Bashkhauz, S. Ridge

The approach to the SW — Bashkhauz cirque — is similar to the previous description. Go through the cirque under the slopes of the S. ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass — the last saddle on the S ridge. 3–4 hours from the hut. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of destroyed rocks, simultaneously with belay on the protrusions, to the steep rocky ascent. Here:

• Traverse left 20 m.
• Then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along the destroyed rocks (attention! — rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE — shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. About 1 hour from the pass. The descent from the summit is along the SW ridge according to the previous description. Hazardous areas:
• on the Bezengi glacier — crevasses and rockfall hazard from the S slopes of the peak

5. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via SW ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "crescent-shaped" moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention - closed crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of Peak Warsaw), bypassing the bases of three S spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz-bashi, along the cirque under the slopes of the SW ridge. From the hut 2.5–3 hours. Through the bergschrund, along the left side of the snow slope, bounded on the right by a rocky buttress of the ridge (attention - rockfall hazard on the right side), onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge with rock outcrops, with simultaneous belay on protrusions and bends of the ridge to the summit.

• From the glacier - 1.5 hours.
• Descent along the ascent route to the glacier 1 hour, and then to the hut about 1 hour.

6. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via S ridge.

The approach to the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz is similar to the previous description. Traverse the cirque under the slopes of the S ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass - the last col in the S ridge. From the hut 3–4 hours. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of broken rocks, with simultaneous belay on protrusions, to a steep rocky ascent. Here, traverse left 20 m and then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along broken rocks (attention! - rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. From the pass about 1 hour. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge according to the previous description.

Башхауз, from the ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“crescent-shaped”) moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) exit to the upper circus and through it (attention — hidden crevasses) — under the slopes with the Bash-a-uz-b ridge. To the right of the rocky outcrops from the glacier along the slopes with the ridge to the left to the talus counterforce coming from the pass. Go around the base of the counterforce from the left, ascend from it along the S slope. Along the ridge of the counterforce, then 30–40 m along the ice drop wall (steepness 50–60°) and along the flattening snowy slope under the Sella pass, 4–5 hours from the hut. From the pass along the S ridge simultaneously to the summit of the 1st “gendarme” (control tour), then down 30–40 m along the rocky shelves to the snowy slope and bypassing the 2nd “gendarme” to the right — to the ridge. The 3rd “gendarme” — head-on or to the right, and along the snowy ridge (attention — possible cornices to the left) through small rocky “gendarme” head-on to the summit. 3–4 hours from the pass. Descent from the summit:

• along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle,
• then to the left along the right side of the snowy slope (rockfall hazard from the left),
• to the Bezengi glacier and along it (attention
• Hidden crevasses, under the slopes of the Warsaw peak rockfall hazard — bypassing

Ба­ш­хауз, 3 контр­фор­са с греб­ня. From the “Djangi-kosh” hut along the crest of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the crest of the counterfort with small rocky walls, then along the N crest to the right to the summit. From the start of the route 6–8 hours. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle, left along the right edge (attention - stonefall hazard on the left) of the snowy slope to the Bezengi glacier and along it (cautiously: closed crevasses, stonefall hazard under the S slopes of peak Вар­ша­ва) bypassing the S spurs of the Sella - Вар­ша­ва ridge to the hut. From the summit 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas:

• On the glaciers - hazardous closed crevasses and stonefall hazard under the S slopes of peak Вар­ша­ва
• On the snow-ice slope to the right of the counterfort - stonefall hazard
• On the N crest - possible cornices on the left
• When descending from the SW ridge - stonefall hazard on the left side of the slope. Special equipment:
• Rock pitons - 7–8 pcs.

