Пасор, Западная
Route Description: СЗ склону
SSummitMateAscent record of Peak Tallinn (6047 m) via the Northwest Slope, grade 3A, Yazgulem Range, Central Pamir.
ASCENT REPORT
- Ascent category: Snow and Ice
- Ascent area: Yazgulem Ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: P. 6047 m, via the northwestern slope
- Proposed category: 3A, protocol 547, part 10, dated February 5, 1985
- Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths — R0–R1 300 m, R1–R2 40 m, R2–R3 200 m, R3–R4 80 m, R4–R5 1000 m, R5–R6 20 m, R6–R7 100 m
- Number of pitons: ice screws 30
- Climbing time: 14 hours
- Number of bivouacs: 2
- Names of the team leader and participants, their climbing qualifications:
Route Description: с перем. З ребра
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Peak 6047 m in the Yazgulyam Ridge, Pamir, category 4B difficulty with a detailed description and path diagram.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent type: rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Central Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, from the saddle of the western ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category: 4B.
- Route characteristics: height difference 647 m, average steepness 43°, section lengths — I 460 m, II 225 m, III 334 m, IV 38 m, V 68 m.
- Pitons hammered: for belaying — rock II, ice —, bolted —; for creating ITO — rock 21.
- Number of climbing hours: 13 hours.
- Number of nights and their characteristics: none.
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
Route Description: ЮЗ склону и ЮЗ гребню
SSummitMateClimbing passport for Peak 6047 m in the Yazgulyam Range, Pamir Mountains, via the southern glacier-firn slope with exit to the southern ridge, category of difficulty 4B.
Climbing Passport
I Climbing class: high-altitude technical II Climbing area: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge III Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, via the south-eastern ice slope with exit to the south-western ridge. IV Proposed difficulty category: 4B V Route characteristics: a) height difference 2047 b) average steepness: 43° c) section lengths: I⁺) 1150 m, II⁺) 50 m, III 650 m, IV 320 m, V 350 m
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Peak Pasor (6047 m) by the North Face, cat. 5B, Pamir, 1980.
Ascent Record. I. Technical Category. 2. Central Pamir. 3. Peak Pasor (unnamed peak, 6047 m) via the north face. 4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately). 5. Route characteristics: The face on Peak Pasor. Length — 1405 m, including sections of category 5B — 330 m, 5A — 315 m, category 4 — 475 m, category 3 — 180 m, category 2 — 100 m. Average steepness — 65°, steepness of category 5 sections — 70°. Total route length — 1760 m. Total elevation gain — 1150 m. 6. Pitons used: * for belaying: * rock: 60 * ice: 7
Route Description: СВ стене 3 кф.
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Peak 5870 m via the north-eastern wall of the western counterfort (*Yauglem ridge*) with complexity of cat. 5.
Ascent Passport
- High-altitude technical category.
- Yazgulem Range, Khavraz-Dara valley.
- Peak 5870 m via the north-eastern wall of the western spur.
- First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately).
- Route characteristics Wall: length 1385 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 1155 m (6 category – 80 m, 5 category – 1075 m, 4 category – 230 m). Average steepness – 73° (steepness of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 80°). Total route length 2225 m (6 category – 80 m, 5 category – 1075 m, 4 category – 500 m, 3 category – 470 m, 2 category – 100 m).
- Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors (ITO) rock pitons – 104, including 10 for ITO ice pitons – 12, including 3 for ITO