58. Triangle — Khimik

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category 3B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the old right-bank moraine of the Azot glacier is described in route 52. From the moraine, turn right and ascend via scree and easy, broken rocks of the couloir to the saddle of the Western ridge of Triangle peak. From the alpine camp, 2.5-3 hours. On the saddle, turn left and ascend 80-100 m via easy rocks of the Western ridge to below a rock wall. From under the wall, traverse several gendarmes via easy, straightforward rocks and scree on the right side of the Western ridge, and then traverse (with belay) across the ice-snow slope to below a rock tower. Traverse the tower along the boundary between the ice-snow slope and rocks, and then ascend to a col below the summit spire. From the col, ascend via steep, straightforward monolithic rocks of the Western ridge's spire to the summit of Triangle.

• From the right-bank moraine: 3-4 hours
• From Ullutau alpine camp: 6-7 hours From Triangle summit, descend via easy rocks of the Eastern ridge to a saddle. Then, traverse along the ice-snow slope on the left side of the wide, gendarme-studded ridge of the long saddle to below a large gendarme, Rock. Traverse the gendarme to the right (with belay), ascending behind it to the ridge, and then follow the straightforward ridge, passing low gendarmes head-on, to below the Trapezium gendarme. Ascend the Trapezium via steep, moderately difficult rocks (with piton belay) of the ridge. From Trapezium, descend via moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to a saddle, and then traverse along the saddle, passing the Small gendarme head-on (with belay), to below the summit tower of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From here, ascend via steep slabs and moderately difficult rocks of the Western ridge (with piton belay) to the summit of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From Triangle, 4-5 hours.

96. Tyutyu Eastern peak via the North-Eastern wall (combined route by Ya. Paramuda, category 5A, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyu glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and approach the lowest rocks of the North-Eastern wall of Tyutyu Eastern peak. Traverse a steep snowy slope to the right to bypass the base of the counterfort, and without entering a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche and rockfall hazard), ascend to the rocks of the North-Eastern wall. Ascend via severely damaged, easy to moderately difficult rocks of the North-Eastern wall with three 35-40-meter steep sections up to a platform below a gendarme. Traverse the gendarme for 40 meters along steep, smooth slabs on the left side. Continue 80 meters up via damaged, moderately difficult, and occasionally challenging rocks, followed by a 40-meter ice-snow slope to reach a horizontal snowy ridge. Set up a bivouac on the ridge. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Ascend 70-80 meters up a sharp ice-snow ridge (cornice) to below the rocky ascent of the North-Eastern wall. Initially, climb difficult, smooth, steep rocks of a 35-40-meter wall (the key section of the route), then ascend 40 meters up-left towards the Peri gendarmes. From the Peri gendarmes, climb 300-350 meters straight up via icy, steep rocks of above-average and average difficulty to a platform at the base of the North-Eastern ridge. From the platform, ascend via easy to moderately difficult, snowy (cornices) 400-450-meter rocky ridge to the summit of Tyutyu Eastern peak. The journey from the bivouac on the snowy ridge takes 8-10 hours.

DESCRIPTION Category III, 56. FIRST ASCENTS OF TYUTYU-VASHI VIA THE NORTH FACE On August 8, 1949, the Lokomotiv team consisting of B. Garf (team leader), G. Vedenikov, V. Sher, A. Starostin, and A. Deikin (reserve) set off by car from the Lokomotiv camp to Adyl-Su for an alpine survey of the Tyutyu-Su gorge. The route commission had approved routes on any of the north faces in this gorge: Jailyk, Tyutyu-Bashi, or Sulukol. The choice was to be made on site after preliminary reconnaissance. The Tyutyu-Su River, which flows into the Baksan from the right, 3 km above the Tyrny-Auz settlement, runs through a picturesque and little-explored gorge. Paradoxically, despite the proximity to the road (a 4-hour walk along a good trail from the Tyrny-Auz settlement), the most interesting and difficult ascents in this area have not been made yet. Twice, Honored Master of Sports A.S. Zuzin visited this gorge, but at that time, he was mainly pursuing tourist-research goals and made only a few ascents via easy routes. Thus, the Lokomotiv team had a wide field of activity. The car took us to the last bridge over the Baksan before Tyrny-Auz. Here, we loaded all the expedition gear onto donkeys and set off first upstream along the Baksan (on the right bank) along a dirt road and then, crossing the Tyutyu-Su via a bridge, turned upstream along the deep canyon, following a trail laid along the left bank of the river. After 3 km, we were disappointed:

