Shaan-Kaya. "Grafika" Route

Published by Alpinist on May 21, 2018

Today, there is very little space left in the Crimean mountains for interesting and challenging lines. This is especially true for iconic peaks like Shaan-Kaya. Pioneering a new route in such a place is a very responsible task. By taking away the last untouched sections of the wall from future generations, it is essential to minimize our impact on the terrain. More than a year ago, while admiring the gray monolith between "Grishchenko Pravyy" and "Arsenal" on the right side of Shaan-Kaya, I noticed a thin, discontinuous crack crossing the wall diagonally. "It would be great to climb this smooth slab without using a drill." The idea seemed worthy but unrealistic. Still, I took a series of photos of the wall to study at home. Upon enlargement, the relief looked very poor. The crack was repeatedly interrupted, but it was still there. I decided to give it a try, but if I got stuck with extensive drilling, I would retreat. Despite being tired after the May championship, I was eager to start working on the route. The next day after the award ceremony, armed with an excessive amount of anchors, axes, skyhooks, and copperheads, we managed to tear ourselves away from the ground. On the first day, the weather allowed us to climb two pitches. On the second day, around 5:00 PM, we finished the route, fully realizing our idea. Throughout its length, the line is tied to the natural relief. There are no intermediate bolts. No holes were drilled for skyhooks either. The route has the following fixed equipment:

• 2 bolts on the second belay
• a pendulum bolt with a carabiner at the end of the third pitch The remaining belays are on natural protection.

Shaan-Kaya — 8. Hyperborea route (Yarechevsky Marunich)

In the mountains — climbing routes of Crimea The route passes through the right part of the South wall of Shaan-Kaya, in the upper part it goes left, to the center. A landmark can be a huge overhanging inner corner, visible even from the lower road. If you draw a line from the base of the corner, perpendicular to the foot, it will come to the start of the route. The route was started in the 1980s by Chaplyngsky and Samoded, but, having passed 150 m, they stopped (from this point it is possible to swing to the Grishchenko route). The route was completed by Vitaly Yarechevsky (Odessa) and Vladimir Marunich (Nikolaev). In 2000, they made a reconnaissance, passing the already passed section of the wall and strengthening the stations, and in November 2001 they completed the route, passing a 100-meter overhanging section, which, in my opinion, is the key one. The route was climbed with processing of the lower part and 2 overnight stays on the wall on a platform. The length of the route is 300 meters, of which overhanging sections are more than 200 meters, sometimes more than 100°. The complexity of climbing is VI+, ITO A3 (or more?). Some sections of ITO-climbing were passed by Vitaly Yarechevsky in free climbing, his assessment is F 6c–7a. The second ascent was made by Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko (Odessa), Alexander Mak­si­me­nya (Minsk) in February 2002. On a sunny February day, Sasha Maksimenya and I approached Shaan-Kaya. My time in Crimea was coming to an end, and I wanted to climb something unusual. There are two such routes on Shaan-Kaya:

• Shel­kha­kov — Po­po­v, 2001
• Hyperborea

Shaan-Kaya — 7

Author: Kirill Gostev, Yalta Shaan-Kaya, "Pianissimo" route (6B extra F6b/6c, A4, 280 m) The struggle with the mountain is a struggle with oneself; if you're a hero, your path isn't simple!!! Everything started cheerfully and enthusiastically, but gradually the exclamations of "Hooray!!!" on the prolonged overhang turned into a state that fully corresponds to the name of the route — "Pianissimo", only occasionally did falling boulders with a loud thud stir our consciousness. In general, everything turned out great. Thanks to our support group:

• Sergey Voshchanov,
• Alexander Rushkovsky (our altitude operator),
• Evgeny Meshkov. "The Guardian of Secrets" and chronicler of Shaan-Kaya's history, Yuri Borisovich Burlakov, periodically visited the mountain to observe us. During rare meetings with him, he wished us success and infected us with the same enthusiasm and fervor that, probably, accompanied the first conquerors of Shaan-Kaya, led by Yuri Borisovich.

Shaan-Kaya — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­enko, Odes­sa Alexander Lav­rin­enko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is pushed forward to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. 6 routes are laid along the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes were climbed), all are 6th category of difficulty. To get to Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Get to the Alupka "Pit­om­nik" stop
• From it, go up the road

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Interpretation — "Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

At the beginning of the route, a drill has beaten out on the rock:

• 2001
• an arrow pointing up and slightly to the right. R0–R1: Three meters of climbing T1 — a large V-shaped hook in a live flake to the right and up. Two to three meters of a small ledge. There's a crack in it.

Author: Alexey Shelkhakov, Simferopol Scheduled cleaning of the "Samurai" route 6A, 6B, A3 On January 13, the team of Popov — Shelkhakov carried out a scheduled cleaning of their "Samurai" route (6B — A3) on the Shaan-Kaya massif, removing the pitons and poorly fixed temporary bolts left by other climbers. We also identified the points where our route intersects with the climbing route "Atlant-M" 8b, 250 m, which was completed in early autumn 2004 by the team led by A. Vedenmeer. Since we were unable to find a diagram of this route online, we had to determine the situation on site. The previously published photographs of Atlant-M did not indicate the neighboring routes, and accordingly, did not specify the points of intersection with the existing mountaineering routes on the massif. The inspection showed that Atlant-M intersects Samurai at an acute angle between R3–R4, which significantly reduces its difficulty. In its upper part, this route intersects Samurai again near the ledges, which is generally insignificant. On the final section, before reaching the plateau, it runs very close to it. In light of these circumstances, we decided to remove the bolts of the Atlant-M route that are located within the corridor of the Samurai route, but only those that reduce its difficulty — specifically, the section between R3–R4. We removed two bolts:

• One of them was driven 40 cm away from ours and can be replaced by it.
• Further, there is a crack suitable for pitons, where one can be fully and reliably secured, thus replacing the second removed bolt. This is the minimum of what was possible; Atlant-M remains passable. The diagrams of the routes provided by us may contain inaccuracies, but it's still better than nothing.

Shaan-Kaya. Grishchenko route (left), 6A

Shaan-Kaya. Grishchenko route (left) — climbed by Viktor Grishchenko's team (Kiev). Grishchenko route (left), 6A, started along the old, unfinished bolted track, continued on natural relief — straight up, along corners. SH­AAN-KA­YA. Routes lines A simpler variation:

• Up left, along the system of inner corners, to the top of a spall (intersection with «Krym 87»)
• Further up, to a slanting crack

Sha­an-Ka­ya — 3

Author: Alex­ander Za­ko­lod­ny, Khark­ov.

2012 © — new route on Sha­an-Ka­ya, 6A

Sha­an-Ka­ya is that, lately: base jumpers, rope access... attracts unusual mountains. Long winter, r line on the summit, after which... goal of Grishchenko to me with visiting the museum since the times of Zenit. As a partner I g, helped me to dry. The route passes left. On the march pulls! In these rock climbers, these people... grief and around looked straight crack left, gi m-t. or, as later i shlyambura). l initiative and

Shaan-Kaya — 13

Author: Alexander Maximenia, Minsk Crimea. Shaan-Kaya. Solo Shaan-Kaya is located not far from Alupka. The mountain rises 250–300 m in the middle of a pine forest. The landscape is unreal and mesmerizing. Under the wall, there are piles of huge boulders. Among this chaos, there's a cozy grotto where I settled and became a caveman for this week. March 12. Arrived in Crimea. By evening, I reached the mountain and settled in the grotto near the wall, which was not visible in the fog. March 13. The weather improved. The sun is shining. I'm testing my gear and nerves on the old bolted route in the center of the wall. The route was drilled about forty years ago by Yalta residents when attempting to pass the wall, and it's well-preserved for its age. After 70 m, it ends, and I rappel down. March 14. Climbed to the second belay on Hyperborea. Checking every move, I creep up the wall — not just moving, but literally creeping. There's no one around, and every wrong decision can have unpredictable consequences. March 15. Ascended via the fixed rope and climbed further

Shaan-Kaya — 12. "Synthesis of Consciousness"

Massif: Shaan-Kaya (985 m) Complexity: 5B, VI, A1 Author: A. Geniush, Kudryavtsev Year of route creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Total length of the route is 213 m, suggested complexity category is 5B. R0–R1 (42 m, A2, f 6b) — The route starts between the "Arsenal" and "Maximen" routes, among the ivy, a crack for anchors and medium-sized stoppers begins. Move up the crack towards a small pine tree, then tackle a slight overhang in its central part, where a crack leads under the small pine. After the tree, ascend 10 m on anchors and stoppers to reach the belay station, which is set on two anchors. R1–R2 (38 m, A2, f 6B) — From the station, shift 1 m left and upwards to a vertical crack, then move up through it towards an internal corner. The corner is well-passed using medium and large cams and stoppers. The corner leads to a narrow horizontal ledge that goes left. Traverse 6 m along the ledge; there are 2 anchors on the traverse. From the anchors, lower slightly to the station, which is set on 2 anchors. The traverse itself is not complicated and is relatively safe. R2–R3 (35 m, A3, f-7a) — The next pitch starts with a beautiful flake forming a small internal corner with the main wall. Ascend 8–10 m through this corner to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge, move through an overhang with a small internal corner to a large internal corner. On the overhang, there are 2 intermediate bolts:

• To the 1st anchor, ascend via the small internal corner on small, partially driven anchors.
• To reach the 2nd anchor, use large skyhooks (3 pcs.).