Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek

Peak Simagina, Polevoy Route 5B

The approach from Koronskaya Hut takes one to one and a half hours. From the bergschrund to the rocks, it's half a rope of ordinary ice. The authentic variant bypasses the lower rock leg on the left. The climbing is up to 5th category, but it's destroyed. I climbed straight up the leg. Climbing is 5+ and A1 with some artificial aids. In crampons, the second half of the rope can be climbed. The 60m rope ends just before a gap in the ridge where the authentic route comes out.

1st day of ascent. February 8, 1990. The group started the route at 3:00 AM. Section P0–P2. The upper snow-filled passage is traversed to the right under the ice wall. The sheer ice wall is climbed using Alpfiz with ice screws, with a short traverse to the left under the rocks of p. Sinagina. The belay spot is uncomfortable. Section P2–P6. The ice slope, with an average steepness of 65°, is climbed along the left part of the couloir, pressing against the rocks. Closer to the center of the couloir, snow dust pours down, making it difficult to work. Section R6–R7. The ice cornice is climbed to the left and upwards, leading to a very steep internal angle. The climbing is tense, and the belay spot is very uncomfortable. Section R7–R8. The ice internal angle leads to a ridge, the belay spot is uncomfortable, and it transitions into a rocky internal angle, with rocks covered in ice, making the climbing tense, and the belay spot uncomfortable. Section R8–R10. A series of moderately difficult rock walls with small, smooth holds covered in ice lead to a steep "chimney" with a plug. Section P10–P11. Climbing in the "chimney" with a plug is very difficult and tense. It is necessary to clear the holds from ice and snow. The "chimney" ends with a rock ledge — a good spot for belay. Section P11–P12. A series of moderately difficult rock walls, complicated by ice on the rocks, lead to a steep, broken rock ridge, with dry rocks, and convenient belay spots. Many old pitons are found on the rocks. The rock ridge leads to the summit. The descent from the summit was made via the ascent route. Features of the passage:

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Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: winter 2. Ascent region: Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Simagina via N-3 couloir of North wall (4400 m.) 4. Expected difficulty category — 5B /approximate/ 5. Route characteristics: 46 m /m.r.u./ 195 m·m·m² height difference

• 750 m. wall section length
• 560 m. of them: 5th difficulty category
• 495 m. 6th difficulty category
• 85 m. average steepness — 64°

Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Path to Pik Kosmonavtov

Fig. 1. As­cent to p. Svobod­naya Ko­rea (gen­eral view)