Айлама

Description of the route through the northwest wall of Chernaya Bezymyanka climbed by a team led by A. Naumov.

Northwest wall of Черной Незнакомки (photo from under the wall) — the route of our team — the route of A. Naumov's group

Description of the ascent route to the summit, complexity category 4A, height 4040 meters.

V. Chernaya Neznakomka 4100 2 Sept. 4040 m 1 Sept. 3460 m 2800 m 0

Ascent to the summit of Chernyaya Neznakomka (4100 m) via the right ice-rock counterfort of the East Ridge.

ASCENT REPORT Ascent class — rock. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Range south from Kittlod pass to Gezevtsék pass. Peak, its height, ascent route — Chyornaya Neznakomka, 4100 m, via the right South counterfort of the Eastern ridge. Expected difficulty category — 4B. Route characteristics: height difference — 1400 m, length of sections with 5th–6th difficulty category — 310 m, average steepness — 70°. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent to the peak of Alashi Dzaparidze via the South Face, grade 5b, relative height of the wall 750–800 m.

ASCENT TO PIK ALESHI DZAPARIDZE “Chornaya Neznakomka” via the southern wall. 79 Pik Aleshi Dzaparidze, 4100 m high, is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the peaks Tsurungal and Belaya Neznakomka. To the north of the summit lies the cirque of the Ailaminskiy glacier, its slopes covered with ice with occasional outcrops of rocks. To the south, the summit drops almost vertically in a rock wall. From the ridge between the peaks Chornaya and Belaya Neznakomka, a series of almost parallel steep rock buttresses descends. Below them, closer to Belaya Neznakomka, lies the Zes-Lo glacier, from which a long, 100–120 m wide, snow-ice couloir ascends almost parallel to the ridge to Pik A. Dzaparidze, with a slope of 25–30° and a series of deep gullies. A nearly vertical rock rib leading directly to the summit divides this couloir into two branches: The left couloir, as you ascend, sharply increases its steepness and ends in a narrow rock couloir with formed ice, leading to the central rib. This couloir is very dangerous due to constant rockfall. The right couloir, bypassing the central rib to the right, is located between it and the adjacent ridge buttress and ends under the rocks of the main ridge. Its steepness increases from bottom to top from 45–50° to 75–80°. The couloir is entirely icy, with deep (up to 5 m) gullies. During the day, the couloir is prone to rockfall. The group consisted of three instructors and one participant from the “Ailamf” alpine camp, members of the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the “Trud” sports society. The ascent was made during a reconnaissance trip to the Zes-Lo area to explore the region. The path from the “Ailamf” alpine camp goes down the road through the villages Kurundashi and Tsanya to the trail leading to the Zes-Lo gorge to the village of the same name and further to the river flowing from the glacier,

Description of the 4A category complexity route to the Chyornyaya Neznakomka summit via the South Ridge, combined terrain, traversing gendarmeries and icy slopes.

Chyornaia Neznakomka via South Ridge (combined route, L. Akhvlediani, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 9). Before the Moraine Platforms (point 41), turn left into a grassy, scree slope-couloir. From here, go straight up for 700–800 m along a broad scree couloir that sharply narrows at the top. From the couloir, ascend a snow-ice slope, then climb rocks of medium difficulty to reach the South Ridge of Chyornaia Neznakomka peak. Turn right here and follow easy rocks with short ascents along the South Ridge to reach some platforms. Make your base camp on the platforms. The trip from the "Zesho" alpine camp takes 5–7 hours. From the platforms, ascend 60–80 m along easy, broken rocks, then along the snowy South Ridge to a small 1st gendarme; bypass it via snowy scree, and then continue along the easy South Ridge to the 2nd gendarme. Traverse 80–100 m to the right of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pointed triangular rock gendarmes along the steep, snowy-icy slope of the Left couloir (loose rocks, pitons), and then ascend a 4–5-meter wall with a cleft to reach the South Ridge. Climb 40 m along rocks of medium difficulty on the South Ridge to a large triangular wall. Below the wall, turn right and then ascend 150–200 m up a snowy-icy couloir under the cover of the wall (loose rocks) to the right rock wall. Climb rocks of medium difficulty (loose rocks, pitons) 30–40 m up the wall to a shoulder. Turn left here and ascend 150–200 m up a broad, snowy-icy couloir (belays) to a saddle on the West Ridge. On the saddle, turn right and follow an easy 100–120-meter, snowy-icy (cornice) West Ridge to the summit of Chyornaia Neznakomka. The trip from the base camp takes 4–5 hours.

### Ascent Route Description Detailed itinerary for climbing to the summit from the 12th to the 26th.

| 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | Here is the original image: and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints:

A description of the ascent route, presented in the form of a table listing steps or stages from 1 to 700.

| --- | --- | | 1 | 1 | | 2 | 2 | | 3 | 3 | | 4 | 4 | | 5 | 5 | | 6 | 6 | | 7 | 7 | | 8 | 8 | | 9 | 9 |

The third ascent via route 6B cat. of difficulty on the south-east wall of Tsurungal (4222 m) in the Caucasus, route and team description.

Ascent Log (Third Ascent) Ascent class — rock climbing. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range from Ktlod Pass to Gezhevtsek Pass. Ascent route — Tsurungal via the southeast wall (4222 m) – Central Nезнакомка (4100 m) – Bolshaya Nезнакомка (4200 m). Difficulty category — 5B. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1980 m, length of 5th-6th difficulty sections — 720 m, average steepness (excluding the ridge part) — 65–70°.

Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key moments, and necessary preparations for mountaineers.

10ro boro sub

Ascent to Tsurungal peak (4A cat. grade) via the Western slope from "Ailama" alp camp through Koruldashi glacier.

Tsurungal via the West Face (combined route, V. Gabelashvili, grade 4A, fig. 5, 12). From the "Ailama" alpine camp, follow the trail up the gorge along the left bank of the Koruldashi River. Above the point where the second stream of the Koruldashi Glacier merges into the river on the right, cross the river and follow the trail on the left side of the large green moraine to reach the lower plateau of the Koruldashi Glacier. It takes 1–1.5 hours from the alpine camp. On the glacier, make your way to the right side of the ice-and-snow slope with rockfall in the upper part, descending from the Tsurungal saddle on the Main Caucasian Range between Ailama and Tsurungal. From the glacier, having overcome the bergschrund: 200–250 m up and to the right (loose rocks) along the steep broken ice-and-snow slope below the