4310 — Gestola, NE ridge, traverse, 4A cat. Route of ascent to the top. Gestola through Mt. Lyalver.

• Red dashed line — ascent route
• 4A route is indicated by a blue dashed line
• A possible emergency descent route, unclassified route, is indicated by a black dashed line
• Green labels — overnight stays 4 — Chyornye Osypi (Black Talus) stop.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lyalver.

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge, in the Bezengi Wall. The ascent to Gestola via Lyalver is classified as 3B cat. difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezengi region, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To the peak named after Yu.S. Saratov, 3711 m high, via the N ridge 43.05.337 N 43.10.797 E.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rock.
5. Height difference is 500 m.
6. There is 1 rappel anchor on the route.
7. Climbing time — 5 hours.
8. Leader — S.A. Slotyuk, Candidate Master of Sports, in a team of two with S.V. Kotachkov, Candidate Master of Sports.
9. Coach — S.A. Slotyuk.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus; 2, 6; Sugansky ridge.
3. Peak, route: p. Botkina (3897 m) from the south via the north-west ridge.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock; p/p
5. Route characteristics: height difference – about 600 m, route length – 1200 m, length of sections:

• 2+ category of difficulty – 150 m.
• 2 category of difficulty – 550 m. average steepness of the main part of the route — 35°.

3. Maly Galdor via the Western Ridge (combined route, category II difficulty). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–12 people) to the platforms near the black rock is described in route 1. From the platforms, ascend via a potentially snow-covered scree-filled couloir towards the saddle between Sredniy and Maly Galdor. In the middle part of the couloir, exit it and proceed 200–250 m upwards along the scree shelves and rocky outcrops on its right side. Then, ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope of the couloir (risk of rockfall — use protection) to reach the right side of the ridge saddle between Maly Galdor on the right and Sredniy on the left. At the saddle, turn right and exit onto the rocks of Maly Galdor's Western Ridge. Continue along the straightforward, occasionally steep ridge rocks, overcoming small rock formations head-on (the large rock formation can be bypassed on the right with protection), to ascend Maly Galdor. The ascent from the platforms near the black rock takes 3–4 hours. The descent follows the ascent route. Source:

• Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

48. Dneprovskoy Pravdy Peak (4000 m) via the West Ridge (route is combined, category 1B difficulty). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River (group of 4–20 people) ascend to the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier and cross it to the right. From the Nakhashbita Glacier, traverse via talus, grassy slopes, and moraines, cross the Kamenistyy stream, and approach the Sugansky Glacier. Ascend onto it and move up, keeping to its right side. After passing the first icefall (belaying required), traverse the glacier leftwards and upwards towards the western slopes of Dneprovskoy Pravdy Peak, bypassing the rock walls and the steep rise at the base of the West Ridge on the right via the Eastern branch of the glacier:

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 27. Doppakh West via Northwest Ridge (I. Leonov's combined route, category 4B difficulty, Fig. 7, 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) to the lower shoulder of the Northwest ridge, the summit of Doppakh West with the initial bivouac at a small kar in the left side of Sugansky Pass under the Southeast rib of Suganbashi is described in route 26. From the shoulder (bivouac possible) approach the First rock uplift of the Northwest ridge and ascend a 15 m inclined plate, then via difficult rocks of a 12 m steep inner corner to this uplift. Along 35–40 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, approach a vertical wall of a zhendarmer. From under the zhendarmer:

• 15 m descent from the ridge to the left onto a vaguely defined shelf;
• traverse 30 m along the shelf to bypass the zhendarmer.

Fig. 6 21. Nakhashbīta Glavnaya via North-Eastern Ridge (the route is combined, by L. Khodyush, category III, Fig. 6). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbīta Glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Khazni Pass is described in route 20. At the pass, turn right and approach the rocky belt under the Nakhashbīta Pass in the Sugansky Ridge via a steep snowy slope. Climb up the rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the belt ("live" stones, piton belay). Traverse the snowy slope above the rocky belt to reach the ice-snow ridge. Follow a steep (key belay), and after a small snow depression, a wide gentle 250–300-meter ridge-slope to reach the Nakhashbīta Pass. Set up a bivouac at the pass. The path from the "Nakhashbīta" meadow to the Nakhashbīta Pass is described in route 10. A safer path to climb the North-Eastern ridge of Nakhashbīta is from the Tsukhgar­ty Glacier via a steep ice-snow slope, left of the first rocky outcrop - a rib, with an exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta above the Nakhashbīta Pass. When climbing from the Nakhashbīta Glacier:

• Turn right at the pass
• Climb up a simple, gentle, long, snow-covered, heavily destroyed rocky ridge
• Continue along the simple snowy North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta

Route 1. Nakhalibita — Mayak via Idiа along the Nakhоdibita glacier

D2H5Й, combined, 2B category of difficulty From the "Nakhalibita" ascent - north along the grassy slopes, along a small river flowing from the "Nakhalibita D2H5H" glacier, exit to the terminal moraine of the glacier (photo 32). From here, to the right with a gain in height - ascent to the upper snowfield (avalanche debris to the left, orographically from the lowering of the glacier tongue). From the "Nakhalibita" clearing, about two hours. Wearing crampons, in rope teams, exit to the glacier along a fairly steep ice slope. Crevasses are passed over snow bridges, approximately in the middle part of the glacier. Belay through ice axe and ice screws (1-2 pieces). After 30-40 minutes, having exited to the open, gentle part of the glacier, cross it to the left along the way, under the rocks, along a steep snowy ascent 200-250 m long. The bergschrund is overcome along a snow bridge. Belay through ice axe. Further ascent along the rocks, having a steep icy slope to the right along the way, broken by crevasses. Having crossed a wide transverse crevasse, visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing, ascent along the rocks of Malaya Nakhashbita along a steep snowy-icy slope, above the diagonal bergschrund, between two separate rocky outcrops to a large triangular rock, clearly visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing. Here you can make a halt. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing - 5-6 hours of walking. From the rocks, having crossed a small crevasse, traverse the snowy-icy slope to the right along two bergschrunds. Belay through ice screws (1-2 pieces). Bergschrunds are crossed in the middle part along bridges with careful belay. Further along a steep (35-40°) snowy-icy slope - exit to the saddle between Malaya Nakhashbita and Glaznaya. Belay through ice screws (2-3 pieces), movement straight on with front points. From the rest place under the triangular rock - one to two hours of walking.

False Sugan

The summit of False Sugan (3900 m) is located in the ridge-crutch connecting the Sugan ridge with the Main ridge, between the peaks of South Sugan to the south and (beyond the Gülchi pass) Sugan-Tau to the north. The summit is snow-covered, its rocky slopes and ridges are simple, heavily destroyed. The only ridge route, laid from the Gülchi pass, was climbed on August 17, 1933, by N. Moroz, A. Zhukov, A. Gerasimov, K. Rossiy.

46. False Sugan via North Ridge (combined route, III category of difficulty, fig. 2, 12).

From a large boulder in the upper left corner of the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) traverse:

• left-upwards through the grassy and talus slopes of the Nakhashbita massif,
• the middle part of the moraine deposits of the Maly Nakhashbita glacier,
• then a grassy slope under the walls of the South ridge of the South Doppakh peak. Bypassing the ridge of South Doppakh from the left, ascend a steep grassy slope 300 m to the right to the terminal moraine of the Doppakh glacier (rockfall possible from the slopes of the peaks when approaching the Doppakh glacier). The moraine of the Doppakh glacier can also be reached along the right bank of the Orsdon river. Then ascend the right-bank moraine, then exit left onto the Doppakh glacier and traverse along the moraine to its end. From here, ascend the glacier, crossing it to the left, to the rocky platforms of the Eastern counterfort descending from the South ridge of the Sugan-Tau peak, to the right of the visible Gülchi pass. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 3-4 hours. On the platforms - initial bivouac.

57. Sugan False — South (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of False Sugan is described in route 46. From the summit, descend via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the South ridge to the col. From the col, traverse via simple and moderately difficult, heavily destroyed rocks on the left side of the ridge ("live" stones — piton belay) bypass the rock "saw" consisting of several sharp gendarmes and reach the col. Then:

• overcome the I gendarme directly via moderately difficult rocks;
• descend to the col below the summit ascent of South Sugan;
• from the col, via steep, moderately difficult rocks of the North ridge (piton