Pushkin Peak

Report on traversing the Krumkol — Dykhtau Main Ridge via a Category 6B route, accomplished by a team of climbers in July 2020.

Russian Championship in Alpinism 2020. Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents. Report on the Traverse of Krumkol (4688 m) – Dykhtau Gl. (5205 m), via Route 6B cat. dif. by the Combined Team of Voronezh Region and Moscow Region for the Period from July 15 to July 22, 2020 I. Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Dmitrienko E. V., MS | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Susloparov P. A., CMS, Maximov D. S., CMS, Vasiliev I. V., CMS | | 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Bolkovoy E. V. | | 1.4 | Organization | Alpinism Federation of Moscow Region |

The ascent of the "Trud" team to Pik Pushkin via the North face in Bezengi in 1972, technically challenging, category 6, 70 hours on the wall.

Ascent made during the 1972 USSR Alpine Championship Class of ascent — technically difficult. Area of ascent — Bezengi, Mikhigri gorge. Ascent route — Pushkin Peak via the North face (5000 m). Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 2000 m, average steepness — 60°, length of the most difficult sections — 980 m, Number of pitons used: rock pitons — 112 pieces, ice pitons — 80 pieces, drilled pitons were not used. Number of climbing hours — 70 hours only on the wall. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

Ascent to Peak Pushkin (5100 m) via the North Face, category of difficulty 5B, combined route, elevation gain 1900 m.

Pushkin Peak via the North Face Ascent Log Region: Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section 2.5 Summit: Pushkin Peak 5100 m. Route name: via the North Face Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, variant or combination Route type: combined Route elevation gain: 1900 m. Route length: 2930 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 780 m

The description of the first ascent made by LOS DSO "*Trud*" group via the left buttress of the southern wall of *Peak Pushkin* (5100 m) in 1966 with a detailed analysis of the tactics and technical details of the route.

Between July 30 and August 7, 1966, the LOS DSO "Trud" team (team of the A. N. Krylov CRI) consisting of: PUGACHEV A. D. — Master of Sports, leader PUSHKARSKY V. I. — 1st sports category, participant ANTONOVSKY D. I. — MANOILOV Yu. S. — completed the traverse of p. Pushkin — East Mijirgi. On p. Pushkin, the group ascended for the first time via the left counterfort of the southern wall. Peak Pushkin (5100 m) is a small gendarme in the Northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks Zapadnaya Mijirgi (4922 m) and Dykh-Tau (5198 m). Its southern side is a ruined rocky massif intersected by deep snow-and-ice couloirs. The presence of counterforts and sheer sections allows for interesting and logical ascent routes to any part of the Dykh-Tau — Mijirgi ridge, including Peak Pushkin. The difficulty of the proposed routes from the south to p. Pushkin, according to the participants of this traverse, lies within 4B–5B category. It should be noted that there are existing classified routes of 5A category to Dykh-Tau and Zapadnaya Mijirgi from the south. The proximity to these most popular peaks and, perhaps, the difficulty of the descent may explain the lack of ascent routes to p. Pushkin until recently. Although the southern wall of p. Pushkin has been featured several times as an ascent object in the USSR alpine climbing championships (e.g., in 1962, the LOS DSO "Trud" team submitted one of the ascent options to p. Pushkin from the south), the first route to this peak was only completed in July 1966 by Gorevsky's team (LOS DSO "Trud"). The ascent to p. Pushkin from the south via the left counterfort, made during this traverse, is the second such route. Below is a description of the ascent route to p. Pushkin. Tactical plan and organization of the ascent

Description of the route to Peak Pushkin (5100 m) via the northern wall, difficulty category 6A, first ascent by the Bezengi alpine camp group led by Nikolay Gorevsky.

Route Description First ascent to p. Pushkin (5100 m) on the southern wall (approximately 56 k.tr.) Group a/l "Bezengi" under the leadership of Gorevsky N.N. Route Description From the camp along the trail or through the middle of the Bezengi glacier to the so-called "Austrian camps", then through the "sickle-shaped moraine" by the usual path leading to the Sella pass, to the plateau under Pushkin Peak. From the camp 8–9 hours. The wall of Pushkin Peak, in its lower part, is a triangle dissected by a narrow vertical couloir. The height of the lower part of the wall is about 700 m. The route passes along the right side of the wall. The beginning of the route goes along a snowy slope, to the right of the avalanche chute, through the bergschrund, and then along rocks of the "sheep's forehead" type to the base of an inclined shelf leading upwards to the right. Further along the shelf to its end (8 ropes). The shelf ends with a snowy slope going into the couloir. Without entering the couloir: straight up the icy rocks (2 ropes);

Report on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with the ascent along the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team in 1971.

To the Judging Committee Central Council of Physical Education And Sports Report on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with ascent via the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team. Team composition: Captain — Candidate Master of Sports Mal'tsev V.F. and coach Members: Candidate Master of Sports Bakulin A.A.