Ullu-Auz

Description of the ascent to the summit of Ullu-Auz-Bashi (4679 m) from the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass, complexity category 3A, with a detailed description of the route and key sections.

Ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass. Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass is classified as category III. Route description. Day 1. Day 1. From "Bezengi" tourist center, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the glacier level (approximately one and a half hours of walking). Then, you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle part to the first step of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is traversed on its right side along the most gentle ice slope. It is not recommended to approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. The path continues: straight up the icefall, approximately 20–50 m from its left edge; numerous crevices are filled with serac fragments and can be passed without difficulty.

Ascent to Ullu-Auz via the North Face, category of complexity 5A, with a description of the route and technical details.

Ullu-Auz, north wall, 5A category of difficulty. We leave the overnight stay on the moraine of Ullu-Auz glacier at 1:00 AM, cross the glacier in its middle part, and approach the cone. The slope has a hard, firn snow-ice cover. Further movement is on crampons. Straight up: At the beginning of the path - simultaneously. As the steepness of the slope increases - insurance alternately through ice axes and ice screws. The section is exhausting. After about 400 m, we reach the level of the snow cushion, which is clearly visible from the left, above which the bergschrund wall passes (2–3 m). Here, an overnight stay is possible. Further: We have to break through the snow to the ice with crampons. It may be necessary to break through a trench vertically upwards to organize screw insurance. The steepness of the slope increases to 60%. It takes 4–5 hours to pass the upper part of the wall.

Ascent of Ulluauz via the southern slope and eastern ridge, category of complexity 5A, with a description of the route and recommendations for climbers.

23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the W ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964). The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Severny Ulluuuz glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac. From the bivouac (in teams and with crampons!) across the glacier and then up, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky outcrop. Through the bergschrund, ascent straight up 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then — along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky outcrop (insurance! avalanches!) — with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the triangular rocky outcrop. From the plateau: ascent along the snow slope through the bergschrund; further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m up to the lower rocky right outcrop under the summit tower (avalanches!); on the right side of the outcrop (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m up. From the top of the outcrop: 300–400-meter traverse left-up along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (piton!); along the ice slope-couloir ascent to the saddle of the Eastern ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

Ascent to the summit of Ulluauz via the Southwest Slope and East Ridge, complexity category 5A, with a description of the route and recommendations for climbers.

23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the E ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezkin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964). The path from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to the Severny Ulluuuz Glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac. From the bivouac (in ropes and crampons!) across the glacier and then upwards, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky spur. Across the bergschrund, ascend directly upwards 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky spur (protection! avalanches!) with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the rocky triangular spur. From the plateau: ascend along the snowy slope through the bergschrund; further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m upwards to the lower right rocky spur under the summit tower (avalanches!); on the right side of the spur (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m upwards. From the top of the spur: 300–400-meter traverse left-upwards along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (pitons!); along the ice slope-couloir, ascend to the saddle of the East ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

Ascent to the summit of Ulluauz via the Western Ridge, 4A difficulty category, with a description of the route and recommendations for climbers.

Ulluuaz via West Ridge — Cat. 4A (A. Baldin, N. Alkhutov, T. Baldina, and Yu. Smirnov — August 10, 1958). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug pinnacle is described in — 18. From the bivouac on the ridge, descend to the snow plateau of the glacier, above the third stage of the icefall. From here, move left and upwards, parallel to the Southern ridge, towards a wide (25–30 m) snow couloir of the West ridge of Ulluuaz peak, to the right of the Utug pinnacle. Up the snow couloir (in teams!), bypassing the rocks in the couloir on the right, 250–300 m upwards, and then across the talus — exit from the couloir onto the lower saddle of the West ridge of Ulluuaz peak. From the saddle: to the right across talus, snow (cautiously — cornices!) and easy rocks — ascent to the first ridge rise; further up the easy ridge rocks, then up the ice-snow rise — ascent to below the “Pila” wall (a series of rocky pinnacles). Under the wall: initially 90–100 m up and to the right along ledges and slabs, 60–70 m short of the right edge of the wall; then 35–40 m left and upwards along a snow ledge;

Ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi (4679 m) summit from Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass, grade 3A.

Ullu-Auz from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass. The summit of Ullu-Auz-Bashi (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass is classified as 3A category of difficulty. Day 1. From the "Bezengi" road, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of the Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the level of the glacier (about an hour and a half of walking), then you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle to the first step of the Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is passed on the right side along the gentlest ice slope. You should not approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. Further, the path goes: straight up the icefall, about 20–50 m from its left edge. Numerous crevices are filled with serac debris and are passed without difficulty. The most difficult section of the second step is located in its upper part, where it may be necessary to:

Ascent to Ulluauz via the South Pillar, category of difficulty, first ascent in 1964, detailed route description and recommendations for climbers.

Ullauuz via South Spurring Ridge — category of difficulty (G. Chunovkin, Yu. Komarov, A. Pugachev, V. Stankevich, Yu. Shevchenko and I. Shestipalov, August 24, 1964). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the South ridge of the Utug pinnacle see in description 18. From the bivouac: Descend from the ridge to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third stage of the icefall Ascend along the plateau, then along the snowy rise to the upper snowy plateau of the cirque, formed by the peaks Ullauuz and Kundyum-Mizhyrgi Behind the South spurring ridge of the Ullauuz peak, visible from the bivouac, to the left (rope