East European Highlands
Route Description: По правому контрфорсу ЮВ стены
Description of the 2Б route to the Paragelmeng peak via the right counterfort of the central wall, indicating the starting options and necessary technical means.
Paraghelmen — 7
List of routes to the summit Paraghelmen:
- Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the spur 1B, II
- Paraghelmen via the left spur of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
- Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
- Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
- Paraghelmen via the right spur of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V
Route 5
Route Description: По Л контрфорсу ЮВ стены
Description of the 2A, III, A1 climbing route to the Paragelmeng peak via the left counterfort of the central wall, including key elements and necessary equipment.
Paraguelmen — 2
List of routes to the summit Paraguelmen:
- Paraguelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and counterfort 1B, II
- Paraguelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
- Paraguelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
- Paraguelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
- Paraguelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraguelmen via SE edge and center of the wall 3B, V
Route 2
Route Description: Железный путь
The "Iron Path" route on Mshatka-Kaya, VI A3, 215 m, goes along the right part of the wall with a large number of pitons and anchors.
Mshatka-Kaya — 17. “Iron Path”
Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: VI A3 Length: 215 m Route description
The route goes through the right part of the wall, crossing the right edge of the
triangle. Climbed in winter, on snowy rocks. At a temperature below −5 °C.
Not repeated.
The approach to the route coincides with the approach to the “Triangle on the
right”. From the old Yalta road, 200 m to the right of the fork to Baydarskie
Vorota, a path leads to the wall.
On the path, then on the talus, general direction left — up, approach the lower
Route Description: Селекция Генофонда
New route "Seleksiya Genofonda" (F6c E4, A3, 290 m) on the Mshatka buttress in Crimea, first ascent by Yury Kruglov and Vladimir Odoyev.
Mshatka — Kaya — 10. «Genofond Selection» — (F6c E4), A3
The route "Genofond Selection" is indicated by a white line. Photo by A. Zhilin
The route is located on the Mshatka bastion between the routes "Triangulyatsiya" and "Strelka"
and has been considered for a long time. To begin with, Vova Odoyev and I decided to conduct a reconnaissance. On October 15, 2023, we
approached the wall, climbed two ropes, received ambiguous impressions, took several photos, and descended.
Upon reviewing the photographs, I saw an opportunity for a route that was logical, bypassing the living sections and areas lacking relief for natural protection, but it required a fresh look.
For the second reconnaissance, I was joined by Kyiv resident Yevgeny Brusko — we climbed the same part of the wall up to the first overhang. The second time, it was a third faster, and the areas that were previously climbed using artificial aids were successfully passed by free climbing, which was a pleasant surprise.
The further route line became clear...
Route Description: Диктат дождя
New route "Diktat dozhdya" (5B) on the wall of Miатka-Kaya mountain, climbed in 2017 by a team of two climbers. Description of the route with technical details and recommendations.
Miatka-Kaya (618 m) — 24. "Diktat dozhdya" (Rain Dictate), 5B
The route was climbed on March 13-14, 2017, by the team:
- Zagirnyak Mikhail
- Pugachëv Sergey, in 12 hours
The approach starts from the observation deck below Foros, going up the trail, and then along simple rocks and trails, traversing to the right in the direction of the "Triangulyatsiya" route. Passing the beginning of the ascent to the "Uho" route, move up to the right, towards a large group of trees under the main wall. The start of the route is on the left side of the wall, on implicit ledges. R0–R1: 40 m, I–II, 50°; When processing or carrying heavy backpacks, the first rope can be hung and a piton station organized 10 m below the large group of pine trees under the wall. Standing by the pine tree under the wall is extremely uncomfortable.
Railing Station at R0–R1
Route Description: По прав.части В бастиона
A new variant of the *"Po uglu"* (Along the corner) route 5A on Mshatka-Kaya, complexity category V A1, 240 m, 5 pitches, 5-7 hours ascent.