95. Tytu East via the North Face

(combined route by L. Popov, category 5B, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tютюsu gorge to the initial bivouac and at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tютю glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine, cross the Tютю glacier and approach the rocky base of the North Face of Tютю East peak. From the glacier, begin the ascent up the wall along difficult and moderately difficult rocks using an upward-sloping internal corner to the left until reaching scree. From the corner, traverse right along a wide scree shelf through a snow patch along a belt of moderately difficult destroyed rocks to a steep icy rocky couloir (avalanche, rockfall hazard). Along difficult rocks of the vertical wall, 40 m straight up to the left of the icy couloir,

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope:

Fig. 22

1. Ascent to the summit of Zub Sofruju — category 2B (Fig. 22)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, cross the bridge over the Alibek River and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakaysky couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300 m up. Then, move left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (prone to rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya Polyana (Bear Glade). From Medvezhya Polyana, initially follow alpine meadows (trail), then snow, and after 300–350 m, move left of the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to reach the Sofrujinsky bivouac. The journey from Dombayskaya Polyana takes 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!), descend to the Sofrujinsky Glacier, traverse between the upper and lower icefalls, and reach the base of the summit massif. Ascend the steep (50–55°) snow slope (partially rocky), reach the ridge, and follow it to a snow saddle. Continue along the snowy ridge to a wall. In the second half of summer, ice is present on this section — crampons and ice axes are required. The ridge is sharp (belay required!).

• Ascend the 18–20-meter wall (2 pitons!)
• Continue along the broken ridge to a steep ascent

Gvandra Tsentralnaya from the saddle from Glavnaya, combined, 1B

Route Description

The ascent to the upper plateau of Gvandra is described in the route "Gvandra Vostochnaya from the saddle from Gvandra Tsentralnaya peak". On the plateau, go left - to the saddle between Glavnaya (left) and Tsentralnaya (right) peaks of Gvandra. Ascend to the saddle via a snowy slope closer to Glavnaya peak. In the lower part, the slope is cut by a bergschrund - pass via a bridge or a gap with ice blocks (belay!). The ascent from the saddle to Glavnaya peak coincides with the description of the route "Gvandra Tsentralnaya - Glavnaya" for this section of the path. From the point of reaching the plateau to the summit - 3 hours. Descent from the summit to the bivouac takes at least 3.5 hours. If you go along the ridge to the right from the saddle, it will be the beginning of the route to Tsentralnaya peak. Behind the snowy saddle, a rocky ridge begins. Bypass its ruined rocks on the right. Behind the rocks, traverse the snowy slope and, to the right of the main ridge, via a couloir, reach below a 10-meter wall. If there are no cornices on the left on this section of the ridge, move along the ridge without entering the couloir. Having overcome the 10-meter wall (50°), reach Tsentralnaya peak via simple ruined rocks.

M22. Gvandra Main — East

(combined route, cat. difficulty) See routes M14, M16, M18 — M20.

• when moving from the Central summit, pass the gap in the upper part of the ice couloir descending into it;
• when descending from the East summit, be careful, especially in bad weather, — one can end up on a slope that descends from the pre-summit to the right, which is very similar in its character to the correct slope leading towards Ak-Tyube pass. The false slope ends in ice-serac falls!
• departure time from Myrdy bivouac — at 2–3 a.m.;
• it takes 12–14 hours to complete the route;
• the traverse can be planned with an intermediate bivouac on the Gvandra ridge.

Gvandra Centralnaya - Glavnaya, 2A

Route description:

The path to the saddle between the Eastern and Central peaks is described in route M1 6. From the saddle, turn left and, having overcome a small gendarme "head-on", reach the "saw" - a heavily jagged rock ridge. Bypass the "saw" on the left along shelves and small walls. Then, along a 200-meter snowy ridge, reach the "dome". From the "dome", descend to the left to a steep snow-ice couloir. Cross it below the ridge line (belay!). In low-snow conditions, a wide crevasse appears in the upper part of the couloir, extending to the top of the ridge. To cross the couloir, it is necessary to descend to the bottom of the crevasse and ascend the ice wall on its opposite side. Beyond the couloir, ascend a simple scree ridge to the Central peak. From the saddle - 4 hours. From the Central peak, descend a 10-meter wall to a saddle leading to Gvandra Glavnaya. Then, bypass the ridge cornices via couloir R4. If there are no cornices, do not enter the couloir, but move along the ridge up to R6. From here, along a 150-meter section of simple rocks to the left of the ridge, reach a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend to the Main peak along a narrow, turning into a sharp, snowy ridge with a steep rise (belay!). To the right are huge cornices, to the left are steeply falling snowy slopes. From the Central peak - 2 hours. The descent from the peak to the saddle is via the ascent route. Then, down to the right along a steep snowy slope with a bergschrund at the bottom to the snowy fields of the upper Gvandra plateau. Walk across the plateau under the slopes of the Central peak in the direction of the saddle and then descend along the ascent route towards the Lozhny Myrd y pass. From the Main peak to the bivouac - 3 hours.

• departure time from the Myrd y bivouac should be no later than 4 am.

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.