№ 45

Glacier0.82 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Nikolaeva (4900 m) via the Eastern Edge, categorized as 3B difficulty level, including technical characteristics and path features.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Class. 2. Pamir-Alai, horseshoe of Cosmonauts 3. Nikolaeva Peak, height 4900, ascent along the Eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of the section: 5 cat. diff. — 8 m 4 cat. diff. — 50 m

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Description of a 5A category complexity route to Peak Nikolaev (4900 m) in the Pamir-Alay via the NE wall central bastion with details of the passage and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical. 2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge. 3. Peak Nikolaeva (4900 m) via the central bastion of the NE wall. 4. Category 5A difficulty. 5. Height difference 540 m, average steepness — about 70°. 6. 96 pitons driven. Rock — 85 Ice — 11 Bolts — 0

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Description of the first ascent via the north wall of Popovich Peak in the Pamir-Alay, made in 1977 by Dnipropetrovsk climbers.

At the 1977 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Peak Popovich (approximately 4800 m)

Alaisky ridge, Pamir-Alai, Cosmonauts' Horseshoe. (first ascent) Combined team of Dnipropetrovsk regional council of the Spartak Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports Petrychenko N.N. Participants:

  • Candidate Master of Sports Protsenko L.V.
  • Zurabishvili Z.D.
  • Rybalka K.P. Dnipropetrovsk — 1977
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Ascent certificate for Peak Popovich (4800 m) via the North wall, category 5 difficulty in Pamir-Alay.

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents. 2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Kosmonavtov Horseshoe. 3. Peak Popovich (approximately 4800 m) via the North Face. 4. 5th category of difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 420 m. b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 405 m. c) average steepness — 80–85°. 6. Number of pitons driven for belaying and creating R.A.P. (Rope Anchorage Points): a) rock pitons — 89. b) ice screws — 7. c) bolt pitons — 3. 7. Number of climbing hours — 26.

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Description of the ascent route to Popovich Peak (4800 m) via the North-Eastern edge, difficulty category 5B, Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge.
  3. Peak — Popovich Peak, height 4800 m, via the North-Eastern ridge.
  4. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 800 m;
    • length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 310 m;
    • average steepness — 55°.
  5. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of the ascent route to Titov Peak via the northern counterfort, complexity category 4B, with details of passage and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents 2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Podkova Kosmonavtov. 3. Titov Peak (approximately 4800 m) via the northern counterfort. 4. 4B category of difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 700 m; b) length of section with IV–V category of difficulty 350 m; c) average steepness 53°. 6. Pitons hammered for belay and creating ITO:

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Traversing six peaks of the Altai Range: Suyen Peak, Tereshkova Peak, Bykovsky Peak, Popovich Peak, Nikolaev Peak, Gagarin Peak, category of difficulty 5A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: traverse.
  2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Altai ridge: Kok-Su valley.
  3. Traverse of peaks: Sons 4950 m — Tereshkova 4870 m — Bykovsky 4840 m — Popovich 4800 m — Nikolaev 4900 m — Gagarin 4850 m.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1330 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m, average steepness.
  6. Pitons used for passage: Rock pitons — 67, ice pitons — none.
  7. Total hours of climbing — 34.5.
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