Fig. 28 121. Dubl' pik Severny (4516 m) via Western slope (combined route, P. Glebova, category 3A, Fig. 28). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzhinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the platforms (closed crevasses), go along the snowy plateau of the Central branch to the left side of the wide snowy slope descending from the saddle between the peaks of Dubl' pik. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope to the right side of the Western ridge of Severny Dubl' pik. From Tsey-Karaugom pass, it is better to approach here by traversing a steep snowy slope, bypassing the western slopes of the Western ridge of Yuzhny Dubl' pik above the bergschrund (avalanches - insurance). Further, along a steep icy-snowy slope, sometimes along simple rocks on the right side of the Western edge of Severny Dubl' pik (rope insurance), there is an ascent of 500-600 m to the saddle between the peaks. There is a large cornice on the east side of the saddle. The path from the saddle to Severny Dubl' pik is described in route 122. From the initial bivouac - 5-8 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route or through the Southern peak (see routes 122, 117). The duration of the route is 2-3 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

From the overnight stay on the Tsейский glacier plateau below Mazа Dublyor peak, the route goes in the direction of the Northeast Ridge. Approach the ridge from its left side, through the bergschrund in the area of the avalanche gully, onto the snowy slope. Up the slope (40 m) to a rocky outcrop. Along the rocky outcrop on snow (120 m) to the right into the first couloir. Cross the second avalanche gully and on snow (60 m) to the rocks. On rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge beyond the first "gendarme". Traverse over the ridge to the shoulder — the first control cairn. From the cairn along the ridge, bypass a small "gendarme" on the left (possible to bypass on the right — 1 piton) to the wall. Up the wall (40 m, 80°). The wall rocks are heavily destroyed (rockfall hazard — piton belay). The wall initially traverses right and up (30 m), then straight up to the second large "gendarme". Further on the steep, crumbly ridge (120 m) to the wall. Up the wall (45–50 m) to the third "gendarme" (the wall of the "gendarme" has a large number of holds and "live" rocks, piton belay). From the "gendarme", descend along the snowy ridge, abutting the pre-summit wall. The steepness of the ridge is initially 25–30°, at the top up to 70° (belay via ice axe and ice screws). Along the ridge, initially keeping away from the cornice, then to the right (90 m), and then straight up under the rocks. The entire ridge is 250–300 m. Up the roc- (over 80 m) / to the pre-summit wall. Wall-

NORTH PEAK DOUBLE 5A

VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE SOUTH NORTH R15 R14 R13 R12

DUPLICATE NORTH PEAK B

VIA EAST RIDGE R15: 20 m 40° 3 RIDGE R14–R15: 80 m 80° 5 WALL R13–R14: 80 m 60° 4 RIDGE R12–R13: 150 m 70° 1 RIDGE, ICE R11–R12: 100 m 70° 4 RIDGE R10–R11: 60 m 30° 3 RIDGE R9–R10: 50 m 80° 5 WALL

122. South Dubl' Peak — North Peak (combined route by I. Antonovich, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the Tsey region's KSP (group of 4–8 people) to South Dubl' Peak is described in route 117. From South Dubl' Peak, descend along the ice-and-snow ridge, then down the slope to a wide saddle (with a corniche on the right). From the saddle, approach the base of North Peak's ascent. From the saddle, ascend a steep 70–80 m ice-and-snow slope in a couloir, then climb 25–30 m of moderately difficult rock (using piton insurance) to reach the Western ridge of North Peak. Here, turn right and follow the snow-covered, simple to moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to reach North Dubl' Peak. The journey from South Dubl' Peak takes about 1 hour. Descend via the ascent route or through the Karaugom Plateau (see routes 121, 63). The route duration is 3 days.
123. North Dubl' Peak — South Peak (combined route by M. Zvezdkin, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the Tsey region's KSP or the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Western ridge's platforms of Bivouachnaya Peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, traverse the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom Plateau to approach (watch for hidden crevices) the steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the Tsey ridge's saddle (between North Dubl' Peak on the right and Krasnoflotets Peak on the left). From the plateau, to the left of North Dubl' Peak's western walls and ice fall:

