Корона

Ice section length: 680 m Ice slope angle: 55–60 degrees 80 m traverse across a snow slope, then a couloir with broken terrain 120 m long, angle 40–50 degrees. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is heavily broken and protection is unreliable. In winter the couloir is filled with snow - deep trail breaking uphill. Then turn left onto rock. Grade III rock 90 m, angle 50–60 degrees. Protection on passive gear, belay stations on ledges. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is broken. Move from the couloir right to left in the direction of the summit. Descent via rappel bolts to the upper snowfield of the Korona Glacier, below the bergschrund, and then on foot to the Korona hut.

In autumn 2025, two ice streams formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The first ascent of the right stream (rated 5A in the Russian classification) was made by Aleksandr Parfyonov's team in early 2026. The first ascent of the left stream was made by Konstantin Markevich with Aleksey Pototskiy in the second half of March 2026. Further, according to Aleksey: Last year was very hot in July. And as a result of this circumstance, two new routes formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The charm of these routes is that this year or next, such conditions may not happen, and these routes may not exist. But while they are there - we have to climb 😁 And we did. One route was climbed by Parfyonov with a partner in February, and the second one - Kostya Markevich and I last week. Honest 5B and this is the coolest ice in the area. The icicle itself is 170 m of 87-degree lace cascade ice. And before that, there's another 30 meters of A3 ice climbing. The lower part is 450 m of gentle ice at 55-70 degrees. Work on the route

Video guide to the "Мобильных" route (5A) to the first Korona tower by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the "Мобильных" route (5A) on the first tower of the Crown by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the 3A route to the first tower of the Crown by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the 3A route to the first tower of the Crown by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the Gavrilov's route (4A) on the peak Korona by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the Gavrilov's route (4A) on peak Korona by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the Barbar route (5B, ice climbing) on Peak Svobodnaya Korona by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the Barbera Route (5B, ice climbing) on Pik Svobodnoy Korei by Dima Pavlenko.

Report on the passage of a category 3B route to Peak Korona (3rd) 4700 m via the western glacier in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range of Tian Shan.

p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m Report Of the joint team of Tomsk, Kemerovo regions and St. Petersburg on the ascent to p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m via the western glacier "3B", (sl) Participants: Temerev I.M., Suzdaltsev E.E., Kashevnil A.A. I. Ascent Details | № | 1. General Information | | | :----- | :-------------------------------------------------- | :--------------------------------------------------------------------- |

Description of the route to Peak Kosmonavtov, including technical information and photographs of key stages of the ascent.

Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Path to Pik Kosmonavtov

A description of the ascent route to the summit Svobodnaya Korea, located in the mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria, with details of the approach and technical features of the climb.

Fig. 1. Ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea (general view)