Report

on the ascent to the summit 3423 m (peak NPI) via the western ridge from Otryog pass, presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Aксаут region, Bolshaya Marka valley, section 2.2 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 3423 m (peak NPI), via the western ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 150 m (total – 650 m) Route length (technical part): 250 m. Length of sections with category III difficulty: 100 m.

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then:

115. Map for the Eastern Ridge Route (Combined Climb, Category 2A Difficulty, Figures 5, 13)

From the "Bashil" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), approach the confluence of the Bashil and Jailyak rivers. From here, ascend via a steep trail on the left bank of Jailyak, leading into the valley of this river. Continue along the valley, cross the river via a bridge near a shepherd's hut to the right bank of Jailyak, and follow the trail along steep "sheep's foreheads" to the point where the Kenchat River joins Jailyak from the right. Bypass the "sheep's foreheads" from the right, ascending to a grassy shoulder, and from there, traverse across scree slopes, partially overgrown with grass, to reach the moraines of the Kenchat gorge. Ascend via the moraines and then a simple, long glacier of Kenchat to its upper cirque. From the "Bashil" tourist base, the journey takes 7-9 hours. From the glacier, ascend via a wide, scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the right onto the Eastern Ridge of the Kayarta peak. Here, turn left and follow the heavily degraded Eastern Ridge, featuring several straightforward, not very tall gendarmes that can be overcome directly (with protection), to reach the summit ridge. From here, ascend along the gentle, simple, degraded rocky ridge or a snowy slope on the right side of the lengthy Eastern Ridge to the summit of Kayarta. Route Components:

• Ascend via a scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the Eastern Ridge
• Traverse left onto the Eastern Ridge
• Overcome gendarmes along the Eastern Ridge using protection
• Reach the summit ridge

117. Kayarta —

(combined route, category II, fig. 5, 13). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) to the Western Kayarta stream is described in route 106. Having crossed the stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream to its upper cirque above two waterfalls. Then:

• ascend along the right bank,
• then cross to the left bank,
• move along the left bank to the Western Kayarta glacier. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), bypass the icefall. Above it, cross the glacier to the right and approach the left slope of the Western ridge of Kayarta peak. From the glacier, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to the Western ridge of Kayarta. From here, along a gently sloping wide snow-ice slope on the left side of the 450–500-meter Western ridge with a 20-meter ascent in the upper part, reach the summit of Kayarta. From the Tyutyusu gorge — 4–5 hours.

64. Kichkidar via the West Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 5, 7). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with a starting bivouac at "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki" is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses), approach the right side of the steep West Ridge of Kichkidar peak. From the glacier, turn right and ascend the ice-snow slope, bypassing the rock walls at the base of the West Ridge and its I gendarme on the right. After passing the gendarme, turn left and ascend a 120-160-meter ice-snow couloir to the col of the West Ridge above the I gendarme. On the col, turn right, then across snowy expanses, destroyed and sometimes steep rocks alternating with snowy sections of the West Ridge, bypassing low gendarmes and walls on the left (with protection), ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki" 3-3.5 hours.

168. Lekzyr Yuzhnaya via South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, E, Beletsky, 3B cat. diff., fig. 24, 26).

From Tot Pass (route 160) descend a snow slope with a bergschrund in its lower part to Tot Glacier and along its right side (closed crevasses) approach the right side of the south-eastern ridge of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya peak. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend 100–120 m up a snowy-ice slope of the "tie" to a col (cornice) of the South-Eastern ridge above the 1st pillar. Here, turn right, approach the 2nd pillar, bypass it with a descent along a ledge on the left (belay) and get behind it onto the South-Eastern ridge. Then:

• 15–20 m along a snowy slope,
• 80–90 m along rocky South-Eastern ridge to below a wall. Bypass the wall on the right along a ledge. Then, traverse 50–60 m along medium-difficulty rocks on the right side of the South-Eastern ridge (gully) and via an ice-snow couloir ascend to the South-Eastern ridge. Then:
• along medium-difficulty rocks,
• along a snowy col (cornice),
• along simple, easy rocks of the South-Eastern ridge — ascend to the summit of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya.

203. Orely via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp through the Tyutyusu gorge to the Killar Pass is described in routes 184 and 201. From the Killar Pass, turn left (north) and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Orely. From here, ascend along the wide, heavily eroded, straightforward rocky ridge to the summit of Orely. From the Killar Pass, it takes 30-40 minutes. Descend via the same route. The duration of the route is 2 days. Additionally, bring an ice axe.

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,

Tyutyu 2nd Western (4420 m). Route via the Southern ridge (“through the lens”), category 3B. The Tyutyu peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Adyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Jailyk and Sullukol peaks. The first ascent was made by S. Goluvev via the Western ridge in 1914. Tyutyu is a mountain massif consisting of:

• Eastern (4400 m),
• Main (4460 m),
• Central (4430 m),
• 2nd Western (4420 m),
• Western (4350 m) peaks, located in the northwestern spur (Adyr ridge) of the Main Caucasian Range (Kabardino-Balkaria Republic), between the Adyr-Su and Tyutyu-Su rivers. The name translates from Balkarian as “barberry peak”.