— 1970 — Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.

10. TEAM COACH – HONORED COACH OF THE USSR, MASTER OF SPORTS SIVTSOV Boris Grigorievich 11. DATE OF DEPARTURE ON THE ROUTE AND RETURN TO THE CAMP: 16.08.1973 – 23.08.1973.

Map-Scheme of the Ascent Area

§1. Brief Geographical Description

Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) is located in the Central Pamir in the eastern end of the Yazgulemsky ridge. Together with its neighbors along the ridge:

4.12.75

ON ASCENT TO PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII VIA SOUTH RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA GLACIER THROUGH PIK 6254 m. A COLLECTIVE OF ALPINISM INSTRUCTORS FROM THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. THE ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. 1968 Photo 2. Pioneering ridge of Pik Revolyutsii. (Taken from the overnight stop on descent from Pik 6254 m.) The objectives of our team's ascents in the 1968 season were Pik 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) and Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m). These peaks had been visited by Soviet climbers several times before, but all ascents were made either from the Fedchenko Glacier or the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier. Our team's task was complicated by the fact that the chosen routes to these peaks started from the south, a region that Soviet climbers rarely explored. Participants of the Armed Forces (AF) gathering began preparing for the expedition in the autumn of 1967.

The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of:

1. A. V. Abramov
2. G. P. Derovoy
3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasiliev via route 4A cat. diff. in 1967) Release officer — V. G. Tarkhanov — Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor

Central Pamir

Ranges of the Fedchenko Glacier headwaters.

Appendix №3 Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Vas'kova D (A. Abramov, 1976) in the Database of Climbing Route Descriptions FAR №2840.pdf

PAMIR

BERUOVIE

LETNIK

FERMENO

Description of the first ascent to Peak T.E. Vas'kova (6100 m) via a combined route of 5A category difficulty along the southern ridge. The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" sports society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of: Leader I. A. Ya. Abramov, 2. G. P. Lernovoi, 3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasilyeva via a 4A category route in 1967). Launching officer - B.G. Tarkhanov - Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

Contents

• Title Page

VT8

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION (врedo тр9) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1973

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Lyap-Nazar (5984 m) via the northeast wall Alpclub "Donbass" Captain and coachM.S.SIVTSOV B.G. DONETSK–1973

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LYAP-NAZAR SUMMIT (5984 m)

The Lyap-Nazar summit (5984 m) translates from the Rushani dialect as "Visible Tooth" (Lyap-tooth, Nazar-view). It is located at the eastern end of one of the Yazgulem Ridge spurs and stands out among neighboring peaks with its impressive "height". The southern walls of Lyap-Nazar drop steeply towards the Bartang River above the Roshorv village. An 8-hour ascent from the village up the Yazgulem-dara River leads to the confluence of the Lyap-Nazar Glacier stream and Yazgulem-dara. The Northeast wall of Lyap-Nazar rises 2400 m above the glacier. For the past 4 years, the wall has attracted climbers with its inaccessibility and beauty, but expeditions focused on higher mountains in the area, such as Peak Revolyutsii and the 26 Baku Commissars, left this wall untouched, and until 1973, there were no attempts to ascend it.

Ascent Record. I. Technical Category. 2. Central Pamir. 3. Peak Pasor (unnamed peak, 6047 m) via the north face. 4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately). 5. Route characteristics: The face on Peak Pasor. Length — 1405 m, including sections of category 5B — 330 m, 5A — 315 m, category 4 — 475 m, category 3 — 180 m, category 2 — 100 m. Average steepness — 65°, steepness of category 5 sections — 70°. Total route length — 1760 m. Total elevation gain — 1150 m. 6. Pitons used: * for belaying: * rock: 60 * ice: 7

29

TECHNICAL CLIMBING CATEGORY

REPORT

Paustovsky's report on the ascent of Peak 6150 m / Peak S.A. Lavochkin / via the ice wall of the southwest ridge by the MOS DSO "ZENIT" mountaineering team, Pamir, August 1970 ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":613,"height":782,"format": "Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/kiiwctW7YfDTrYuGXfW6in9hITGhWxZz/img-0.jpeg","id":64770347})

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION

The gathering place for the MOS DSO "ZENIT" mountaineers in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolution on the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The goal of the ascent was Peak 6150 m in the southwest ridge of Peak "26 Baku Commissars". The dominant peaks of the area are six-thousanders located in the northern part of the valley:

• Peak Revolution,
• Peak 26 Baku Commissars,

Report

on the ascent of Pik Suloeva via the SW wall, right buttress, category 5B, second ascent, Central Pamir, Fortambek Glacier; accomplished by a group of climbers from the CS F and S expedition from August 10 to 12, 1980, consisting of:

• Petrov A.E. — leader, 1st sports category, instructor
• Maltsev I.V. — participant, 1st sports category, doctor
• Troyanov V.M. — participant, 1st sports category
• Filonov Yu.V. — participant, 1st sports category MOSCOW 1980 Since the first ascenders do not submit their route for classification, by agreement with V. M. Bozhukov, this route can be considered a first ascent. November 20, 1980 A.E. Petrov

Pik Suloeva