ascending to the summit of CHEGET-KARA-BASHI (traverse with ascent along the north-eastern ridge and descent via route category II difficulty) The first ascent of the route was made in the 1974 season by a group of instructors from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp led by V.N. Lukinov. In the 1975 season, the ascent was repeated by a group of instructors from the same camp consisting of:

• 1. Presnov V.A., 2nd category, leader
• 2. Maerkovich V.V., Master of Sports
• 3. Zhukov S.Ya., 1st category
• 4. Kruglov E.M., 1st category
• 5. Stepanov V.N., 1st category
• 6. Silin B.M., 1st category
• 7. Razumov Yu.A., 1st category

«Дикая Птугань» (1) 2160 м

1. Climb characteristic: technically challenging.
2. Climbing area: Adyl-Su gorge, Central Caucasus.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern ridge, 3667 m.
4. Climb characteristic: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness from 45° to 60°, length of difficult section 15 m, 10 m, 40 m.
5. Number of pitons: rock — 10, ice — –, drill — –.
6. Number of walking hours: 10.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: –.
8. Team name: "Elbrus" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
   1. Plemyalkov Pavel Kirillovich — Master of Sports of the USSR.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: rock
2. ASCENT AREA: Main Caucasus Range, Northern spur of Ullukara.
3. ASCENT ROUTE WITH INDICATION OF PEAKS AND THEIR HEIGHTS: v. Cheget-Kara – 3667 m, via the left Southeast buttress.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 4A cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference: 850–900 m, average slope – 45°, length of complex section – 240 m.
6. NUMBER OF PITO NS INSTALLED: rock – 12, ice –
7. NUMBER OF TRAVELING HOURS: 7 hours.
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT STAYS: –
9. FULL NAME OF LEADER, PARTICIPANTS, AND THEIR QUALIFICATION:

239

REPORT

On the ascent to Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern counterfort from August 2 to 4, 1972, approximately category 4B difficulty, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society.

1. Approach to the Initial Bivouac

From the Dzhatugan alpine camp, follow the road along the Adylsu valley. After 300 m, turn right across the river via a temporary bridge onto the Koshey clearing. Then, follow the trail up to the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier and along its ridge to a large rock — 1 hour. From here, turn left and ascend via a steep trail to the Turii Lakes — 40 minutes — the location of the initial bivouac.

2. Geographical Information

Cheget-Kara-Bashi — 3667 m — is the outermost peak of the northern spur of Ullu-Kara. To the east of the peak lies the Bashkara glacier, and beneath the western slopes — a small Cheget-Kara glacier with Turii Lake beneath it — a bivouac site. Several routes to Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak have been established, ranging from category 2B to 4A difficulty. The area around the peak is considered well-explored by climbers; ascent routes are popular among alpine camps in the region. The northwestern counterfort of the peak was first ascended in July 1970 by a group of instructors from the "Elbrus" alpine camp led by N. Korzhov, who rated it category 4B difficulty. This route has become popular among sports groups due to its:

• logical progression,
• safety,

138. Chegetkara via the South-Eastern counterfort (B. Garf's itinerary, category IV).