4012
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of Jimray-khokh, "4398" and Saoutisi-khokh peaks in North Ossetia, category III-V, route description from 1958.
The peaks of Jimarai-khok (4776 m), "4398" and Soutisi-khok (4473 m) are located west of the peak Kazbek in the spur of its snowy massif and limit the Midagravin plateau from the east and southeast. Jimarai-khok is the highest peak in the mountains of North Ossetia. Its icy-rocky northern wall is clearly visible in clear weather from the city of Ordzhonikidze between the white caps of Kazbek and Shau-khokh (4000 m). The peaks of Jimarai-khok, "4398" and Soutisi-khokh are composed of schists cut by diabases and effusives, and have significant glaciation. The western rocky ridge of Jimarai consists of effusive rocks. The first ascent to Jimarai was made by a group led by Z. Japaridze in 1935 via the western rocky ridge. In subsequent years:
- In 1950, climbers from the "Medik" Sports Society of North Ossetia visited Jimarai again.
- In 1955, a group from the North Ossetian alpine section led by Suzhaev traversed the peaks of Jimarai-khok - Shau-khokh, which was rated as a category 5B route.
- The peak Soutisi was first conquered by a group led by S.V. Polyakov in 1956 via a ridge ascent from the Tep pass. No one has ever been to the peak "4398", which remains nameless. The beauty of the Jimarai, Soutisi peaks and the snowy-icy ridge with cornices and icicles between them prompted the climbers from the "Lokomotiv" Sports Society to undertake this traverse, which is described below.
Route Description: траверс
### Crossing Jimray-Xoh and Suatisi-Xoh Peaks in the Caucasus Category 5B difficulty level. Detailed description of the route.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Traverse of the peaks Dzhimaraikhokh (4778 m) — "4398" — Suatisi-Khokh (4473 m) 5A cat. diff. The peaks Dzhimaraikhokh (4778 m), "4398" and Suatisi-Khokh (4473 m) are located in the Lateral Range of the Caucasus, west of the peak Kazbek. Their massifs limit the Midagrabin plateau from the east and southeast. Dzhimaraikhokh is the highest peak in the mountains of North Ossetia. The ice masses of Dzhimaraikhokh and Suatisi-Khokh are connected by a ridge. The peaks Dzhimaraikhokh, "4398" and Suatisi-Khokh:
- are composed of schists cut through by diabase dykes;
- have significant glaciation. The western rock-ice rib of Dzhimaray steeply descends into the upper cirque of the Midagrabin glacier. The first ascent on Dzhimaraikhokh was made via the eastern ridge by a group led by A. Dzaparidze in 1935. The traverse of the peaks Dzhimaraikhokh — Shau-Khokh is classified as 4A cat. diff.
Route Description: траверс
### Traverse of Midagrabin-Hokh and Tep-Hokh Peaks in Central Caucasus A challenging mountaineering route with a 4-5 complexity category. The traverse encompasses stunning scenery and technical climbing sections. #### Key Features: * **Location**: Central Caucasus * **Complexity**: 4-5 category * **Notable Peaks**: Midagrabin-Hokh, Tep-Hokh * The route involves traversing two significant peaks, offering breathtaking views and demanding climbing sections.
Traverse of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) – Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks, 4–6 cat. diff. (approximately).
The Midadgrabin glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area (to the west) and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area (and North Ossetia) is Jimarai-Khokh (4778 m).
The massifs of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) and Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks are part of the ridge that bounds the Midadgrabin plateau from the south and branches off from Jimarai-Khokh to the west.
Relief features:
- To the north, the ridge drops sharply with steep icy slopes and rocky walls.
- To the south, it drops with rocky walls. The rocks that make up the massifs of these peaks are extremely unstable, and the ridge between them is heavily destroyed and very sharp with steep drops. The traverse was first completed in September 1956 by the "Lokomotiv" group led by L. Tsypkin. It was traversed for the second time also by the "Lokomotiv" group in the same year. Classification of participants:
Route Description: траверс
*Suatisi Traverse — Geologov Peak — Jimarai — Shau-khokh — Druzhba Peak — Zaigelan, Midograbin Glacier, 1965, Climbing Report*
Report on the Traverse of Peaks: Suatissi — p. Geologov — Jimaray — Shau-khok — Druzhba — Zaygelan
Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya"
Coach NARKEVICH F.V. Captain PRAZDNIKOV V.A.
Minsk 1965
Scheme of the traverse of peaks "Suatissi — peak 4392 — Jimaray — Shau-khok — peak Druzhba — Zaygelan". Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya", Minsk.
Legend: visible path, invisible path, bivouac locations, route sections.
"It's better to quarrel with Kazbek than to drink tea with Jimaray"
Ossetian proverb