Photo 1. General photo of the summit July 1987 Lens IE F=52.4 mm Distance — 200 Shooting point — 1. Height of shooting point — 4500 m

• Route traversed by the group.
• Route to V. Upluauz via 3rd ridge, 4A cat. sl.
• Route to V. Upluauz (M) via S edge, 4A cat. sl.

Bartuy

The Bartuy peak (4000 m) is located in the Main ridge between the Gebe peak to the northwest and the Kain peak to the southeast, in the upper reaches of the Bartuy glacier to the north and the Kirtysh glacier to the south. The only route was climbed by N. Tizengauzen, A. Bratolyubov, and B. Shcherbakov on August 12, 1933, via the southeast ridge from the Bartuy glacier. 78. Bartuy via the Southeast ridge (combined route, category 1B) The path from the Dzanaga settlement (group of 4-20 people) to the upper firn plateau at the top of the Second step of the Bartuy glacier's icefall is described in route 80. From the plateau, go right and upwards to pass the Third step of the icefall of the Western branch, then ascend a gentle slope with a bergschrund in the lower part to reach the saddle of the Main ridge between the Bartuy peak to the right and the Kain peak to the left. On the saddle, turn right and ascend simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge to reach the summit of Bartuy. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route from the Dzanaga settlement is 3-4 days. Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

2. Maly Galdor (4080 m) via the East Ridge (rocky route, category 2A difficulty). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-12 people) to the platforms near the black rock is described in route 1. From the platforms, ascend a wide, scree-covered (possibly snow-covered) slope of the couloir to the saddle of the Sugansky Ridge between the Maly Galdor peak on the left and Botkin Peak on the right. At the saddle, turn left and reach the rocks of the East Ridge of Maly Galdor. From here, ascend simple, sometimes steep (requiring protection) rocks of the East Ridge to Maly Galdor. The time from the platforms near the black rock is 2 hours 30 minutes. The descent follows the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karau gom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Is Doppakh the main (western?) one via the north-eastern ridge?

The ridge is snowy-icy, category 4 difficulty. The route has been climbed multiple times (1937, 1939), but a detailed description is not available. From the south-western branch of the "Nakhashbita" glacier, ascend a steep (35-40°) icy slope, reaching 70° at times, to the north-eastern icy ridge and along it to the summit (photo 27). From the overnight stay on the glacier to the summit is 7-8 hours of intense work. Descend via the ascent route. For the route, 8-10 ice screws, ropes for loops, and other equipment are necessary.

The ascent to the summit begins from Pakhan Taymazin along the slope along the edge of the Tana-dan river to the entrance to Mount Kubye (2345 m) to the Tana-dere area (3-4 hours). There are parking spaces, if not blocked. From the area's edge to the yakutap's stop, the entrances are on the right along the area's path, the entrance is on the left along the edge between the Tana-dere area and the yakutap's stop and along it to the level of the hourly area. From Pokhno Taymazin 6th from the blockage on the sanad (help? and 6) 6 evenly between (equal and voemunoya Aabodol). We overcome along the even slope, the ascent is steep along the even slope to the north-eastern edge of the rebe. The descent is intentionally done with a rope and rappelling. Along the stops, the entrance to the redopind is in a state of even-redo-boro verunichnogo kulara. We overcome the redopind along the even slope, the ascent is along the amk-nole-nije rebo to the summit along the emame-provad even-dobam even-khon kru-minol 40°–45°. The descent is 6 as hand-held emy-re-ned and emparakhol veres redopyd and redobor kponovs. From the blockage on the pre-vine ekhakh to the veruin-kho 5-4 hours. The descent along the nylu nabse-na to Pokhno Taymazin 6-7 hours.

Recommendations for the climb

1. In the summer, epegm climb with a guide.
2. Kanuvem-benxoni composition of the group should not be aepanu-ni-buan-mkhs.
3. Dpu good weather, movement is better organized with ssoka reanuka Tana- eme and bu-od-os parno umpram, edepukhmts voskhazdenie with enych-em x povehe.
4. On the climb, there are khouxxi, redopydos, 5-4 red khpnoho and op. elakakh

South Sugan

South Sugan (3900 m) is a small peak in the ridge connecting the Sugan ridge with the Main ridge, between the peaks of Shtulu to the south and False Sugan to the north. The slopes of the peak are home to:

• Western glaciers - snowfields that feed the Akhsu river
• Eastern glaciers - snowfields that feed the Orsdon river Technically simple, heavily destroyed South Sugan is rarely visited by climbers (mainly during traverse with False Sugan). The only route was climbed on August 4, 1929, by L. Gasparotto, U. Vallepiano, K. Geron, G. Zinger.

47. South Sugan via the South ridge (combined route, 1B category of difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-20 people) to the tongue of the Doppakh glacier is described in route 46. From here, ascend the moraine to the tongue of the Doppakh glacier and cross it to the left in the direction of a small snow slope under the saddle of the South ridge of the South Sugan peak. After crossing the glacier, cross a small stream flowing from under the small hanging Soldier glacier, which is located under the saddle of the ridge connecting the peaks of South Sugan to the left and False Sugan to the right. Then traverse left - up the scree slopes of the southeastern slopes of the South Sugan peak, in the direction of a large snowfield under the saddle of the South ridge of the peak. Up the snowfield, straight up, then up the gentle ("live") rocks (insurance) - ascent of 50-60 m to the saddle of the South ridge of the South Sugan peak.

9. Tsukhgar­ty via the South­ern Counter­fort and East­ern Ridge (com­bi­ned route, 2A cat. dif., Fig. 2, 4). From the “Nakhashbi­ta” meadow (group of 4–8 peo­ple) up­wards to the left (north-east) along grassy slopes, then scree to the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier, which flows down from the Tsukhgar­ty massif be­tween its South­ern Ridge and South­ern Counter­fort. From here, straight up the snow slope with sim­ple rock out­crops (pro­tec­tion) of the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier. In the up­per part of the glacier, where it widens, turn right and:

• via sim­ple rock out­crops, al­ter­nat­ing with ice and snow slopes (pro­tec­tion)
• then via sim­ple rocks and scree as­cend to the South­ern Counter­fort. Here, turn left and via sim­ple rocks and scree of the long South­ern Counter­fort

Fig. 29 125. Bubis (4428 m) via the North-Eastern slope (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevices) approach the middle of the north-eastern ice and snow slope of Bubis along the glacier. From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund using a snow bridge, ascend the occasionally steep ice and snow slope (many open and closed crevices) between two groups of ice falls located to the left and right of the middle part of the slope, in the direction of the saddle of the massif between the summit of Bubis on the right and a snow dome on the left - until reaching the main ridge of the summit. Depending on the condition of the slope, it is possible to ascend to the main ridge of the summit to the left of the snow dome. On the south-eastern ridge of the summit, turn right and ascend along a simple, gently sloping, wide, occasionally narrow, long ice and snow ridge (cornices), then along simple, ruined rocks to the summit of Bubis. Duration:

• From the initial bivouac on the plateau: 4-6 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Features:

V. Burjula via Eastern Edge, 4A cat. diff.

R0–R2 100 m 35° 2 R2–R4 120 m 40° 3 R4–R6 100 m 40–45° 3 R6–R8 150 m 45–50° 4 R8 180 m 40° 3

Report on the First Ascent to the Peak 3428 m via the Northwest Ridge, Presumably Category 1B, by the Team of the "Freeline" Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club from Essentuki, July 14-15, 2018

Climbing Report Form