Akhsu glacier

Glacier2.19 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent to Peak Profsouyuzov via the South-west ridge, category 3A, with a description of the route and necessary equipment.

  1. Peak Profsoyuzov via Southwest Ridge (L. Yurasov's route, category 3A) The path from the Shkhielda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the snowy plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Akhsu glacier with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's Overnight Stay" is described in routes 72 and 80. Up the plateau to the left is the exit to the ice-snow saddle of the ridge between the peaks Bivuchny and Fizkulturnik — Bivuchny Pass. From the plateau:
  • Overcoming the bergschrund,
  • Up the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches!) — ascent to Bivuchny Pass. From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" — 6–7 hours. From the pass:
  • Turn left,
  • Exit under the rock wall of Bivuchny Peak,
  • Along the edge of ice and rocks — 40–50-meter traverse under the wall to the left to the rocky-snowy Western Buttress of the peak.
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Pik Profsoyuzov, category of complexity 2B, height 2050 m, is located in the Main Caucasian Range, description of the ascent route.

Peak Profsoyuzov!

PRK Profsoyuzov.

Cat. diff. 2B.

Summit elevation 2050 m.

The summit is located in the Main Caucasian Range, on the same ridge as the peaks Pkhola-Tau. Near the peak Profsoyuzov are located the following peaks:

  • to the southeast — Pkhola-Tau
  • to the northwest — Psentiba-shi
  • a nameless peak above the Akh-Tsu pass
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Ascent to Pik Profsoyuzov via the Eastern ridge from the north (cat. 2B) from Alpiniad base "Shkhelda" through Shkhelda Glacier and col between Pik Profsoyuzov and Shkhelda West summit.

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From the Shkhelda a/b, up the right slope of the Shkhelda valley trapezoid, first through the forest, then through the grassy slopes to the Shkhelda glacier. 300 m above the glacier tongue, exit to its surface moraine. Along the moraine, sticking to the right bank of the glacier, go about 500 m upstream along the gorge, then exit to the right onto the trail. Along the trail on the grassy slope, the ascent along the glacier to the clearing at the rocks with black stripes — Aristov bivouac. On the clearing there is a bivouac. From the Shkhelda alp camp — 3.5–4 hours. From Aristov bivouac, go to the Aksu glacier — the right tributary of Shkhelda — and up it. Having passed the right branch of the Aksu glacier falling into it with an icefall, exit after the turn to the icefall of the main (left) branch of the Aksu glacier, lying in a narrow rocky gorge. Pass the icefall in the center or bypass it to the right along the moraine (a longer and more dangerous path due to falling stones!). Beyond the icefall:

  • ascent along the center of the glacier,
  • ascent along the ice-snow ascent (crevasses!) to the snow plateau of the upper circus of the left branch of the Aksu glacier. Move up the plateau — to the right to the snowy slope rising to the North-Eastern ridge of the Aksu peak. Along the slope — ascent to the ridge (bivouac site). From the sites on the ridge — exit to the upper circus of the right branch of the Aksu glacier. Along the snow plateau of the upper circus of the right branch, go to the left and, without losing height, shift to the Aksu pass. From Aristov bivouac — 7–8 hours. On the pass, turn left to the Western ridge of the Aksu peak. Along simple, heavily destroyed rocks of the Western ridge with small scree and rocky ascents of gendarmes, passable head-on, ascent to the Aksu peak. From the Aksu pass — 2.5–3 hours.
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А­Х­SУ via Western ridge, cat. 2А From the CSP:

  • go up along the trail on the slope of the «Shkhelda gorge» — first through the forest, then along the grassy slopes — to the Shkhelda glacier;
  • 300 m above the glacier's tongue, exit onto its lateral moraine;
  • follow the moraine, keeping to the right bank of the glacier, and move about 500 m up the gorge;
  • then exit to the right onto the trail;
  • ascend along the trail on the grassy slope along the glacier to the clearing near the rocks with black stripes — Aristov's bivouac.
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