Mshatka-Kaya — 9

Along the left edge of the Central Bastion (“Triangulyatsiya”), 4B (35 m, V)

From the upper highway 50 m east of the alpinist camps under Forosky Kant, ascend up and to the right, first along the trail, and then across simple rocks to the left edge of the Central Bastion (R0: 350 m, 30–45, no category). The sections of the route R1–R5 pass along a wide internal corner situated between the second buttress and the Central Bastion. Initially, ascend along the right side of the internal corner, and then Across steep slabs in its middle part (R1–R3: 70 m, 70°, III+). On the R3–R4 section:

Ascent Passport

I. ASCENT CLASS: Rock Climbing 2. ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, Sofiysky Ridge, KTMGV — 2.I. 3. PEAK: "Peak 3231" (Eastern) with a height of 3231 m above sea level, ascent from the "Stolichny" pass via the southeast ridge. 4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY: Approximately 1B category of difficulty. 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference between the base camp and the peak — 1911 meters; between the "Stolichny" pass and the peak — 181 meters; total route length from the "Stolichny" pass to the peak — 700 meters; average steepness — 35°; Length of section 1 category of difficulty — 580 meters, 2 category of difficulty — 90 meters, 3 category of difficulty — 30 m. 4, 5, 6 category of difficulty — none. 5. PITS DRIVEN: For belaying — rock pits 2 pcs; For artificial support points — none. 6. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS: from the base camp to the peak — 4 h 45 min; from the "Stolichny" pass to the peak — 1 h 45 min; descent from the peak to the base camp — 3.5 h. 8. NUMBER OF NIGHTS SPENT: no nights were spent on the route, possible place for overnight stay — under the "Stolichny" pass (snow) 7. GROUP INFORMATION: Leader — Fursov Yuri Sergeevich — 1st sports category. Participants: Klochkov N.V., Kobtsev A.M., Belokurov I.L., Grishchenko O.G., Dybancova L.V. — all 2nd sports category. Team coach: Rogovsky Viktor Petrovich — 1st sports category, instructor-methodologist of II category of difficulty 2357.

Ascent Passport

Climb category — technical. Region of ascent — Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach plateau. Route of ascent — Mt. Tsyndyshko Malaya (3010 m) via the Northwest buttress, category 2A difficulty. Characteristics of ascent — route is combined.

• total elevation gain of the route — 350–400 m
• average steepness of the route — 30–35°
• number of climbing hours (from camp to camp) — 10–12 hours. Team name — group of climbers from Krasnodar city committee on physical culture and sports. Team composition —
• Ponimatko Oleg Ivanovich — team leader, 1st sports category, alpinism instructor
• Semenov Mikhail Ivanovich — 1st sports category

203. Orely via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp through the Tyutyusu gorge to the Killar Pass is described in routes 184 and 201. From the Killar Pass, turn left (north) and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Orely. From here, ascend along the wide, heavily eroded, straightforward rocky ridge to the summit of Orely. From the Killar Pass, it takes 30-40 minutes. Descend via the same route. The duration of the route is 2 days. Additionally, bring an ice axe.

Peak Aviazii via the western ridge through Kurmychi peak, category 1B difficulty

Ascend to Kurmychi peak via the SE ridge (category 1B route). From the top of Kurmychi, descend along the broad snow-covered, scree-filled eastern ridge to a small snow plateau. From the plateau, follow a broad snowy ridge, then a broad, heavily broken simple rocky ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right (belay!), to ascend to Peak Aviazii. The journey from Kurmychi peak takes 1–1.5 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route is 1 day.

336. Gvergishi­sher via North Ridge (rocky route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32). From the village of Nakra, follow the trail up the left slope of the gorge. Then turn left and ascend along the stream to the left-bank moraine of the Gvergishi­sher Glacier. From the moraine, move up the glacier to the left. From the upper left corner of the glacier, ascend easy, heavily fragmented rocks of the couloir, then 150–160 m of straightforward steep rocks (belaying required) up to the North Ridge of Gvergishi­sher. Here, turn left and follow easy, straightforward rocks of the wide North Ridge; then ascend a 20–25-meter straightforward rock pitch to the summit of Gvergishi­sher. 2.5–3 hours from the moraine.

154. Gumachi via the West Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Zelyonaya gostinitsa” meadow is described in route 146. From “Zelyonaya gostinitsa”:

• move up the gorge;
• reach the Jankuat Glacier;
• ascend the glacier, keeping to its left side, to below the Jantugan Pass, left of two rocky gendarmes on a horizontal ridge between the peaks Jantugan on the right and Gumachi on the left;
• from the glacier, ascend a gently sloping snowy slope with a slight traverse to the right to

Report on the Ascent of Maly Donguz-Orun Peak via the Eastern Ridge, Category 2A, by the MAC "Freeline" Climbing Team from 01.07.2018 to 01.07.2018

I. Ascent Passport

Unnamed peak 3593 m (p. Kaluga) via N slope and W ridge

PASSPORT

1. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge
2. Unnamed peak (p. Kaluga) 3593 m via N slope and W ridge
3. Proposed as Category 1B first ascent
4. Route is combined
5. Height difference 220 m Route length 400 m
6. Movement time 11 hours
7. Leader — Cheresku I.D. CMS

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: technical.
2. Ascent area: Greater Caucasus from Chiper-Azau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: Zadnaya Nakra (3752 m) via the northern ridge from Khevai Pass.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain 850 m; average slope 30°; complex section length: approx. 25 m.
5. Pitons driven: none.
6. Number of climbing hours: 5.
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: initial bivouacs at the confluence of Kvish and Khevai glaciers, comfortable. No bivouacs on the route.
8. Team name: group of climbers from "Baksan" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification: