Object 18548747

### Second ascent of Mramornaya Stena peak (6350 m) via the right western counterfort of the North-West ridge, grade 5A.

Ascent Log Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge, Bayankol valley, 7.17.06 Peak Marmor Wall (6350 m) via the right western counterfort of the Northwest ridge. Category 5A, second ascent. Route type: combined. Route elevation gain: 2650 m Route length: 4600 m Length of Category V sections — 930 m. Average slope Main part of the route 40° (4100 m – 6100 m)

Route passport for Category 5A climb to Peak Mramornaya Stena (6350 m) in the Central Tien Shan, ascended via the right Western counterfort of the Northwest ridge.

Passport Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge. Peak Marmorная стена (6350 m), via the right Western counterfort of the North-West ridge. Category 5A (third ascent). Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 2650 m; route length — 4600 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty: 900 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 40° (4200 m – 6100 m); — whole route — 37° (3700 m – 6350 m). Pitons left on the route: 4; including "drills": 1. Pitons used on the route: 10; including "drills": 8.

Report on the ascent of the Kazakhstan national team to the peak Mramornaya стена (Marble Wall) via the North Wall buttress, category 5A climb.

WORLD CUP HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Report of the national team of the Republic of Kazakhstan on the ascent of Mramornaya стена peak via the buttress of the North face, cat. dif. 5A Ascent Passport Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Bayankol, at the junction of the Meridionalny and Sarydzhas ridges, Name of the peak, route name: Mramornaya стена via the buttress of the North face Cat. dif.: 5A Route type: Combined Height difference of the route: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m

Description of the traverse of the Karlytau Peak and Marble Wall Peak summits in the Central Tian Shan, made by the team of the Central Sports Club of the Ministry of Defense of the Republic of Kazakhstan in 2001 via a new route of category 5B complexity.

Ascent Passport Central Tian Shan, Sarydzhan range, Marble Wall glacier. Traverse of peaks Karlytau (5450 m) – Marble Wall (6400 m) from Marble Wall glacier, first ascent. Submitted – 5B cat. diff. (tentative). Route character — combined. Route height difference — 2030 m. Route length – 4316 m. Length of sections: V cat. diff. – 2500 m, VI cat. diff. – 300 m. Average steepness: main part of the route (sections?) – 70°

Report on the ascent to **peak Karly-Tau** (5550 m) in 1968, made by a group from the Kazakh RS DSO *"Spartak"* under the leadership of *V. Popov*.

7.8.3 Climbing Report on Peak Karlytau (5550 m) in July 1968 Almaty Region 1968 INTRODUCTION From July 18 to August 20, 1968, an expedition from the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Sports Society was in the area of the North Inylchek Glacier, with the goal of traversing peaks Shater and Khan-Tengri. To reach the area of operation, it was necessary to cross the Sarydzhas Ridge from the Bayankol valley. The area around Peak Marble Wall is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. In 1965, while conducting the northern traverse of the Sarydzhas Ridge, the Kazakh "Spartak" team scouted the Tengri-Tag Ridge as a potential climbing objective. It was clear that the approach from the Bayankol valley to the North Inylchek Glacier was significantly shorter than the approach via Lake Merzbacher, but the Sarydzhas Ridge presented a difficult obstacle. The saddle between peaks Karly-Tau and Kazakhstan seemed the most accessible. A reconnaissance group of 8 people led by V. Popov was sent to scout and prepare the route across the ridge. The group, departing Almaty on July 18, arrived at the "green" camp under the moraine of the Marble Wall Glacier on July 20. Further, in fulfillment of their task, the group: Reached the watershed of the Sarydzhas Ridge via the northwest ridge of Peak Karly-Tau;