a bolt). Sta­tion in a grot­to. 35 m 80° V+A2 R1–R2: From the sta­tion upwards along the left wall of the grot­to for 5 m on aid (bolt, sky­hooks), then by com­plex free climb­ing along the crack, exit to an over­hang. Through the over­hang on bolts, exit to the sta­tion. 30 m 85° VI A2

Technical Description of the Route

Mt. Kush-Kaya (627 m), 22. "Algoritm" (Algorithm), 5B cat. scl. Here's a story about how it was. https://www.risk.ru/blog/208185 From the "Kush-Kaya" camping parking lot, we go right - up in the direction of the popular "Integral" route. Seeing a sign for the start of the multi-pitch "Sabotage 7B+" route, we turn left. We see a "leaning" two-rope "pillar" against the wall. To the right of the large pine tree, the "Serp" (Sickle) route begins. We started on "Serp", but we recommend starting to the left of the "pillar" on "Diretissime". There, the clean and beautiful climb leads through two ropes to a pine tree on top of the "pillar".

Kush — Kaia-13. Right of Va‑rezh‑ka

R0–R1. (35–40 m) The start of the route is 10 m to the left of the "Le‑vaia shtani‑na" route.

• From the shelf, move left and up 10 m — easy climbing
• Exit onto a small ledge under an overhanging chimney with grass
• Up the chimney for 7 m on aid climbing
• Further up through an inclined inner corner to a large tree — easy climbing
• Exit onto a large ledge, where the "Va‑rezh‑ka" route from the left and "Le‑vaia shtani‑na" route from the right converge R1–R2. (25–30 m)
• From the large tree, traverse right along the ledge for 10 m

Technical description of the route

Mt. Kush-Kaya (627 m) - 23. "Batilimania", 6B cat. climbing route This is how it was done. https://www.risk.ru/blog/208148 The start of the route coincides with the route "Laskovyi Mart". I repeat the description of "Mart" up to the R7 station. From the "Kush-Kaya" camping parking lot, we go to the right and upwards in the direction of the "Shkuroder" climbing sector. Bypassing this sector from the right, we ascend the slopes of the summit via the traditional path, which coincides with the approaches to the routes:

• "Shtany"
• "Senokos"
• "Ugolok"

CIOFRENTA CIOFRENTA CIOFRENTA CIOFRENTA CIOFRENTA CIOFRENTA CIOFRENTA CIOFRENTA CIOFRENTA

"Surprise" 1B cat. diff. (Merdven–Kaya)

The wall is located to the left of the "Chertova lestnitsa" pass. 3-4 km from the forester's house towards Yalta along the road. 0-1

• Turn from the road onto the trail leading to the "Chertova lestnitsa" pass (the trail is well-marked with arrows).
• Ascend along the trail to the ridge, traverse it, and climb (15-20 m) easy rock onto a ledge. R1-R2. Continue left-up towards the ridge. Reach the ridge and ascend simple rocks (200 m) up (either along the center of the ridge or keeping to its right side).