Bashkhaauz, 3rd buttress of SW ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or in the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) to the upper cirque and through it directly (attention — hidden crevasses) to the base of the most extensive buttress of the SW ridge of Bashkhaauz (fig. 3). From the hut 1.5–2.5 hours. The snow slope above the bergschrund — straight up under the protection of the rock walls at the base of the buttress, then along the boundary with the rocks on the left of the buttress to the first talus ledge with snow and along it to the right on the ridge. Along a straightforward ridge for 40 m to the black wall with exfoliating rocks, then traverse left for 20 m to the “finger”, straight up for 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty and slabs to the base of the yellow

R5 R4 R3 R2 R1 R0

2. Varschava peak — Sella peak, traverse.

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, cross the crescent-shaped moraine, reach the Bezengi glacier and move along the "pocket" between the zone of marginal crevices and the S. slopes of Varschava peak until the glacier flattens out for 30–40 minutes (watch out! — prone to rockfall from the left, hidden crevices). To the left is a wide snow couloir, bounded on the right by the S. ridge of Varschava peak. Follow the snow on the left side of the couloir, then:

• left across the broken rocks
• up the narrow snowy couloir (if icy — along the rocky ridge to the left of the couloir)
• to the saddle on the SW ridge with a cairn. From the hut — 2 hours. From the saddle, move to the right or along the ridge line simultaneously with protection on the ridge's protrusions and bends. The rocky ascent of the ridge before the summit is bypassed on the left along an inclined ledge with piton protection, then 30 m of easy rocks. From the saddle to Varschava peak — 2 hours. From the summit, descend simultaneously along the easy, gentle rocky ridge to a dip. Descend into the dip with a double rope pull or with the last person using piton protection, then continue simultaneously along the ridge to its lowest point. The ascent to Sella peak initially follows a broken rocky, then a gentle, gradually widening snowy ridge. From here, in adverse weather conditions, it is possible to abandon the route along the S. spur — ridge. From the junction with the spur:
• simultaneously along the sharp snowy ridge with rock outcrops,

130. Lakutsa via the West Ridge — slope (the route is combined, category 2B, fig. 20, 22). From the village of Jabiashi upstream along the trail on the left bank of the Tsanner River. Go around the tongue of the Tsanner Glacier and the first stage of the icefall, then descend onto the glacier. Go upstream along the glacier to beneath the second stage of the icefall, which is climbed on the left side. Then traverse the glacier up and to the right and approach the icefall of the Nagebski Glacier. Having climbed the icefall, exit onto the upper plateau of the glacier via a glaciated area (closed crevasses) onto the medial moraine — the Nagebskie Ploshchadki. Bivouac. From the village of Jabiashi 10–14 hours. From the moraine, traverse the plateau to beneath the right side of the saddle connecting Tetnuld with

8. Two Boitsa Peaks via the 3rd Ridge

From the Djangi-kosh hut, across the "sickle-shaped" moraine, onto the Bezengi Glacier, along the left (as you move) side of the glacier (watch out for covered crevices and rockfall from the southern slopes of Pik Varsavia), bypassing the bases of the three southern spurs of the main Varsavia - Sella ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-auza. Between the end of the southern ridge of Bashkha-auza and Pik Kamnepadnyi, the SW cirque glacier has a branch to the SE into the Dykh-su gorge. Here, exit onto the rocks at the end of the southern ridge, with a slight loss of height traverse the ridges going in the SE direction, and descend into the SE cirque of Bashkha-auza. Through the cirque, under the slopes of the eastern ridge of Bashkha-auza and further up to Spartiak Pass — the snowy saddle closest to the peak. From the hut, 4–5 hours. From the pass, east along the sharp snowy ridge (possible cornices on the north side) with two small "gendarme" peaks, ascent to the rocky summit of the 1st Boitsa. Descent to the SE along the rocky ridge, then left and down the destroyed and snow-covered rocks (watch out for rockfall) onto a wide snowy saddle of the ridge. In adverse weather conditions, it is possible to leave the route here, going left onto the Krumkol Glacier, and return to Spartiak Pass via the glacier. From the saddle, across two snowy "gendarme" peaks and along the sharp snowy ridge to the start of the rocky inner corner. With piton belay, 10–12 m up to the right, then left and up the steep snowy slope onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge to the saddle and from it, up the steep snow-ice pitch with piton belay to the summit of the 2nd Boitsa. From Spartiak Pass, 4–5 hours. Descent and return via the ascent route. To Spartiak Pass, 2–3 hours and then 1.5–2 hours.

Two fighters of the peak. Sparta Pass