Mshatka-Kaya. Eastern bastion, variation of the route "Po uglu" 5A (V A1 240 m (5 pitches) t 5–7 h). E. Poltavets (Kharkov) and V. Makoed (Odessa) 2013. The line passes through the inner corner with a non-monolithic relief. The route is prone to rockfall. You can approach the start of the route from the left, like for route №?. There's also an option to approach via the couloir separating Mshatka-Kaya and Zamok: from the road, go up the scree path, overcome a несложную стенку and ascend towards the couloir separating the massifs. Then follow the couloir. The cork is bypassed on the left via rocks (10 m II). From the couloir:
- left and up to the ridge (30 m I),
- then right and up to a large tree at the base of the wall.
After rain and during snowmelt, the couloir is prone to rockfall.
Route description:
Route Description: По центру В бастиона
Description of the route "Through the center of the eastern bastion" of 5a category of difficulty to the top of Mshatka-Kaya, 230m long and 4-5 hours ascent time.
Mshatka-Kaya — 21
Centre of the eastern bastion, 5a
From the upper road, ascend simple rock to the right part of an overgrown shrubby inclined terrace located under the eastern part of the wall. The route starts 20 m east of the beginning of the right "side" of the Triangle (R0: 300 m, 30–50, easy — I). On the R1–R2 section:
- from a narrow inclined ledge on the left side of a small, not clearly defined counterfort to a pine tree
- then up steep walls to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III). Then up through the centre of the bastion. The landmark is a 20-meter internal corner with a tree
Route Description: Не туда
The new route "Ne tuda!" (Not that way!) of category 5B on the Mshatka-Kaya peak in Crimea, climbed in February 2007 by T. Tsushko and A. Lavrinenko.
Mshatka-Kaya — 15 h
Author: Aleksandr Lavrinenko, Odessa
“Not That Way!” 5B 270 m 6c A3
T. Tushko — A. Lavrinenko, February 2007 The idea was to follow a big cornice to the right of “Ryzhiy Vyval” (The Reddish Outburst); photos gave hope
- as a crack was visible along the center of the cornice. Up close it turned out to be not a crack, but a scar from a detached boulder. Having said goodbye to a beautiful idea, but saving a dozen bolters and avoiding a cold overnight, we reached the summit via a complex zigzag. The approach and first 2 ropes coincide with the “Treugol’nik Sleva” (Triangle on the Left) route. 2-3
Route Description: Рыжий вывал
Description of the "Ryji vyval" route, category 5B difficulty level, on Mshatka-Kaya mountain in Crimea, including details on passage and belaying.
Mshatka-Kaya — 14
Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Ryzhiy vyval" ("Red landslide") — the green line on the photograph
Mshatka-Kaya "Ryzhiy vyval" (55)
Route by Yu. Lishayov ("Fantik"), Crimea
Back to the main page of "Mshatka-Kaya. Three routes"
Author: Alexander Lavriyenko ("Odessit"), Odessa
The route passes to the right of the central bastion of Mshatka-Kaya. It is visited extremely rarely. The beginning coincides with the "Treugolnik sleva" ("Triangle on the left") route.
Having passed along the "Treugolnik" for two ropes (50 m 70IV and 50 m 60III),
Route Description: Лишаёва
Description of the "Lishayov's Route" (5A) on Mshatka-Kaya mountain in Crimea, passing through the central bastion with challenging rock climbing sections.
Mshatka-Kaya — 13 hours
Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya Mt. “Lishayov's Route” — red line on the photo
“Lishayov's Route” (5A)
Mt. Crimea Back to the main page of the “Mshatka-Kaya” essay. Author: Alexander Lavrinenko (“Odessit”), Odessa The route (“Fantika”) goes along the central bastion about a hundred meters to the right of the “Strelka”. It is rarely climbed as many people are not aware of its existence. The start of the route coincides with the “Triangle on the left” 3B route.