REPORT

on the second ascent of Peak Koltsova, Main summit, 4824 m, East face Onysk OС – fast ascent category AA (14–15) 07.81. p. Koltsova Main 4824, 15.07.81.

BRIEF EXPLANATION

To the table of main characteristics

14.07.81. After receiving a full consultation on the passage of the wall section from the Nikolaichuk — Ufimtsev group on 13.07.81 via radio, we set out on the route at 06:00. We approached the start of the route on the right side of the large couloir of the East face. The route begins to the left of a small cave, from a rock straight up the overhanging wall about 30 m. Then the wall turns into an internal corner with eaves — 60 m. Attention! The rocks are destroyed!

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kemisdykty gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Koltsov Peak, Main summit, 4824 m, East face.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: the route is combined, height difference — 900 m, including wall part — 700 m, length of 5th difficulty sections — 395 m, length of 6th difficulty sections — 150 m, route length — 1580 m, average steepness — 73°.
6. Pitons used (for belay/for aid climbing): rock — 79/3, drilled — 1, ice — 3, chocks — 46/2.
7. Number of climbing hours — 18.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one bivouac on a ridge in a tent.
9. Full name of the leader, team members, and their qualification:

I. Category of ascent: technical 2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alai, Southern spurs of the Alai Ridge, Kemisdikty glacier area. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Koltsova peak, Main summit, 4824 m, East wall. 4. Difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: the route is combined, height difference 924 m, including 700 m of wall section. Length of sections 5–6: 515 m, total route length 1625 m. Average steepness of the East wall 78°. 6. Pitons driven (for belay / for hanging):

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Koksu tract area, Alai ridge, Kemisdykty glacier cirque.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4824, via north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • route — combined;
   • height difference — 950 m;
   • length of sections 5–6;