— 1970 — Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.

Ascent to Peak Shipka (6247 m) via the Southwest Ridge Central Council of DSO "Zenit" 1970 Brief Geographical and Geological Characteristics of the Peak Shipka Area Peak Shipka (6247 m) is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR. Along with the peaks:

• Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m),
• Peak October Revolution (6974 m),
• Peak Paris Commune (6002 m), Peak Shipka encloses the Yazgulem-Dara valley, at the head of which lies the eponymous glacier, stretching over 15 km. On geographical maps, the name of the glacier and valley is incorrectly printed with "E" instead of "Ё", though this is a local name and is pronounced as YAZGULЁM-DARA.

1. Climbing category — altitude-technical
2. Climbing region — Yazgulemsky ridge
3. Peak Shipka, 6254 m, central buttress of NW wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route description Height difference — 2154 m, average steepness — 45°, average steepness of wall section — 60°, length of sections: R0 — 0; R1 — 500 m; R2 — 1550 m; R3 — 710 m; R4 — 305 m; R5 — 150 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, rock — 96, ice — 0, bolt — 0 for creating belay anchors — 8
7. Total hours of climbing — 42

10. TEAM COACH – HONORED COACH OF THE USSR, MASTER OF SPORTS SIVTSOV Boris Grigorievich 11. DATE OF DEPARTURE ON THE ROUTE AND RETURN TO THE CAMP: 16.08.1973 – 23.08.1973.

Map-Scheme of the Ascent Area

§1. Brief Geographical Description

Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) is located in the Central Pamir in the eastern end of the Yazgulemsky ridge. Together with its neighbors along the ridge:

4.12.75

ON ASCENT TO PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII VIA SOUTH RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA GLACIER THROUGH PIK 6254 m. A COLLECTIVE OF ALPINISM INSTRUCTORS FROM THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. THE ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. 1968 Photo 2. Pioneering ridge of Pik Revolyutsii. (Taken from the overnight stop on descent from Pik 6254 m.) The objectives of our team's ascents in the 1968 season were Pik 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) and Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m). These peaks had been visited by Soviet climbers several times before, but all ascents were made either from the Fedchenko Glacier or the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier. Our team's task was complicated by the fact that the chosen routes to these peaks started from the south, a region that Soviet climbers rarely explored. Participants of the Armed Forces (AF) gathering began preparing for the expedition in the autumn of 1967.

PAMIR. Upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier. Peak: Korolyov S.P. 6236 m, from the Sredniy Glacier along the Western ridge, combined. Description of the first ascent made on August 14, 1968 by a group of climbers from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the ZENIT Voluntary Sports Society (DSS). Leader: A. Vakhmenin. The description was compiled by A. Vakhmenin Chelyabinsk Regional Federation of Alpinism. — 1968. CENTRAL PAMIR. Scheme of the ridges of the upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier.

I. Introduction

Peak 6236 m is located in the northern part of the ridge of the South Group of the Fedchenko Glacier (see map-diagram). The ridge of the South Group of the Fedchenko Glacier separates the Fedchenko Glacier and the Vitkovsky Glacier, starts approximately opposite the Abdukagor-1 pass, and initially stretches east, and after the peak 6236 m — south. The ridge contains, starting from the northern part:

• peak 5360 m,

The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of:

1. A. V. Abramov
2. G. P. Derovoy
3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasiliev via route 4A cat. diff. in 1967) Release officer — V. G. Tarkhanov — Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor

Central Pamir

Ranges of the Fedchenko Glacier headwaters.

Appendix №3 Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Vas'kova D (A. Abramov, 1976) in the Database of Climbing Route Descriptions FAR №2840.pdf

PAMIR

BERUOVIE

LETNIK

FERMENO

Description of the first ascent to Peak T.E. Vas'kova (6100 m) via a combined route of 5A category difficulty along the southern ridge. The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" sports society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of: Leader I. A. Ya. Abramov, 2. G. P. Lernovoi, 3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasilyeva via a 4A category route in 1967). Launching officer - B.G. Tarkhanov - Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

Contents

• Title Page

VT8

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION (врedo тр9) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1973

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Lyap-Nazar (5984 m) via the northeast wall Alpclub "Donbass" Captain and coachM.S.SIVTSOV B.G. DONETSK–1973

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LYAP-NAZAR SUMMIT (5984 m)

The Lyap-Nazar summit (5984 m) translates from the Rushani dialect as "Visible Tooth" (Lyap-tooth, Nazar-view). It is located at the eastern end of one of the Yazgulem Ridge spurs and stands out among neighboring peaks with its impressive "height". The southern walls of Lyap-Nazar drop steeply towards the Bartang River above the Roshorv village. An 8-hour ascent from the village up the Yazgulem-dara River leads to the confluence of the Lyap-Nazar Glacier stream and Yazgulem-dara. The Northeast wall of Lyap-Nazar rises 2400 m above the glacier. For the past 4 years, the wall has attracted climbers with its inaccessibility and beauty, but expeditions focused on higher mountains in the area, such as Peak Revolyutsii and the 26 Baku Commissars, left this wall untouched, and until 1973, there were no attempts to ascend it.