Ascent Log

(Third Ascent)

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range from Ktlod Pass to Gezhevtsek Pass.
3. Ascent route — Tsurungal via the southeast wall (4222 m) – Central Nезнакомка (4100 m) – Bolshaya Nезнакомка (4200 m).
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1980 m, length of 5th-6th difficulty sections — 720 m, average steepness (excluding the ridge part) — 65–70°.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Range south from Kittlod pass to Gezevtsék pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Chyornaya Neznakomka, 4100 m, via the right South counterfort of the Eastern ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1400 m, length of sections with 5th–6th difficulty category — 310 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered in:

Fig. 3. 2. Chutkharo Western peak via Western ridge (rocky route, A. Naumova, category III difficulty, fig. 2, 3). At the grassy col (point 1), turn right and ascend a wide grassy slope, talus, and easy rocks to the Western ridge of Chutkharo Western peak, to the right of its first pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right via easy rocks. Then, proceed along easy rocks and large talus of the Western ridge to approach the second pinnacle, which is bypassed on the left via ledges. Traverse the simple, rocky, and rugged Western ridge, overcoming or bypassing numerous pinnacles, to reach a narrow saddle.

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XXX USSR Alpine Climbing Championship — Rock Climbing Category — Central Caucasus, Skalisty Ridge REPORT OF THE ARMED FORCES TEAM ON THE ASCENT OF AK-KAYA PEAK VIA THE CENTRAL BASTION OF THE SOUTHEAST FACE

1. Mikhailov A.A. — team leader and coach — Master of Sports
2. Evsyukov G.K. — deputy leader — Candidate for Master of Sports
3. Baychenko Yu.P. — participant — Master of Sports
4. Sarkisov L.A. — participant — Candidate for Master of Sports — Route of the Baksan Alpine Camp team — Route of the Instructors' School team — Route of the USSR Armed Forces team

PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of peak Borovikov (4880 m) via NE wall, category 5B difficulty Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge. Elevation gain 1800 m Route length 3040 m Average slope 42° Route character combined Section lengths:

• 5 — 285 m
• 6 — 50 m Team's moving hours – 32; days – 3

Descending from the North ridge of peak Brno. After narrowing of the couloir - transition to its right side and up. From the place of couloir bifurcation - ascent via its right branch, then to the right and via easy rocks to the Central counterfort. From the trail - 2–3 hours. Via medium difficulty rocks (in rope teams!) on the left side of the counterfort:

• 200 m upwards,
• then transition to its right side,
• via a snowslope ascent towards the wall of the North ridge. From the couloir - 2–3 hours. Via steep medium difficulty rocks:
• 45–50 m straight up,

2. Gidan via SE ridge, 2A

The ascent to the upper cirque of Gidan from the “Ukyu-kosh” hut is done according to the previous description. Move along the "pocket", then cross over to the right-bank moraine at the confluence with the slope, descend into the cirque, approach the slopes of the SE ridge along the left edge of the cirque and ascend to its saddle — 2.5–3 hours. From the KSP "Golubyatnya" shelter, it is advisable to head to the upper cirque by moving along the slopes of the left south counterfort of Mt. Ukyu M. From the saddle, proceed left, strictly along the line of the rocky ridge with protection on rock outcrops (caution! — do not deviate onto the ledges to the right of the ridge — the rocks are heavily deteriorated and outcrops are unreliable). A 6-meter rock wall in the middle section of the ridge is climbed directly via a crack with piton protection. The pre-summit "gendarme" is bypassed on the left via rocks (caution — heavily deteriorated), then 20 m up and right to the summit. From the saddle, 1–1.5 hours. Descent is done via the 3rd ridge as per the previous description. Hazardous areas: deteriorated rocks on the 3rd slope of the pre-summit "gendarme".

8. Two Boitsa Peaks via the 3rd Ridge

From the Djangi-kosh hut, across the "sickle-shaped" moraine, onto the Bezengi Glacier, along the left (as you move) side of the glacier (watch out for covered crevices and rockfall from the southern slopes of Pik Varsavia), bypassing the bases of the three southern spurs of the main Varsavia - Sella ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-auza. Between the end of the southern ridge of Bashkha-auza and Pik Kamnepadnyi, the SW cirque glacier has a branch to the SE into the Dykh-su gorge. Here, exit onto the rocks at the end of the southern ridge, with a slight loss of height traverse the ridges going in the SE direction, and descend into the SE cirque of Bashkha-auza. Through the cirque, under the slopes of the eastern ridge of Bashkha-auza and further up to Spartiak Pass — the snowy saddle closest to the peak. From the hut, 4–5 hours. From the pass, east along the sharp snowy ridge (possible cornices on the north side) with two small "gendarme" peaks, ascent to the rocky summit of the 1st Boitsa. Descent to the SE along the rocky ridge, then left and down the destroyed and snow-covered rocks (watch out for rockfall) onto a wide snowy saddle of the ridge. In adverse weather conditions, it is possible to leave the route here, going left onto the Krumkol Glacier, and return to Spartiak Pass via the glacier. From the saddle, across two snowy "gendarme" peaks and along the sharp snowy ridge to the start of the rocky inner corner. With piton belay, 10–12 m up to the right, then left and up the steep snowy slope onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge to the saddle and from it, up the steep snow-ice pitch with piton belay to the summit of the 2nd Boitsa. From Spartiak Pass, 4–5 hours. Descent and return via the ascent route. To Spartiak Pass, 2–3 hours and then 1.5–2 hours.

Passport

of the ascent made in the championship of the Caucasian Territorial Administration of alp camps. I. Class of ascent: technical. 2. Area of ascent: Central Caucasus, Bezengi. 4. Expected category of difficulty: 5A 5. Characteristics of the route: total height difference of the route — 1850 m, route length — 2750 m. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 1440 m, average steepness of the wall section — 50°. 6. Number of pitons driven: