Pamir

Peak named after Oktyabrskaya Revolyutsiya (6974 m) north face (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of Leningrad High-altitude category

Team composition

1. Chunovkin G.A., MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V., MS — deputy captain
3. Balyberdin V.S., CMS — participant
4. Temirov A.M., CMS — participant
5. Nosov A.P., CMS — participant

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Classification 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length, category 6B difficulty, average steepness 6. Pitons driven: rock, ice 7. Number of travel hours

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazgulemsky ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Yazgulem. Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12.
2. Summit name: Peak Rokzou. Route name: from Rokzou Glacier via the serac zone of the southwestern slope.
3. Proposed – category 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Elevation gain: 1320 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4400 m. Length of sections:

To the summit from the last overnight stay

1. Geographical Information

Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov is located in the central Pamir in the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the Peak Revolyutsii massif. The average height of the ridge in this area is around 5900 m. The height of the summit is 6420 m (barometrically). The Peak Revolyutsii massif, together with Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov and Peak Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, crowns a grandiose cirque - the 5900 m plateau, the beginning of the Grumm-Grzhimaylo Glacier. To the south of the summit lies the Khabarvid-Khaya valley, to the east is Peak Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, and to the west rises the massive Peak Revolyutsii.

2. Possible Ascent Routes

All possible routes to the summit of Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov start from the 5900 m plateau of the Grumm-Grzhimaylo Glacier. There are three such paths:

1. Ascending from the south via a snow-ice slope to the 6300 m col, from where you can reach the summit via rocks.
2. Ascending to the same col from the north via a snowy slope with bergschrunds.
3. Ascending to the summit via the north-eastern ridge. The route from the Khabarvid-Khaya glacier is the most challenging and dangerous and is hardly passable.

4.12.44.54

Description of the First Ascent of Peak 6150 m

Coleencreux Kosmonavtov.

I. Geographical Information

Peak 6150 m (photo 1 and 2) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Pik Ficker ridge, in the so-called "Southern group of Fedchenko mountains". The slopes of the peak give rise to tributaries of the glaciers:

• Vitkovsky
• Fedchenko To the east of Peak 6150 m lies one of the peaks of Pik Ficker.

4.12 44851 Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the USSR Council of Ministers

Climbing Department

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Ascent to the summit of Peak "Vspomogatelnykh" (Helpers)

Peak "Vspomogatelnykh" is located in the southwestern spur of the western ridge of Peak Ficker.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route went along the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obval glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends, and there is a fairly convenient exit onto the ice. The group crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obval glaciers and reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which turns sharply northeast at this point (1 hour). A trail along the moraine (along the stream) leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, the group descended from the moraine of the glacier and moved towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographic) branch of the Abdukagor glacier, divided by a rocky ridge into two parts (30–40 minutes). The icefall was traversed somewhat to the right in the lower part and somewhat to the left in the upper part (in the direction of travel) (1 hour). Above the icefall, three not very steep ascents were traversed, alternating with more gentle sections.

4. Brief Characteristics of the Ascent

4.1. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Vysokaya Stena ridge
3. Peak: Tartu University – 350 years height 6350 m ascent route: from Lake Tanymas II via the northwest ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 850 m

Description

First Ascent of Peak 6113.5 m

Geographical Information

Peak 6113.5 m (photo 1) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Vysokaya Stena range. Four glaciers originate from its slopes:

• The northern slopes give rise to the Tanymas 3 glacier;
• The western slopes feed the second (unnamed) glacier, which is a right tributary of the Fedchenko Glacier;
• On the southwest, a third (unnamed) glacier flows, which is the last right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier;
• To the south flows the fourth glacier, also a right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier.

Approaches

The group of first ascensionists approached Peak 6113.5 m on July 27, 1962, from the base camp (altitude 3900 m) located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier.

53a

USSR Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

Report

on the first ascent of Peak 6113 m via the right part of the north face by the Ukrainian "Burevestnik" Sports Club team Team leader: I.V. Bozhko Coach: A.M. Bychek 1985, Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Club 252000, Kiev, Vorovsky St., 30-g, tel. 26-37-16

Passport

1. High-altitude technical class 2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Tanimass-3 lake area 3. Peak "6113" via the right part of the northern wall 4. Proposed — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain — 1200 m, wall section length — 1240 m, length of sections with Category 5B difficulty — 310 m, average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 64° (5050–6050 m) 6. Pitons driven: