Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy Ridge, Kharimta gorge, section 6.1.
2. Doktor Peak, 2627 m, via the North Ridge.
3. Proposed category 2A, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Height difference 400 m, length 800 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 6 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak Dinosaur, 2221 m, from pass Pikantny.
4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 421 m, length 1400 m, average slope 20°.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - combined 2. Ascent region - Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Middle Talgar gorge 3. Peaks RAPATAK, 4050 m., north-eastern counterfort 4. Presumed difficulty category - 3A. 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 750 m.
• length of sections with 5th difficulty category - none
• average steepness - 30

6. Pitons driven:

Description of Mayakovsky Route, Cat. Difficulty, via the Ridge

To the north of Peak Ordzhonikidze in the Maly-Almaty spur system, the beautiful and soaring Peak Mayakovsky rises. The ascent begins from the Mynzhilki weather station. After crossing the terminal and lateral moraines of the Tuyuk-Su glacier in the direction of the northwest lateral ridge of Peak Ordzhonikidze, and 50 m before reaching the ridge, turn left. Ascend via a steep scree to the terminal part of the Western Ordzhonikidze glacier, then follow it to the ice fall. Bypass it on the right and ascend via scree at the foot of the western lateral ridge of Peak Mayakovsky, continuing to the last ridge of rocks descending from the summit. From here, ascend to the western ridge of the summit via broken, easy rocks or, further to the right, via a couloir filled with medium and fine scree. The path from the Mynzhilki weather station to the foot of the couloir takes:

• 3–4 hours Having ascended to the ridge, turn right and approach the main northern ridge of the summit. Move along its eastern side for 15–18 m. Traverse along a terrace, which is interrupted by an outer corner and leads to a narrow, almost vertical couloir, turning into a chimney with a cork in its upper part. This section of the route requires careful piton belay. From the exit of the chimney, traverse left and, after 5–6 m, ascend along the wall to a platform in front of a smooth 5-meter wall with a narrow crack. Overcome the second wall via this crack, and then exit to an inclined platform with loose rocks (be cautious!). Above the platform stands a gendarme; it is bypassed on the left via an inclined ledge. Then ascend via a sheer inner corner to the rocky tower of the pre-summit. The rocks are heavily broken.

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar gorge 3. Talgar, via the Western wall from the Kroshka glacier 4. 5 km/h 5. Elevation difference: 180 m, length — 1400 m Length of 5 km/h sections. 6. Pitons driven rock belay anchors ice 66⁄8 0⁄0 85⁄8 3⁄0 7. Team's walking hours: 24 h; days 2.

Tur (4350 m)

Traverse from southwest to east — category 2B (Fig. 2)

From the initial bivouac located near the terminal moraine of the Levyy Kaskelen glacier, head north towards the summit, which is clearly visible. Initially, it's convenient to follow the stream flowing from the glacier. After ascending the first moraine step, reach a small moraine lake and from there, traverse the fine and medium-sized, densely packed talus, interspersed with snowfields, to the depression in the western ridge of Tur peak. Fig. 2. After ascending the second moraine step, move to its lateral ridges, keeping close to the ridge leading from Tur peak. Continue moving along the moraine and then onto the glacier. After 700–800 m, the foot of the Burkut-tas pass (3900 m) is reached. The ascent to the pass via a steep (up to 50°) snowfield, spanning 300–500 m, leads under a cornice. Carefully cutting through it, exit onto the pass saddle. The journey from the bivouac to the pass takes 3–4 hours. From the pass, ascend to the summit via the southwest ridge. Initially, the rocks are of moderate difficulty (belaying is mandatory), with a significant drop on the right side. After 60–70 m of progress, the path is blocked by an 80-meter gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Characteristics of the passage:

• The number of holds is limited
• Belaying is via pitons (caution!)

Route Description.

The approach path is the same as to the summit of Pogrebetsky. Moving along the middle of the Tuyuksu glacier and rounding the northwest ridge of the eponymous peak, turn left towards the foot of a large couloir located at the junction of the northwest ridge of Tuyuksu peak and the main ridge, running from Tuyuksu pass to the summit. The couloir is quite long, its lateral branches are framed by rocks, and it is hazardous due to rockfall. It is recommended to pass through it early in the morning, sticking to the left side and using rock outcrops for cover. Upon reaching the ridge, turn left and ascend to the summit via easy, heavily broken rocks. Descent:

• It is safer via Tuyuksu pass. Time required for the ascent: 7–8 hours.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from bivouac at 4:00 AM.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — Technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ala-Archa gorge, Adygene gorge, Teztor tract.
3. Peak, route: First ascent to the peak "Svyataya Ekaterina" via the southern slope.
4. Estimated complexity category — 1B.
5. Height difference — 900 m.
6. Total route length — 4500 m.
7. Crucial section length — 1000 m. 1B complexity category.
8. Number of travel hours — 8 hours.
9. Leader — Zusik M.V.

Ascent Passport

Climb Class Climb Region Peak, its height Ascent Route Difficulty Category (approximate) Height Difference Average Steepness Driven Kryachev's:

• rock
• ice
• bolt anchors Laid закладок Number of walking hours Number of overnight stays

Participants:

1. Nagovitsina Elena Yulyevna
2. Zueva Tamara Aleksandrovna

5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members: