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Route Description: Единичка
Route guide to the summit of Kush-Kaya in Crimea via the South-West wall and inner corner, category 1B complexity.
Ascent Certificate
- Rock climbing category
- Region: Crimea, Batiliman
- Peak: Kush-Kaya
- Route: Via the Southwest wall and internal angle (classic)
- Difficulty category: 1B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 440 m, length — 550 m, average steepness — 55°
- Pitons used: rock — 8
- Duration: ascent — 2.5 hours,
Route Description: Через горловину левой чаши
The ascent route to the top of Kush-Kaya in Crimea via the West wall and West ridge through the "neck of the bowl", category of difficulty 2B, length 600 m, elevation gain 440 m.
Ascent Passport
I. Type: Rock climbing II. Region: Crimea, Batiliman III. Summit: Kush-Kaya IV. Route: Via the Southwest wall and Southwest ridge through the "gorge of the bowl" V. Climbing category: 2B VI. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 440 m, length — 600 m, average slope — 47° VII. Protection used: 8 pieces VIII. Duration: 2 hours; descent via trail — 0.5 hours IX. Ascent leader: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports
Route Description: Подошва справа
Route of the 4B category of complexity via the West face of the Kuš-Kaja peak in Crimea, first winter ascent in 1995.
Ascent Passport
- Rock class
- Region Crimea, Batiliman
- Peak Kush-Kaya
- Route via the Southwest wall through the "sole" on the right
- Cat. diff. 4B, first ascent
- Route characteristics: height difference — 440 m. length — 510 m. average steepness — 60°
- Used rock pitons — 6 pcs.
Route Description: Кольцо
Description of the "Ring" route (5A, F6a) on Kush-Kaya mountain in Crimea with a detailed analysis of the ascent stages.
Kush-Kaya, Kol'tso route, 5A, F6a
The beginning of the route to point R4 is shared with the routes:
- "Krokodil" (V cat. diff.)
- "Shkuroder" (V cat. diff.)
- "Po tsentru cherez kusty" (II–III cat. diff.)
The route starts from a large ledge ("first football field"), located above
the lower belt of rocks. The ledge is distinguished by the red rocks hanging above it.
Crimea. Kush-Kaya, Kol'tso route, 5A, F6a
Route Description: Рыбка
Details of the "Fish" route, category 5A, on the South wall of Kuš-Kan peak in Crimea, including passage details and required equipment.
Ascent Passport
- Rock climbing category
- Region: Crimea, Batiliman
- Peak: Kush-Kaya
- Route: via South wall, "rybka" (The Fish)
- Category of difficulty: 5A
- Route description: height difference — 390 m, length — 460 m, average steepness — 58°
- Equipment used: rock pitons — 18 pcs, nuts — 2 pcs
- Climbing time — 6 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours
- Climbing leader: Udovitsa Aleksandr Viktorovich, participant: Vorobyov Mikhail Yuryevich
Route Description: Интеграл
Description of the "integral" route, category 5A difficulty, on the southeastern wall of Kuш-Kaya peak in Crimea, including technical information and required equipment.
Ascent Passport
I. Rock class 2. Region Crimea, Batiliman 3. Peak Kush-Kaya 4. Route through the center of the Southeast wall, "integral" 5. Complexity category 5A 6. Route characteristics: height difference — 290 m length — 320 m average steepness — 65° 7. Used pitons: rock — 12 pcs.
Route Description: Штаны, левый
Description of the 6A category complexity route to the top of Kush-Kaya in Crimea, 440 m long with a height difference of 370 m.
Ascent Passport
- Type: Rock climbing
- Region: Crimea, Batiliman
- Peak: Kush-Kaya
- Route: via South wall, "pants" via left pant leg
- Difficulty category: 6A
- Route characteristics: Height difference — 370 m, length — 440 m. Average steepness — 58°
- Equipment used: Rock pitons — 13 pcs, nuts — 20 pcs
- Duration: 7 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours
- Ascent leader: YArunov Aleksandr Georgievich, 2nd sports category, participant: Nesterov Vitold Petrovich, 1st sports category
Route Description: Справа от Варежки
New route "To the right of Varezhka" on Kush-Kaya, complexity category 5B, description of the ascent and key points of the route.
Kush — Kaia-13. Right of Va‑rezh‑ka
R0–R1. (35–40 m) The start of the route is 10 m to the left of the "Le‑vaia shtani‑na" route.
- From the shelf, move left and up 10 m — easy climbing
- Exit onto a small ledge under an overhanging chimney with grass
- Up the chimney for 7 m on aid climbing
- Further up through an inclined inner corner to a large tree — easy climbing
- Exit onto a large ledge, where the "Va‑rezh‑ka" route from the left and "Le‑vaia shtani‑na" route from the right converge R1–R2. (25–30 m)
- From the large tree, traverse right along the ledge for 10 m
Route Description: Пасхальная
New route "Paskhalnaya" (Easter) 2A category of complexity on Mt. Merdven-Kaya in Crimea, first ascent via the south-eastern wall and southern ridge.
Crimea, Mt. Merdven-Kaya. Route via the southeast wall and south ridge — “Paskhalnaya” (2A cat.)
One day, Sitnik M.A. took a look at a new guidebook to the Crimean Mountains, brought to him by Lavrinenko A., and was horrified — “We don’t have many 2A routes. This is a disorder! We need to fix this somehow.” That's when I came up with my project, and it was a go. I had been itching to traverse the ridge I had discovered during a photo shoot in the area, but I didn’t know how to approach it. I showed it to Mikhal Sanych, he took a look at this mess, and said, “Why don’t you try it this way?” and we gave it a shot. It seemed to work out okay.
Out of all the variety of equipment, my partner and I didn’t bring the following on our ascent:
- ladders
- platforms
- jumar
- rope for handrails We had to make do with:
- a set of small- and medium-sized protection gear
Route Description: Муси-Пуси
The "Musi-Pusi" route, category 2B, to the top of Merdven-Kayas peak, passing along the Western counterfort of the Western wall, with a detailed description of the ascent and seven sections.
Merdven-Kayasa — 1. "Musi-Pusi"
Massif: Merdven-Kayasa (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 2B IV Author: Savelyev (Simferopol) A. Lavrinenko
Year of creation: 2004 Number of pitches: 7 Route description: The route goes along the Western counterfort of the Western wall.
Approach:
- From the start of the trail to the "Chertova lestnitsa" pass, follow the upper road towards Yalta for about 700 m
- On the parapet to the right, there will be an inscription in green paint "Krym"
- From here, left along the trail through the forest under the wall The start of the route is marked. R0–R1: 30 m. Along the bushy corner — a crag onto a shelf, then up simple rocks, and left onto a ledge. Belay station. II