Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kok-Su valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Ossonaly (M) peak, 4300 m, via the north-eastern wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 770 m, length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 400 m, 6th diff. cat. — 40 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying — 76 for ITO — 5
7. Number of travel hours — 15.
8. Team composition:

REPORT

Salt Route

On the ascent of Peak 4770 m via the East Ridge, category 3A complexity (ориентировочно). First ascent. Leader: Simakov N.V.

Brief description of the approach to the route

The base camp is located in the Koksu gorge, at the confluence of the Koksu and Koshkasu rivers, on the Koshdeba clearing. From the base camp:

• go up the Koshkasu river along the left bank (1 hour);
• then go along the dry stream bed (the western ridge of Peak 4770 m remains on the left side), which continues along the moraine (1.5 hours). The route begins at the base of the scree couloir descending from the East Ridge of Peak 4770 m.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION CLIMBING ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Alai Ridge.
3. Peak "Sыnovey", 5100 m, via the southwest buttress and south ridge.
4. Category 5A difficulty.
5. Elevation gain of the route 800 m, length of 5th category

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kок-Su gorge, Begichi river valley
3. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
4. Peak — v. 4080 m via N-3 ridge
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 300 m, total length — 640 m, length of sections with 2nd cat. diff. — 300 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 100 m, 5th cat. diff. — none, average steepness — 36°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 10, wooden — none, bolt — none

15

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Region of ascent, mountain range — Pamiro-Alay, Kichik-Aks ridge
3. Peak — Repin­tash Height — 3900 m. Ascent route — via the northern slope
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3–5
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 900 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 55°
   • Average steepness — 55°

I.— Rock Climbing Category

I.— Rock Climbing Category 2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAI RIDGE 3. PEAK — KIZKochKAN (4100 m) First ascent via the Northeast face, Central combined route 4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 4A 5. Elevation gain — 560 m Route length 235 m. Sections of IV-V difficulty category — 590, average steepness — 6. PITON USAGE:

• Rock pitons — 36

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing class — technical 2. Climbing area — Kiçik-Alay ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Legendarnaya Magnitka — 4550 m via the Western ridge spur 4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m, length of difficult section — 210 m, average steepness of difficult section — 60° 6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 23, ice — none, bolted — none 7. Number of climbing hours — 10 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — none 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification:

I. Climbing category: ROCK. 2. Climbing region: Ki­chik-A­lay ridge (Pa­mi­ro-A­lay). 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 60 years of UAS­SR; 4150 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Expected cat. difficulty: 3B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m; length of sections with 3–5 cat. difficulty — 140 m; average steepness — 45–50°. 6. Number of pitons: rock pitons for belay — 21 pcs. 7. Number of walking hours: 12 h.

Ascent to the summit of BIVACHNAYA via S.–E. ridge, cat. 1B The ascent to the summit starts from the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac located below the summit of Bivachnaya. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Khyrsa, and Kulay Djovanon up to the old moraine of the glacier, bypassing the north-eastern and eastern slopes of Bivachnaya. Then, start ascending to the right up the grassy and talus slopes towards the S.–E. ridge of the summit. To the left of the summit remains a saddle on the southern ridge leading to Kulay Djovanon. When ascending the lower and middle parts of the ridge, move to the left of the ridge, leaving rocks to the right. Small rocky ridges also protrude to the left. Continuing the ascent to the left of the ridge, approach the walls descending from the ridge. To the right of the walls, there is a shoulder on the ridge that you should aim for. From here, further movement is along the ridge rocks. The rocks are of moderate difficulty with diverse relief forms. Protection is alternating through rock projections. The final ascent to the summit is via easy rocks. Early in the season, there may be snow and cornices to the right, towards the north-east. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route back to the "Zelyonaya polyana" valley.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people

Description of the Ascent to Peak "Mayakovsky" via the Northwest Wall (Upper Section)

A group from the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists consisting of:

• REZNIK V. P.
• SHKLYAR G. Z.
• SAVIN V. I.
• PETRASHKO G. A. Led by (signature) Alma-Ata 1962 Peak "Mayakovsky" is located in one of the ridges of the Trans-Ili Alatau range. It is situated in the cirque of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, from which the Malaya Almaatinka river originates.