Shkhara
Route Description: С стене В гребня
SSummitMateAccount of the ascent made by the Elbrus airline crew to the Western Pharaoh (5057 m) via the northern wall of the eastern ridge buttress in 1982, rated as category 6B difficulty.
Ascent Passport
- Class — technical
- Central Caucasus, Bezengi region 2.5
- Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the north face of the eastern ridge spur, second ascent of the route
- Proposed difficulty category — 6
- Height difference — 1157 m (3900–5057), wall length — 1730 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m (3975–4570, 4780–4890), average steepness of main sections — 64–67°, of which 6th category — 320 m (4280–4570, 4780–4890), 77–79°
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraversing Bezengi Wall with an ascent to Shkhara via the northern edge, accomplished by a group of climbers in 1960 in 8 travel days under challenging weather conditions.
Moscow City Council
VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:
- Moiseev Yu. A.
- Mosunov A. A.
- Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMate### Description of the Traverse of Bezengi Wall Peaks from Shkhara to Jangitau Account of the traverse of the Bezengi Wall peaks from Shkhara to Jangitau, accomplished by a group of climbers in 1964.
2. Group Composition and Support
The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp:
- Saratov Yu.S. — group leader,
- Beda A.G.,
- Golubkov B.S.,
- Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents:
- 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi
- 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.