Activity Feed
Route Description: 3 гребню
Route passport for Peak Albov via the western ridge, 2nd category of difficulty, describing the path, technical details, and safety assessment.
2.1.
Peak Albova, 3rd ridge Fleer L.A. Western Caucasus 2.1.
PASSPORT
- Rock climbing category
- Western Caucasus, Atsyuk Ridge
- Peak Albova via the western ridge
- Proposed category 3B, first ascent
- Elevation gain 700 m, length 1200 m, average slope of the main part of the route 40°
- Pitons driven 2
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the first ascent of Velingrad Peak (3140 m) via the North-Eastern Ridge, category 1B in Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent type: rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh Pass.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD PEAK, 3160 m, via the north-eastern ridge.
- Estimated difficulty category: 1B.
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 410 m, average steepness: 30° Route length:
Route Description: СЗ ребру
Description of the first ascent route to the peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (3398 m) in the Western Caucasus, category of difficulty 2A.
I. Climbing category — rock
- Climbing area — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofia and Psysh rivers.
- Peak, route — peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (proposed by the first ascenders), 3398 m, via the NW buttress and ridge.
- Estimated difficulty category — 2A 163 pr. 499
- Route description — rock, via the buttress with a transition to the ridge, elevation gain — 590 m, average steepness — 40°.
- Pitons driven — 3 rock pitons for protection.
- Number of climbing hours — from the start of the route to the summit tower 4 hours (group of 6 people).
- Number of nights — not required on the route.
- Climbing leader: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to Alibek-bashi peak (3782 m) via glacier and rocky-ice slopes, complexity category, equipment and belay recommendations.
Alibek-bashi
Fig. 15
Ascent to the summit of Alibek-bashi (3782 m) - by difficulty category (Fig. 15)
From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail to Alibeksky glacier to the rocks of Razdelny peak — bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) left-upwards, bypassing crevasses of the icefall and exit to the gentle part of the glacier. Depending on the state of the glacier, further ascent to the rocky spur of the Ertzog peak and left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi or in the middle of the glacier upwards, then left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi. Then through the bergschrund and ascent
Route Description: С стене
A description of the ascent route of 3B category of difficulty to the Alibek-Bashi summit via the northern wall in the Western Caucasus.
Climbing Passport
- Type of ascent — rock climbing
- Climbing area — Main Caucasus Range from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass (Western Caucasus)
- Peak, its height, Alibek-Bashi peak (3782 m). Ascent route via the North face
- Estimated difficulty category — 3B
- Route characteristics:
- Elevation gain — 420 m
- Average steepness — 60°
- Pitons hammered — 6 rock pitons
- Number of climbing hours — 8–9 hours
Route Description: с Домбайского седла
Ascent to the summit Main Dombay-Ulgen from Dombay saddle via the northern edge, category of complexity 3B, route description and recommendations.
Fig. 43
1. Ascent to the summit Main Domбай-Ulgen (4040 m) from Domбай Saddle (via the northern edge) — 3Б category of difficulty (Fig. 43 and 44, left)
From Domбай clearing along the trail, to the right of Chuchkhur waterfalls, to Ptysh overnight stay. From Domбай to Ptysh overnight stay 3–4 hours. From Ptysh overnight stay along the trail to the left — up to the left-bank moraine of Domбай glacier. Along the moraine to the rocks to the left onto the snow and through the "barany lby" to the right-bank moraine (glacier collapse is possible!). Then exit to the left side of the glacier. Further ascent along the left side of the glacier, after 300 m transition to the right onto the rocky ridge, along the scree and destroyed rocks into a narrow crumbly couloir and along it to the Domбай Saddle. From Ptysh overnight stay 4 hours. From the saddle upwards (in bundles!) along the scree and несложным rocks to the steep 20-meter ascent, which is bypassed to the right along steep inclined plates (hook insurance!). Further along the right side of the ridge to the yellow ascent, which is passed first from the left, and then from the right. Further path along the ridge. Further:
- Subsequent two ascents are bypassed along the shelf to the right
Route Description: 3 ребру
Ascent to the summit of **Domбай** via the Western Counterfort, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed description of the route and its characteristics.
Ascent Passport
- Class — rock climbing
- Area — Main Caucasian Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
- Peak — Dombay (3), 4039 m, via Western counterfort.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B
- Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1470 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 315 m, average steepness 55°
- Pitons driven: rock (including chocks) — for belay — 94
- Climbing hours — 27
Route Description: с юго-востока
Ascent to Marukh-bashi (3798 m) via the South-Eastern Ridge: a description of a challenging route with recommendations for climbers.
Fig. 3
1. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit (3798 m) via the southeastern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 3A)
From the bivouac on the South Karakay glacier — ascend to the saddle in the southern ridge between the Marukh-kaya and Marukh-bashi peaks. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and then ascend a steep snowy slope for 150–170 m (belay!) to a rocky outcrop, and on its left side, reach the snowy slope above the rocky outcrop. Ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 55–60° for 130–150 m (belay!), exit onto the ridge to the right of the first gendarme, and then continue along the ridge to the second gendarme. To ascend the second gendarme, initially climb straight up (slabby rocks, piton belay!), then traverse 8–10 m under the top of the gendarme to the left along ledges, and