• cross the snow bridge over the bergschrund;
• ascend the steep 400–500 m ice-and-snow slope (beware of avalanches; use piton insurance);
• reach the wide saddle of the ridge. On the saddle (with a corniche to the north), turn right. After crossing the bergschrund on a snow bridge, continue:

Description of the ascent route to the summit Zaramag, 4221 m, from the south, via the left couloir. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

From the lower Zaramag camps in the Zaramag gorge, head towards the glacier descending from Mt. Zaramag. Cross the stream and river via a small bridge and ascend right-upwards along the trail in the direction of the ridge moraines. Approach the left moraine and ascend it. Traverse across the scree to the right (in the direction of travel) moraine. Follow it until the reddish rocks and, bypassing them on the right, continue upwards to the upper camps. The journey from the lower camps to the upper ones takes around 2 hours. From the upper camps, head left upwards, traversing under the slopes of the Adai-Khokh massif to avoid the conical moraine. Reach the Zaramag glacier. The journey from the upper camps takes 30–40 minutes. While crossing the glacier, move left towards the ridge with Mt. Zaramag, visible against the skyline (1.5–2 hours). Bypass the ridge on the left and head towards the rocky white-yellow "island", leaving the entire Mt. Zaramag massif on the right (in the direction of travel). (Fig. 1) Ascend the snowy-icy slope (about 45°) to the right-upwards, 4–5 ropes. CAUTION! Crevasses possible! Continue in the direction of the steep, snowy-icy, even couloir between the gendarme on the ridge leading to Mt. VTsSPS and Mt. Zaramag. The couloir's steepness is 30–35°, and in its upper part, 40–45°. The extent is 8–10 ropes. The couloir is visible from bottom to top. In the middle of its upper part, a rocky "island" is visible. There may be ice in the upper part of the couloir. Travel in crampons or with piton protection. (Fig. 2)

Combined route, category 4B

Path from the CSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier.

From the hut (departure at 3–4 am):

• Cross the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the Tyrolean ice-snow right (first) ridge of the Northern wall of Zaromag peak, north of the Northern ridge and behind it, the waterfall of the glacier descending along the Northern slope of the Western ridge of Zaromag. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend 200–250 m along the right side of a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche rockfall). Then turn right and reach the rocks on the left side of the Northern ridge of Zaromag peak. From here:
• ascend simple rocks
• ascend scree
• reach the saddle of the Northern ridge. On the saddle, turn left, along the steep, sharp, heavily broken, and snow-covered rocky Northern ridge, approach the First wall. Bypass the wall on the right with a 90–100 m traverse along steep, above average difficulty, broken rocks (“live” stones — piton protection) to reach the buttress on the right side of the Northern ridge. Further along steep, average difficulty, broken, and in places sharp rocks of the 150–170-meter buttress, with several 3–5-meter walls above average difficulty, then ascend the walls leading to the Northern ridge (piton protection).

1

Descend to the hanging glacier and approach it. Bypass the ascent on the right along the steep icy slope and on the right, and the ascent's rocks on the left. Above the drop-offs reach the hanging glacier. along the steep snow-firn slope of the glacier with crevasses ascent to the upper plateau. Along it, approach to the right tower. Bypass the tower on the right and ascend 3B turn left and along simple snow-covered rocks

V. Zaromag via the left buttress of the northern edge, cat. 4B

BOL. SH. I ZH. IV ZH. Eastern ridge ZH. «ZIL» Saddle Western ridge VCSPS shoulder

1st day. From the "Phelda" camp, the path goes along the right orographic slope of Adyl-su to the "Jan-tugan" camp along the road and further along the trail to the old camp approximately a kilometer from the Jan-tugan tourist center. Then the trail turns left and goes along a steep grassy slope between two forest masses. After ascending the grassy slope between the two forest masses, we come out onto the scree and then along a faintly expressed ridge, we ascend to the bivouac site below the VCSPC pass. The journey to the overnight stay takes 4–5 hours. 2nd day. From the bivouac, we reach the VCSPC pass. We descend along the steep scree onto the Kurmы glacier. Along the glacier, we approach a wide couloir coming from the saw-toothed ridge between the peaks Andyrchi Main and M.N.R. South. Along the wide couloir,