a stream or a snowfield closing it and 500–600 m up along the grassy slopes and scree of the Western ridge of pik Semenovskogo. Further, a climb to the shoulder along simple rocks. From the shoulder, there is a 200–250-meter traverse with an ascent along the scree and simple rocks on the right side of the ridge (protection needed!); then 30–40 m left and up, an ascent to the ridge behind the gendarme. Along the 12–15-meter ridge and a 10-meter ledge on its left side, there is a descent into the gap. From the gap, 300–350 m up along simple rocks («loose stones!») and scree of the ridge or its left side, further, an ascent onto a snowy slope along the slabs and then an ascent to the top of pik Semenovskogo along it.

• From the left-bank moraine — 4–5 hours
• Descent along the ascent route to the moraine — 1.5–2 hours Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–20 people.
2. Initial bivouac — left-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier.
3. Departure time — 5–6 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2×30 m; rock pitons — 2–3; rock hammer — 1; carabiners — 6–7; tent — 1.

Peak Semenovsky 4050 m via the South Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty

From the Dzhangi-Kosh Hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of the 4050 peak, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050 m, 1–1.5 hours from the hut. Cross the cirque to the left in its lower part and ascend via the fine reddish talus or outcrops of broken rocks onto the S. ridge. To the right of the ridge, move up with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops, crossing snowfields, to the pre-summit rise of the ridge. Traverse along a ledge to the right of the ridge into a snowy gully and up it for 150 m to the NE ridge (ice possible in the upper part of the gully; one can divert to the rocks on the right). Follow the NE ridge leftwards to the summit, 4–5 hours from the hut. Descent follows the ascent route — about 1.5 hours. Hazardous areas:

• ice possible on the ledges of the S. ridge
• ice possible in the pre-summit gully

Peak Semenovsky via the NE ridge, 2A

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of peak 4050, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050, 1–1.5 h from the hut. Ascend via talus and snowfields to the NE edge of the cirque, under the couloir descending from peak 4050. Follow the snow-rock boundary (on the left) up the couloir (watch out for falling rocks on the right) to the saddle on the NE ridge, left of peak 4050. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops (caution: heavily deteriorated rocks) through a series of low "gendarmes", about 1 h. The last "gendarme" is bypassed on the right with piton belay. Then, along a wide snowy ridge with outcrops of deteriorated rocks — a gentle ascent to the summit, 5–6 h from the hut. Descent is via the S ridge, as described earlier. Hazardous places:

• Couloir — prone to rockfall
• Rocky terrain — heavily deteriorated
• Possible ice on the descent from the summit in the couloir and on ledges Special equipment — 3–4 rock pitons.

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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Semenovsky Peak (4050 m) from the west via hanging glacier.
4. Route type — combined, sections determining the complexity category — ice.
5. Proposed complexity category — 2B category.
6. Route characteristics. Elevation gain — 1170 m, length 2325 m, length of sections 3–4 category — 875 m, average steepness of main difficulty sections 33° (2880–3680).
7. Pitons hammered: rock — 1, ice — 16.
8. Number of climbing hours — 10.
9. There were no overnight stays on the route.

Semenovsky Peak via NW spur 3A

From the Bezengi Glacier, above where the 3rd stream flowing from the SW cirque of Dykh-Tau meets the glacier, ascend via avalanche debris, then along a dry riverbed and a grassy-scree slope to the right of the spur. Traverse the 'ram's foreheads' to the right and above them, left along rocky ledges onto the ridge of the spur, about 1 hour from the glacier. Along the ridge on moss-covered solid rocks with simultaneous belay on outcrops and rock pitons for 1.5–2 hours. Further: along an 80–100 m scree slope, bypassing a 'gendarme - camel' to the left, 30 m along a simple ridge and another 60–80 m on scree. Then: 60 m along slabs to the left of the ridge with piton belay and another 30 m along a heavily destroyed ridge to a col before the final Semenovsky Peak, (4050) steep ascent of the rocky ridge. From here, 20 m to the left (caution: unstable rocks, possible ice) and 10 m up a wall (piton) onto the edge of the northern snow-ice slope of the summit. 200 m along a 'pocket' between the snowy slope and rocks, 150 m along a gentle snow-ice ridge (attention - belay via ice screws) and along a snowy slope to the SW ridge, 80–100 m to the left to the summit. 8–10 hours from the glacier. Descent along the S ridge according to description 1. Hazardous places: on the rocky section of the spur - heavily destroyed rocks, rockfall hazard, on the pre-summit ridge - possible ice.

1. Climbing class: technical
2. Region: Central Caucasus
3. Summit: p. Semenovskogo 4050 m, from the northeast
4. Difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: ice elevation gain — 700 m, average route steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial holds | | rock | ice | | :---------- | :--- | :--- |