REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PANORAMNY (PANORAMA) PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE AUSB UZUNKOL TEAM FROM STAVROPOL August 16, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

42. Adyr­su via the North­ern counterfort of the West­ern edge (combined route by Yu. Kuz­netsov, 3B cat. diff., fig. 5, 6). The path from the “Ullu­tau” al­plager (group of 4–8 people) to the upper pla­teau of the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier with the initial bi­vouac on the left-bank mo­re­ne of the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier is de­scri­bed in route 43. In the upper part of the cir­que, cross the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier (clo­sed cre­vasses) and ap­proach un­der the slope of the ice-and-snow cou­loir on the left side — at the base of the North­ern counterfort of the West­ern edge of Adyr­su peak. From the initial bi­vouac, 1.5–2 hours. From the gla­cier, after pas­sing the berg­schrund:

• 40 m up steep easy rocks on the right side of the ice-and-snow cou­loir,
• then tra­verse 40 m up — left through this cou­loir,

185. Asmashi Peak via the West Ridge (combined route, Tomasheka, Cat. 3B, Fig. 24, 27). From the Asmashi Pass (170 m) turn right and ascend a steep snow-and-ice slope with rock outcrops on the right side of the North Buttress (cornices, protection) of Asmashi's West Ridge onto the shoulder of the West Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow a gently sloping, simple, long, in places narrow snow-covered (cornices) rocky West Ridge («live» rocks, protection); surmount the I and II gendarmes on steep moderately difficult rocks («live» rocks, pitons) and ascend a snow-and-ice slope to the summit of Asmashi. 6–7 hr from the Asmashi Pass.

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, North-West spur from the Bodorku peak of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak, route: Peak 3820 m (Peak Acad. I.P. Bardin) via N-W wall.
4. Expected category: 4A–4B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1425 m
   • including 445 m of actual wall section
   • total route length — 1615 m
   • wall section length — 511 m
   • of which: 3 — 105 m

July 28, 1981 To the Judging Committee for the Caucasus Alpine Championship among alpine camps and tourist clubs. Copy: To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation.

Conclusion

On the ascent of the "Bashil" peak by the team from the "Ullutau" alpine camp as part of the 1st Caucasus Alpine Camps Championship 1981.

1. The route of the first ascent to the "Bashil" peak via the south wall was completed by the team in accordance with the Alpine Competition Rules and the Championship Regulations.
2. The route corresponds to the claimed route and matches the one marked on the photograph in the application.
3. The name of the route in the application — "Bashil" via the center of the south wall — should be changed as follows: — "Bashil" via the right part of the bastion of the south wall.
4. Team composition: according to the application, the following team members started the route:

Dea­lyk 0-yuga to WB through the glacier 3B cat. sl.

Ae­bou

The path from the "Dea­lyk" a/l to the bridge, then along the right bank of the Kullum-Kol river to the terminal moraine, along which they ascend and exit onto glacier 10. Pnom-Su, then along its right (orographic) side to the confluence of glaciers 3. and 10. Pnom-Su. The glacier is open, with few crevices. Further from the Kichkid. camps, located at the confluence of glaciers:

• along the tongue of glacier 3. Pnom-Su to the e. Kichkid. camps.
• From the E. K. camps — the path is in the direction of Donkin pass along simple snowy ascents.