Morcheka — 23

Author: Ivan Ershov, Moscow. "Variant" route, 6+ cat. (Mt. Morcheka, November 1986, I. Ershov) From the parking spot under the wall (in the cirque), follow the path under the right part of Mt. Morcheka's wall. The route starts to the right of two characteristic pine trees, the right one of which touches the wall with its top — about 10 meters to the right of the second pine. From the sloping shelf (slab), go straight up to a bolt (aid climbing), then up and slightly left along a blind crack. Characteristic features:

• pilasters;
• only with aid climbing;
• extremely careful;
• block placements;
• constructions like stopper + piton;
• small-sized stoppers.

The "Victoria" route (2B) was laid on Mshatka Kaya mountain on May 10, 2011 by a team from Luhansk: Alexander Khoroshevsky and Nikita Popov. The overall impression of the route is a beautiful and logical double pitch, with pleasant and varied technical climbing, after which you want to express gratitude to the authors of the route for 2 reasons:

• the line turned out to be really beautiful,
• to spot the route on the wall, which is already oversaturated with other lines, you need to have talent. "Victoria" passes between the "PK" and "Vilka" routes along a system of cracks. Insurance is predominantly natural, with one bolt hammered at each station. There are also a few intermediate bolts. You need to approach the route along a clearly visible path leading to "PK". 20 meters before the base of the PK route, you need to traverse to the right with a height gain and climb onto a ledge under the base of the wall - there is a bolt hammered there, this is the start of the route. Mshatka Kaya mountain. Route lines. High-resolution photo: "Victoria" route (2B), general scheme. High-resolution photo: alpinist.biz "Victoria" route (2B). Detailed scheme. High-resolution photo. R4 station - our version of the passage, R4* - the first ascenders' version.

Mshatka-Kaya — 6. "Pacific"

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: 3A Authors: Kirill Gostev, Vladimir Odoyev The first two ropes of the route coincide with the "Boomerang" route 4A. The route itself is a combination of variations between "Filatovka" and "Boomerang", but is quite interesting and independent. R0–R1 (45 m, IV)

• The start of the first rope, slightly to the left of "Filatovka" — an inner corner that leads to a ledge
• There will be a tree on the left, then move up the slabs to the base of a mulda
• Then move right up a thin crack to a large tree, with the tree on the exit on the left
• Protection: nuts, cams, anchors R1–R2 (40 m, III)

Mshatka-Kaya — 2. "Halloween"

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Category: 3B Author: Kirill Gostev, Vladimir Odoyev A warm autumn day and a good mood, what else is needed for a pleasant climb. Of course, a location, a summit, where you can create a new route. Many will say - they say, in Foros there's no room left for pioneers, but if you think and take a closer look, you can find new lines. The route passes between the routes "Vilka levaya" (Left Fork) 2B and "Victoria" 2B. Despite the fact that the line is quite broken due to a long traverse, the route itself is interesting and logical, entirely tied to the relief, all stations are on their own gear and trees. Many sections of pleasant climbing.

Crimea. Mshatka-Kaya "Boomerang" Route, 4A

On June 17, 2012, a group of three people - Gostev Kirill (Yalta), Odoyev Vladimir, and Leontyeva Ekaterina (Sevastopol) - made an ascent to the summit of Mshatka-Kaya via a new route. The route was named "Boomerang" and was estimated to be approximately 3B/4A (classified as 4A). It was done almost a year and a half ago, but it was only recently that the necessary paperwork was completed and the information was shared online. We are sharing the information with you:

• from the ascent passport
• UIAA scheme
• description.

Mshatka-Kaya Peak (650 m), "Boomerang" Route.

Difficulty category: presumably 3B/4A (classified as 4A)

Route Characteristics:

length — 300 m (7 ropes); length of sections:

Mshatka-Kaya — 11

Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" — blue line on the photograph

Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" (5A)

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko («Odes­sit»), Odes­sa A well-known route, climbed in the ancient times. Currently, many bolt hanger hooks are in disrepair, but the route is fully passable. You can approach the route from the Filatova contrefort or directly from the road via simple rocks. The route starts from an inner corner leading to the base of the "strelka" (IV+). Then:

• up the crack,
• to the top of the "strelka" (V),

Mshatka-Kaya — 12. «Kaskad»

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: V, A2 Authors: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of creation: 2006 Number of pitches: 9 Length: 370 m The route goes through the center of the wall, crossing a series of ledges, with a logical transition to the left in the upper part. Further, the route coincides with the «Strelka» route. The approach to the route is from the old Yalta road, 200 m to the right of the fork to Baydarskie Vorota; a trail leads to the wall. Follow the trail, then the scree, generally left and up, to approach the lower belt of rocks. Through the rocks of the lower belt, left and up, choosing the optimal path, reach a ledge. Then traverse along the ledges to the left with a slight gain in height.

Miatka-Kaya (618 m) — 24. "Diktat dozhdya" (Rain Dictate), 5B

The route was climbed on March 13-14, 2017, by the team:

• Zagirnyak Mikhail
• Pugachëv Sergey, in 12 hours The approach starts from the observation deck below Foros, going up the trail, and then along simple rocks and trails, traversing to the right in the direction of the "Triangulyatsiya" route. Passing the beginning of the ascent to the "Uho" route, move up to the right, towards a large group of trees under the main wall. The start of the route is on the left side of the wall, on implicit ledges. R0–R1: 40 m, I–II, 50°; When processing or carrying heavy backpacks, the first rope can be hung and a piton station organized 10 m below the large group of pine trees under the wall. Standing by the pine tree under the wall is extremely uncomfortable. Railing Station at R0–R1

Mshatka-Kaya — 17. “Iron Path”

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: VI A3 Length: 215 m Route description The route goes through the right part of the wall, crossing the right edge of the triangle. Climbed in winter, on snowy rocks. At a temperature below −5 °C. Not repeated. The approach to the route coincides with the approach to the “Triangle on the right”. From the old Yalta road, 200 m to the right of the fork to Baydarskie Vorota, a path leads to the wall. On the path, then on the talus, general direction left — up, approach the lower

Paraguelmen — 2

List of routes to the summit Paraguelmen:

1. Paraguelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and counterfort 1B, II
2. Paraguelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraguelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraguelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraguelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraguelmen via SE edge and center of the wall 3B, V

Route 2