Partizan ZB category via South-East Ridge

Route description.

The approach to the route is through Tuyuksu or Igly Tuyuksu passes. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Yuzhny Partizan glacier. From here, head to the saddle between the first and second towers of the south-eastern ridge. The path lies along the snowy and icy slopes. Before reaching the saddle:

• Turn left towards the couloir
• Exit the couloir onto the ridge above the two characteristic rock outcrops
• Control point is located here Further:
• Traverse left along the not very distinct ledges
• Approach the internal corner, which ends with a 7-meter wall

Partizan ZB c.l. via North-West face

Route description.

The ascent begins by approaching the north-west face of the peak via the Igly Tuyksu glacier. Here, on the moraine, is a convenient location for the initial bivouac. The route starts with an ascent up a firn slope, leading to a couloir (steepness 30–35°, prone to rockfall). After ascending 200 m, turn into the right branch of the couloir, cross it in its lower part, and exit to the right onto a rocky ridge, continuing along it. Certain sections require careful belaying. In the lower part of the ridge, the rocks are smoothed, and small terraces are encountered. After 50 m, there's an exit to difficult, sheer rocks. Piton belay is necessary (3–4 pitons). Further, for 100 m, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty to a saddle, where the right and left ridges, forming the couloir, converge. Then, there's a section of easy rocks, with scree and snow intermixed, leading to the most challenging, key section of the ascent. There are two options for overcoming this segment of the route:

• The first is a 60 m ascent up the rear, icy wall of the chimney (steepness 65–70°). It requires step-cutting and piton belay.
• The second is an ascent to the left up the chimney, which is no more than one and a half meters wide and has a steepness of 70°. The chimney is clogged with snow and ice, blocked by plugs, stacked one above the other. The height of the chimney to the plugs is 10–12 m. The first plug is passed on the left, the second on the right. Belay is via pitons.

Partizan 2B cat. via West face from Ledik Igla

Route description.

The summit of Partizan is located in the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur. It rises with two rocky towers above its snowy-ice foundation. From the south, the peak is connected to the peaks of Igly Tuyksu by a long, heavily serrated rocky ridge; to the north lies the peak of Ordzhonikidze. They are connected by a 200-meter snow-ice ridge with powerful cornices on its eastern side. From here, the Partizan glacier flows down to the west. The initial bivouac can be conveniently set up on the moraine of the Igly Tuyksu glacier. The ascent begins by approaching the base of the left snow-ice couloir adjacent to the massif of the Ordzhonikidze peak. Traverse the narrowest part of the couloir and exit onto the ice slope. Belaying is with pitons. Crampons are necessary. If the ice sections are heavily exposed, one can:

• turn left onto the rocks
• ascend them with piton belaying to the upper snowy slope
• move along the slope towards the northern tower of Partizan

Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks

Description of the route. Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (piton belay). Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3 m wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20 m wall (pitons belay). After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10 m wall (pitons belay). Then traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall, exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn. The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf, behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peaks — Mayakovsky Peak (4208 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), Partizan Peak (4390 m), Tuyuksu Spires (4218 m), Tuyuksu Peak (4218 m), route — traverse of 5 peaks.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A in winter
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 900 m.
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 95 m.
6. Pitons hammered: