Doppakh South

Rock, cat. 3

3 ridge — ski descent The route was first ascended in 1937. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, follow the Doppakh glacier and then to the ridge separating a small unnamed glacier and a wide scree-filled couloir on the southwest slopes of Doppakh peak. The southern path coincides with the above-described Route IX. Here, on a wide scree ridge before the western wall of the peak, there's a campsite (photo 29). From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, it takes 3–4 hours. From the campsite, ascend along the ridge to the wall. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The wall is about 200 m high, composed of difficult, sometimes wet rocks, overcome with careful belaying using ledges and 10–15 pitons. Upon exiting the wall onto the southern ridge, a 20-meter wall is overcome using the Zalpug method. From here, follow a chimney about 10 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. Variations:

• The ascent up the wall can be done slightly to the left (north) of the described route — a couloir variant.
• This variant is more difficult. The descent from the peak to the campsite and further to the "Nakhashbita" clearing follows Route 1B and takes about 4 hours.

34. Doppakh Eastern — Western (A. Zyuzin's combined route, 5A cat. dif.).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (4-8 people group), to the summit of Eastern Doppakh is described in routes 31, 32. From Eastern Doppakh, descend in the direction of Central Doppakh along a 40-meter steep rocky ridge to a small saddle with a summit tower. From it, make a 30 m rappel to the left, then along a ledge on the left side of the tower, exit to the western ridge of the summit. Further, along rocks of medium difficulty, ascend 30 m along the ridge to the Black Gendarme. From it, make a 25 m rappel along steep, destroyed rocks to the ridge. From here, along simple, destroyed rocks of the ridge, passing a saddle, ascend to the Flat Gendarme. From the Gendarme, descend to an ice-snow saddle. From the saddle, along a simple 40-50-meter ice-snow ridge with sections of rocks, ascend to the Central Gendarme (Doppakh-3). From Central Gendarme, descend along the ridge or ledges on its right side to the inclined northward Gendarme Tower. From under the Tower, make a 25 m rappel to the left. Bypassing the Gendarme, ascend to the saddle of the ridge. Further, along a steep, complex ridge, ascend to the Gendarme Kupol. From Kupol, descend along the ice-snow ridge to a snow plateau. Set up a bivouac on the plateau. From Eastern Doppakh, 6-8 hours. Along the plateau, bypass the large Pre-summit Gendarme from the right and, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80 m along a steep ice-snow slope to the rocky base of Central Doppakh. Along difficult rocks of a 50-60-meter wall, ascend to the sharp ridge of the summit and along it, exit to Central Doppakh. From the plateau, 2-3 hours.

33. Doppakh Western — Eastern (combined route by I. Suzhaev, 5a category of difficulty).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the Psygansu river bank, under the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Western Doppakh summit is described in the routes:

• 24
• 26
• 27
• 28 From the Western summit, a simple 120–150-meter snow slope of the Eastern ridge leads to a small snow plateau in the direction of the Central summit. The bivouac is on the plateau. From here:
• 180–200 m along the snowy Eastern ridge,
• then along a steep 60–80-meter icy slope to a site near the ice-snow col between the Western and Central summits of the massif.